North Rim Part 1 - Dedication

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Grand Canyon - North Rim - Part 1

This is one of my favorite National Parks (NP) and the North Rim in particular. The main reason is there are fewer people, fewer attractions (1), fewer hotels (1), fewer restaurants (1), fewer tour buses, and more emphasis on the canyon. It is at least 8,000 feet throughout the north rim which results in more cold weather, more snow, and being shutdown from the end of October until May/June depending on snow depth. Most people visit the South Rim since it is more developed with easier access from Williams and Flagstaff, AZ along I-40.

Betty and I visited the both rims many time either camping or hotel/motel/lodge. We were here with my sister once at each rim (OK I threaten them to go north or we would be with them their entire 3 weeks). In late August on the north rim, we had cabins next to each other and spent virtually all our time together. We had experiences in those few days we still talk about.

I believe it was the second day when Paul, Leslee, Drew (teen son) and myself were going to hike the Kaibab trail for few miles and return. Chelsea (number 1 teen daughter) insisted on riding the mules, however she needed to be accompanied by an adult. Betty had looked forward to everybody being gone to relax, read, and nap. Chelsea needing an adult went into full blown teen whine and manipulation mode. Betty finally relented and her day changed as reading is difficult on the back of a mule, while relaxing and napping were definitely out.

So the hikers started off on our adventure about noon. It was a hot and the normal single digit humidity day. The 3 newbie hikers did not realize the mules used the Kaibab trail also. There are two things mules do well 1. eat and drink 2. expel those contents when and wherever they happen to be. Drew found it disgusting to hike through the mule residue not only from today, but for the entire season. Aromatic, slushy, and slippery does not come close to describing the trail. Initially, Drew bypassed those odorous areas climbing up and around, but with my prodding to embrace the trail and spending more time and energy finding ways around those spots, Drew finally stayed on the trail and really broke in his boots.

The mule riders were coming down the same trail at 1:00 with other riders and the guide. This should have been mentioned sooner, but when you hike from the rim of a canyon, there is only one way to go - down. Another factor in play is the temperature goes up (hotter) the further down you go. Us hikers reached a bridge (unknown name), where I started using the I could go further, but we are almost out of water along with other ploys such as this is really difficult on young teen Drew (not really, but anything to get turned around). Finally all agreed that Drew and I should start back up. Paul and Leslee hand-in-hand continued down the trail as if they were 10 years younger.

As Drew and I reached the upper part of the trail, we met the 2 mulers with only a guide. Chelsea was grinning and having a defining experience. Betty had a forced grin with upturned eyes as if saying what happened to my day and why is it always me. I of course said something like “great job Bets” or “you look great up there” dripping in sarcasm and received a “I'll get even” look and sneer.

Drew and I reached the top, but the car was locked and we had no key (dumb). We could wait for everyone to return or walk back to the lodge. Walk back was the decision and off we went. Upon reaching the campground turn-off I said lets get some cold drinks and snacks. After loading up, I said I know a shortcut and Drew made the mistake of believing me. About 45 minutes later we got back and Drew's trust level hit bottom.

Finally the other hikers and mulers returned with death defying story. Earlier in the week, Paul had a bit of a cold and must not have fully recovered as their continued hike and return up had sapped his strength and threw his electrolytes out of balance. As he and Leslee reached the point to begin the steepest part of the trail, Paul said he could go no further and was on the verge of passing out. The mulers and their guide were also turning around. The guide saw Paul was in trouble, reached into her bag of tricks, produced a packet of Gook-in-aid (electrolyte replenishment), and insisted Paul drink it. Within minutes he was back to his old self and completed the hike.

A great story we always tell and of course with each telling there are arguments of what happened and how it turned out. This visit to the North Rim was a most memorable for the Bollea's, but Betty and I had unbelievable experiences with every visit.

One such experience occurred at Cape Royal. After a 20+ mile twisting drive, we arrived at the parking lot. Now I was chomping at the bit (I know hard to believe) to get out there and start snapping. Knowing it was best to make this a team/we effort, I was hopping from one foot to the other, as Betty completed her bathroom break and got a fresh Pepsi. Finally we began and none to soon as I was in the midst of “deprived photographer syndrome”. We started down the trail, but stopped to read about this bush and that tree. Betty was reading and I was having an anxiety attack. We finally arrived at a turnout to a place called Angel's Window. I snapped from various angles and locations and continued on. The next turnout was a trail atop Angel's Window formation which provided great shots of the canyon and the Colorado River. I was thrilled and kept waiting for Betty to catch up, but she didn't, she was still at Angel's Window.

So from this location Randy and I made our dedication. Randy had brought a bundle of sage to burn in an albacore shell and feathers to fan the smoke. This ritual was to purify the area giving it positive energy. The wind was blowing to hard to light the sage, so we sat next to each other on the canyons edge and started the dedication:

Betty. We have been here many times and had many experiences most of them great. Remember all the Sunrises you missed, all the Sunsets I made you attend, the high times with the Bolleas, your mule ride, walking to Bright Angel Point, and taking lightning photos from the lodge. Remember the morning in June driving into the park gate surrounded by meadows filled with wild flowers and deer grazing among them. But the moment that transcends them all was here at Angel's Window. Remember I went ahead on the trail, but you did not follow. I came back to find you here as you sat looking through Angel's Window as the mighty Colorado continued to cut this magnificent canyon. In those moments you saw not only the soul of the canyon, but also the spirit of your own appreciation of the natural beauty around us - truly where “the whole is greater than the sum of its parts”. So I dedicate this spot to all those who come after that they be able to bridge their inner soul with the canyons soul and understand the totality of the experience as you did so many years ago.

Randy and I sat on the edge of the canyon in solitude filled with emotion and each experienced Betty's presence and touch. Her son and the love of her life bound in a few moments of internal connection never before experienced. Randy broke off some of the sage and cast it on the winds and the energy was indeed positive. A promise was made to return to re-experience these moments and make future dedication on this spot to expand the positive energy.

Randy left later on the way home and I spent the rest of the day embracing the day, the canyon, and Betty's presence. KC and I photographed, walked, relaxed, and enjoyed our day. Part 2 will be published soon. The difficulty is wading through the 100 or so photos in a critical manner to select those for Blog inclusion.

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Photos

Meadows in Fall
Sample of the many meadows along the road to the North Rim

Canyon View - Angel'Window
View from atop Angel's Window formation looking southeast

Dedication Site
From atop Angel's Window formation

Pre sunset
View from dedication site before sunset