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Published: August 7th 2002
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Overnight in Zipolite I had been eaten alive, I'm unsure whether it was the fleas from the dogs, or mosquitoes... I think it was a combination of both. The ironic thing was that if I had not been as pissed I would have noticed the mosquito net over the bed and used it. Anyway - enough beach already, a trip to San Cristobal scene of historic Hispanic architecture and near the fantastic Mayan Ruins of Planque was needed. San Cristobal is also on the way to Guatemala.
We waited for a collectivo - small vans that run regularly to Potchutla, well at least according to Lonely Planet. After about 45 mins we gave up - had breakfast at the hotel - which took 45mins to be served and then got another taxi - 60 pesos between three - now that's savvy.
Arriving at Pochutla we discovered that all the buses to San Cristobal were booked for two days. Tim decided that with only 6 days until he had to be back at Mexico city he would make his way to Peubla instead... Reena and I opted for Oaxaca and then onwards. Tim tried to get a bus to Puebla,
booked for the next 3 days. So onwards to Oaxaca. The journey to Oaxaca through the mountains was incredibly scenic. Clouds billowed up from the low lands caught the sunlight and reflected it over the jungle in the hills bellow. I was thankful to be on a second class coach as I could open the windows and attempt to take a photo of the scene.
On arrival at Oaxaca at just after 9pm, I spotted a bus to Tuxtla - at 9pm - damn it more rushing, said an incredibly rushed goodbye to Tim, one day I will met him in Manchester and go out for the worlds best kebab. He's been around it so I won't argue about it with him until I have done the same. Reena and I jumped on the overnight bus, no seats. Don't worry said the conductor - half an hour and some people get off. He made a really old woman stand up so we could have a seat in the meantime. I refused the seat a got the old woman to sit back down again... it all seemed the wrong way around. Our packs were in the isle, no seats, no light and we were standing, possibly for 11 hours. After about hour and a half some people did get off and we got seats on the back row. The heat from the engine was incredible, cooking us slowly from the legs upwards. At 3am we stopped to use toilets, lost our seats... and collapsed on the packs... it was more comfortable than the seats, managed to sleep sitting back to back with Reena on a rucksack. At 5am some more people got off the bus... we got seats... nice seats. Ones which reclined and didn't cook the occupant, finally slept to Tuxtla. In Tuxtla we met a Scottish guy who was doing some voluntary work in the mountains. He bought us some water - and said that you can't say you've never been bought a drink by a Scotsman now. He'd been travelling and working away from home for twenty three years. Managed to get a really nice first class bus for 30 pesos for the last bit of the journey to San Cristobal.
I have so many photos that I will, add to this site soon... things are so rushed right now. Anyways ... more later - with photos.
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