A Brief Tour of US history from Jefferson to the Civil War to the Civil Rights Movement Day 5


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October 5th 2012
Published: January 18th 2013
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After another sweet Chanticleer Inn and B&Bbreakfast of waffles, whipped cream, fresh fruit, coffee and assorted breads we waddled out of the inn to begin our trip to Montgomery, AL.

Montgomery Alabama.

I had hoped to have time to explore Birmingham on our way south but on our tight schedule I would have had to give up something in Montgomery and there was already so much to see in a day and a half that I decided we should focus our energies in Montgomery instead. I am glad we did! We arrived just in time to tour the F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald Museum before it closed. I had no idea that Zelda was a very talented and troubled young woman. F. Scott fell in love with her at an early age and after two years of being rebuked, he managed to get the beautiful Zelda to marry him. Thus began their short but tumultuous marriage that ended in early death for Scott (he died at the age of 44 of a heart attack likely due to his heavy drinking and stress with Zelda.) Zelda was frequently committed in various mental institutions (Zelda was misdiagnosed with schizophrenia but by today’s thinking she was more likely was bipolar.) Zelda was an accomplished artist and writer and many of Zelda's paintings (both original works and copies) hang on the walls of this Montgomery home in Zelda's home town. The Fitzgeralds traveled often, especially to Europe, and lived beyond their means adding stress to their fragile relationship. I did see a definite influence of Georgia O'Keefe, Degas and Lautrec in Zelda’s art works, likely from her frequenting the art circles in Paris. Although Zelda and F Scott only lived in this rented home for close to 8 months, it is the only place that is dedicated in any significant way to the history and memory of this dynamic flapper couple. We learned a great deal about their lives from Michael McCreedy the knowledgeable director and docent of this museum. I left with a renewed interest in reading more of Fitzgerald's works especially his collection of short stories.

From the Civil War to the Civil Rights Movement:

After exploring the troubled histories of F Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, we drove into the center of town to take a free tour of the First White House of the Confederacy. The First White House is located across the street from the Alabama State Capitol and the Alabama State house. President Davis lived here with his wife until the Confederate Capitol moved to Richmond, VA. and many of Jefferson Davis' personal affects are still in the home.

We took an "almost free" tour ($2 each) on the Montgomery Trolly Tour from the historic train station. Our trolly first drove past the Rosa Parks Museum before passing the Court Square Fountain at the end of Dexter Ave. If you stand facing the Capitol Building at the imposing Greek statue and fountain, on the left you can see the area where slaves were traded (a building now occupies this site.) Across the street from the former slave trading site is the Winter House where the telegram was sent that issued the order to fire on Fort Sumpter, beginning the Civil War. From the Court Street Statue you can look up the short distance of Dexter Ave to the Capitol Building. During the Civil War and the Civil Rights Movement that short street must have seemed very long to the seat of government that imposed its rules on so many who felt the unwelcome weight of its iron hand.

After the trolly we walked up to a bridge tower for a view of the town and the river. A never-ending train came rumbling through fascinating Dave as he waited for some time to finally see the caboose. We were hungry and it was late and as a result we ate way too much of the enormous plate of spicy ribs and slaw at the Dreamland BBQ that had been recommended by friends. It was good but not worth the indigestion afterwards. The dinner just did us in so we gave up any idea of walking through town and instead drove over to Hull Street to find our new digs and relax in our lovely room in the Lattice B&B. I had planned to enjoy the hot tub in the back yard by candlelight but we were so tired that instead we collapsed in the comfortable interior surroundings and began to unwind. As I sat and read by the window I heard the distant sound of a train rumbling on the tracks through town. Thankfully it was a distant noise making me glad I chose to stay here instead of a room in one of the hotels in the city near the train tracks.

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