Another Urbane Mexico

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Although it is only just over a 2 hour bus ride away, and in the same state, the city of veracruz seems like a different country, and my afternoon on the beach yesterday seems like another time altogether. I am in Jalapa or Xalapa (it is spelled both ways - nationally and internationally) which is a city of about 1/2 million and the capitol of the state of verzcruz. it is in the mountains (just entering them) stands at about 1400 metres in elevation as compared to the city of veracruz which is right on the gulf of mexico. it has a very different feel here - more urbane, bourgeois, cultured, and more "northern" - the climate is cooler here due to the elevation and the flora seems more familiar. The university is also here.

But back to yesterday - went back to the beach I had found the other day - the furthest beach out in Boca Rio, almost by the river, and fairly low key - not too busy and mainly families with kids playing in the waves and a few teenagers - not a tourist mecca. Had briefly stopped at the beach by the big mall (I had to pee and knew that there would be a bathroom in the foodcourt), where the bigger resorts are. Got calm watching the waves and the kids playing and thankfully it got cloudy - the lifeguard was walking up and down the beach making sure people were not too far out (like at waist level). I wondered if there was danger - and later he sat down and talked to me - one of those dictionary conversations - where you keep on having to pick out the word you want - he said most mexicans dont know how to swim - he was young and cute and trying to pick me up but.... too young.

This morning I awoke listening to the traffic and a tv blare from one of the other rooms (I did not have tv cause at most budget hotels you need to pay extra for a room with a TV as you do for a room with air conditionning (never had that either). The noise was getting to me although the square had been too peaceful the night before. Then I thought, before I left I had been wanting a more lively culture, one not so sedate, where people talk and laugh on the street, where all is not controlled, where there is life lived on the streets and this is what it is (so go figure) - but at the same time I also like quiet too.

The bus took a while to get out of veracruz passing what I gather are working class neighbourhonds, and big box stores and cinemas and malls, and then finally suburban townhouse developments - one older it seems in pastel colours, and another newer all white boxes and some semi-detached - as with new developments not much green, just identcal boxes, and up on a small hill, bigger detached boxy homes. The route to Jalapa is on a divided toll highway (tolls are relatively steep here), climbing up, my ears popped though did not seem mountainous, not many villages, many trees without leaves in the dry season. Coming into the city, a suburban stop outside a big box mall, and 4-6 lane divided streets and lotsa traffic. The bus depot a couple of km outside the centre, huge with places to east, many platforms, crowded - but did not seem as uptight as veracruz where you passed though metal detector - buses between the 2 cities run every 20-30 minutes and mine was almost full. The traffic continues into town (took a cab) - and I am now convinced that Montreal drivers are totally sane.

Here more urbane - as always loved it at first, now not as sure -culture, ate a cheap good lunch in a vegetarian restaurant, are museums, galleries, theatre, cinema (good films), old historic buildings (protest outside governors buildings) - alot free, more bourgeois - less clinging cheap clothing, a good treed square with view of mountains, few tourists - definately few gringos, good modest restos of various cuisines etc. Another park with a path around a small like and the stall selling things have the areas labelled, and not being shouted at to buy. a nature park somewhere, Still is more serene and people are not smiling as much, the cathedral here has chandeliers, and posters for yoga, reiki, african dance abound- and the energy seems more constrained and at times more prickly as often does in canadian more bourgeois areas - a keep away type of feel or a smugness of sorts. Still at the same time am drawn to these places too - are prettier, nicer, more cultured - still this is a real city where centre is truly lived in. Tommorow off to the anthropology museum which is supposed to be excellent.

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