And, back to Yucatan

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While in Playa del Carmen Chuck decided to get certified in Scuba diving. During his first open water dive he could not equalize (un-plug or pop) one of his ears. We went to a dive clinic to find out he had an ear infection and would need to wait a week before diving again. So, we were headed towards Merida for Carnaval and a bullfight. Along the way we made stops in Tihosuco to visit the Caste War Museum, Valladolid for an overnight, Balankanche Caves, and the ruins of Yaxuna.

Tihosuco is about an hour drive south of Valladolid, which is about half way between Merida and Cancun. The Caste War Museum, in Tihosuco, details the events of the Mayan uprising against the Spaniards and Ladinos in a long attempt to reclaim their land and lifestyle. Information at the museum is presented only in Spanish and Yucatec Maya, however the museum also houses a collection of artwork, photography, artifacts and documents regarding the war and local history. There is also a local teacher who provides lessons in the Yucatec Mayan language.

My own interpretation of the Caste War will be added to this blog entry after I return home in April.

We arrived to Valladolid on Thursday the 19th of February. Valladolid is a charming and authentic Mexican colonial town. Every time we have stopped in Valladolid there has always been something happening; music and dancing and this time the parade for Carnaval. The Valladolid Carnaval parade was almost entirely by local children all dressed up for the event. After the parade the groups of children performed dances in the zocalo (town square).

The following morning we walked to the Zaci Cenote (sink hole) and the Museum of San Roque, a block and a half east of the zocalo. This museum interprets local and regional (both Yucatecan and Mayan) history and culture through informational placards (only in Spanish), artifacts, and replica or model items and displays. After this we left Valladolid to make our way to Merida.

When in Valladolid we stay at the Maria de la Luz Hotel, across the street from the zocalo. Rooms at Maria de la Luz are just over $40 USD; there is parking, a pool, restaurant, breakfast buffet, cable television, air conditioning and hot water.

On the free road between Cancun and Merida, near Chichen Itza and Piste, are the Balankanche Caves. Guided tours are obligatory and available on the hour. Unlike most other caves, those of Balankanche are quite humid because there is no air ventilation and visitors are sure to be sweaty after a visit. Within the caves is a natural formation which resembles the Maya tree of life and an underground waterway that is so clear and calm it mirrors the cave to such an extent it is nearly impossible to distinguish between what is above and below the water line. There are also a collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts on display throughout the cave system.

A short drive (about ten minutes) from Piste is the archaeological zone of Yaxuna and a Mayan village of the same name. The ruins at Yaxuna were surprisingly extensive and obviously well cared for. There were about six structures, a plaza, and a ball court all partially excavated and in very good condition. One of the structures features a good number of carvings. We were the only visitors at the site, aside from three local boys, making for a very peaceful and undisturbed visit. Chances are good that anyone who decides to visit these ruins in the near future will have the same experience.

We had read that it is possible to stay in the village for complete immersion into Mayan life and culture as well as a guided tour of the nearby ruins, but since it was early enough in the day we decided against staying in the village and continued to Merida for Carnaval.

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Photos

Tihosuco Catholic Church
the damage was done during the war

Bug Broach
the jewelry is alive, it is a decorated bug, for wearing as a broach

Balankanche
waterway