Pyramid of the Magician

North America » Mexico » Yucatán » Uxmal
November 28th 2017

Published: December 1st 2017

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povertyjetset

El Pirámide

Imposing sight upon entry to the ruins, unique among structures in its curvature

Pirámide del Adivino is part of the Mayan ruins at Uxmal (OOSH-mahl) located in Yucatán sort of between Mérida, where I arrived last Monday, and Campeche. One name for the ruins is thought to be "three times built" while another possible translation is "what is to come, the future." Either way, legend has it that the pyramid was built in only one night by the Mayan god Itzamna. Not too shabby...

$US ≈ 19 Mexican pesos ($M)

Mérida

I'm fairly certain that when I last visited Mérida in 2014 I did not have any motivation whatsoever to visit any of these places. Not surprising since it was very close to the end of 2 years of continuous travel around the world. This time I managed to pack in quite a bit in a few days.

It's a great city to be based for checking out all these places and then some, lots of accommodation options for all budgets and countless places to eat or just chillax.

Accommodation and food Stayed in a cramped dorm at Hostal Zócalo for the absurdly low price of $M150 including a great breakfast. Wifi is good, drinking water & towels provided. Hot water

Atop Templo Mayor

Quadrangle & Pyramid off in the distance

for the shower is very spotty but the temps in town were broiling so not a huge deal. Also have a variety of private rooms, popular place. So many places to eat nearby, took a couple almuerzos at the frenetic Mercado San Benito, great lemonades.

Transport There are terminals and colectivo staging areas scattered all over the city but most travelers will use only the adjacent 1^st & 2^nd class terminals, a.k.a., CAME & TAME, along with the terminal del centro for Izamal and most 2^nd class services to Valladolid. First class services to Valladolid (~$M200 & 2¼ hours) leave regularly from CAME and there is a convenient 09:30 (also 21:30) departure from TAME for $M120 but only Fri-Tue.

Inside TAME there is a small tourist info kiosk alternately staffed by 2 people who are immensely helpful with the indecipherable colectivo routes. The man in the afternoon spoke English.

If interested in visiting the harder to reach ruins near Uxmal, Oriente runs a service on Sundays for only $M63 (entrance fees extra) stopping at 4 or 5 smaller sites on the Ruta Puuc for ~35 min a pop before spending 2 hours at Uxmal. Dep TAME 08:00,

From Templo Mayor

Looking down the steep steps with an unflappable iguana working on his tan

dep Uxmal 15:00 for Mérida. Great deal.

Uxmal Buses leave TAME several times a day but best for a day trip is to catch the 09:05 departure and return ~12:35 which leaves about 2 hours for the ruins. Going to Uxmal was $M65 but coming back was $M60, payable to the driver, or get an open return ticket in Mérida. Can also continue to Campeche for $M100 or so from Uxmal taking ~3.5 hours and terminating close enough to the center to walk. There's a left luggage service at Uxmal, no extra charge, super convenient if stopping here between Campeche & Mérida.

Entrance to the site is $M223, pretty steep considering the size compared to a lot of other places I've been in Mexico, but there's been much excavation and the ruins are in good shape. Unfortunately can not climb the Pyramid of the Magician. There's also a sound & light show for an extra $M100, starts ~7pm and goes for almost an hour.

Dzibilchaltún and Progreso Can be combined on a day trip, tricky on public transport but doable. Cenote Xlacah among the ruins not to be missed. Nice museum too with the 7 stone dolls

Cuadrángulo de las Monjas

Quandrangle of the Nuns as named by the Spanish

found in Templo de las Siete Muñecas.

I met other backpackers with a car so went with them for a day trip with a stop in sleepy Chelem for a late lunch. Otherwise, catch a colectivo for Chablekal on Calle 61 a couple of blocks behind the cathedral, $M8. Once there walk ~3km to the ruins or negotiate a moto-taxi. Entry is $M142, parking $M20. From the ruins out to the main highway for Progreso is ~5km. May be able to cadge a lift in the parking lot or grab another moto-taxi. Wait at the bus stop for one of the frequent buses headed to Progreso. Buses for Progreso have their own small terminal a few blocks south of the zócalo and they run a couple-three buses a day direct to Dzibilchaltún.

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