Day 12 Uxmal Maya archaeological site & Merida

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After a brief walk last night around the walled town of Campeche we did a similar walking tour this morning. The difference was stark as the evening was alive with atmosphere but still asleep early before we needed to leave.

The town sits on the Atlantic coast with beautifully restored colonial mansions and official buildings inside the wall. Fortified ramparts built as a defensive effort against pirate attacks overlook the narrow cobblestone streets. The town is considered the most complete fortified city in Mexico.

Outside the walls was a modern wealthy town, a thriving market, boardwalks and old fishing docks. We could have spent more time here.

Today was hot (35c) with a shorter trip of 175 km’s to Merida firstly visiting the Uxmal (pronounced Osmal) Mayan ruins considered the most refined of all Mayan architecture. The main structures included the Magician Pyramid, the Quadrangle of the Nuns, the Governor’s palace and the ballgame court.

The site is considered important due to fine decoration at the top of each structure (known as Pucc style) . As the whole surrounding landscape is completely flat it was not necessary to decorate below the top as it could not be seen. In fact much of these lower levels had collapsed & has been extensively renovated only recently. Fortunately as the main structures were ceremonial only they did not have internal rooms or tombs & instead were filled with rubble so the tops remained intact as the lower outside stones collapsed.

Much of the decoration refers to the water God Chaac as the surrounding land is so flat there is no natural rivers or dams & survival depended completely on rain. Two versions of Chaac are seen in the decoration. One with a hook to the sky meaning praying for rain & the other with a hook to the ground meaning its already rained.

We then proceed to Merida, “The White City,” due to the predominance of whitewashed buildings. The city is large (2 mil) & wealthy. One of the main streets, Montejo Avenue, is said to be based on the Champs-Elysees but you would need a lot of imagination to see it. The Zocolo square is typical of every Spanish empire town being surrounded by grand buildings and amenities.

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Photos

Campeche street at night
With bronze of Henry Morgan who went from notorious pirate to a Caribbean Governor as reward for the wealth he brought to Britain.