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Published: November 21st 2019
It’s my third time in Tulum; not because I love it so much that I have absolutely to come back once again but because Daria has never been, Enrico had great memories from the last time he went and I have to admit that Tulum has a nice beach even if I never experienced nice calm water like in Isla Mujeres. Here in Tulum I always enjoy the waves, but I love calm relaxing sea.
We checked in to the hotel, actually fresh air conditioned cabañas on the beach, very pretty place that’s well kept, clean and quite posh. Every cabaña has a chaise longue and hammock on the patio surrounded by tropical plants.
The first time I came to Tulum I liked it though it was definitely one of the most touristy places I had visited in Mexico. The second time I went to visit a friend Stefy who was working here, I just stayed 2 nights, it was already too touristic for my taste and thought I will never come back but eventually I did. This third time (and probably final time) was still fun and with different experiences. We went running bare
feet on the beach every day, Daria loved it especially, big pelicans in the sky, in the top of palm trees, and over the ocean looking for fish to catch.
The food was average and double the Mexican price, all done for Gringos. Poor Gringos they never have the chance to experience Mexico because Mexicans set things for them to be comfortable with American standard but especially food wise, very bad quality. They seemed to enjoy themselves anyway, because here at the beach side in Tulum it’s at least 10 years that they are being conned with various scams but nobody complains. Everyone seems to go to the “best” Italian restaurant Posada Margherita that costs $100 minimum...
Obviously we didn’t go to the Italian place that locals told us is highly overrated, when we are in Mexico we want to eat like Mexicans, and so after getting conned at Mateo’s (crap Mexican food for tourists) a friend of Michelle’s recommended us the best places where to eat fish and mariscos. El Capitan and El Camello, El Capitan has a nice huge cabaña roof quite nicely done so the food wasn’t as good as El
Camello. I say that because in Mexico if you want the best food you have to accept to eat in a dirty, not comfortable looking environment surrounded by many busy people and sometimes also dogs and cats too. That’s exactly what El Camello had to offer - best fish soup, tacos de Camarones or the pulpo ones and Cevices of every kind. Daria got a “small” (aka massive) ceviche de camarones, was good for three people, and was amazingly good. We literally stuffed our faces with fish. They have a pescaderia (fish monger) attached to the restaurant where every 15 minutes arrives fishermen bringing what they got from the sea. In the time we were there arrived people with a huge Barracuda, people with huge octopuses and someone else brought enormous fish (don t know what type) and they started to cut the 5kgs fillets out. The place was busy, everybody having this fish and Mariscos soup, we understood what to get straightaway. Yummie!!
Tulum is cool because it’s the only place (that we know of) that has Mayan ruins overlooking the ocean. We went with Daria and Michelle as Enrico was ill. While the ruins were
one attraction, maybe the best attraction was the huge iguanas that chill on the ruins and eat apples that tourists give them. I was also a big attraction at the exit of the park when I sat down to eat my tamal...suddenly a whole army of coati rodents (a bit like skunks) came over to scavenge for my leftovers. One was very persistent and event came up on the bench to get a scrap of food. We liked them. Tulum is also famous to have many Cenotes in the area, some of the most famous are here and they have became Gringo attractions as well, so they became expensive, and full of tourists that want to tan their pale skins, we avoided those ones and went to a couple that are bit less exploited - Escondito y Cristal. They weren’t the ones Daria likes (the claustrophobic entrance by a small hole in the ground), they were more like crystal water ponds in the jungle.
The night before going to the cenotes, we met up with Dohn and his friend Yngve from Sweden; they come to Tulum directly from London to enjoy the beach, the cool spa and
the exclusive place Tulum has to offer. It was a great coincidence that we were there at the same time and so we asked Dohn and Yngve to join us the next day for Cenotes. We picked them up from their posh resort in our 7 seater and went to the first cenote, where as soon as we payed the entrance fee and start walking, a strange little pig kind of animal crossed the path. We asked the name of the animal around, unfortunately it disappeared so quickly that we couldn’t take our camera out to take a pic. So locals give us some possible names but we didn’t remember any. The second cenotes was the Escondito one, (which means “hidden”) just few people there, some with all the scuba equipment because it’s one where it’s possible to explore the twists and turns of the canals. I brought out my snorkelling gear and I had a look at the underwater little world down there, I saw even a huge fish that would have been good for the bbq. We used the GoPro and took some underwater shots and pics. We’ve yet to see them but I’m sure some will be
The whole time we were in Tulum we were all desperate to eat some fresh lobster but we didn’t want to eat it in Tulum itself so we decided to drive into the biosphere reserve at the end of the beach hotel road 40km away from the resorts. There is this small fisherman village called Punta Allen a place where people come to explore the Laguna and snorkel with the manitou, also called sea cows because of their size and the fact that until some years ago, they were hunted for their tasty meat. We arrived just before dusk so no Laguna exploring and snorkel, but we came here mainly because we were told that in this place you can eat fresh lobsters at cheap price. Cheap lobsters because they fish them here and also because the restaurants here are more fisherman shacks that restaurant. So we went to the only open shacks where Benjamin welcomed us to his place, absolutely the dirtiest place we eat so far but lobsters and beers were fresh. We had a fun evening, eating, drinking, laughing in the heat and sharing stories about London, Stockholm, Manila where Dohn is
from and our experience of Tulum. This was definitely the most un-Tulum like place we visited and the best part of it. Daria said the drive down to the end of the Punta felt like the drive down to Key West with her parents that they never made in the end because it took too long! These 40kms were long too - maybe it took 1.5 hours to get to the end of the world but it was an amazing desolate and quiet drive away from the traffic jams of Tulum.
On the road back we saw some fauna, probably some pumas too but they were quick and in the dark we couldn’t see more than a silouhette with a long curved tail. We also saw so many crabs and herons. We understood that the herons were hunting the crabs that were crossing the road. But where we meet the crabs there were no herons and vice versa. The crabs were different sizes, some of them massive maybe 40cm wide and quite fast. We had a nice evening that finished back in Tulum town for a good mezcal and a midnight walk on the moonlit beach as
we were approaching full moon. So many stars out there...
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