Thieving Bastards

---

---

After writing the two blog entries about Cuba and making the video about our casa particular, we were all feeling great about life and then we discovered that some, but not all of the cash had been taken from our wallet and the only people who could have done that were the owners of our place. So, we confronted them about it and ended up spending half a day at the police station. The police clearly suspect them, but I don’t think anything will be done about it. So, we move on and try to put it behind us.

A few days later we are on a crowded subway train in Mexico City. I am standing near the door when there is a sudden push from behind me. Are people trying to get off the train??? No, I feel a hand go into my front pocket and take my phone. I can’t figure out who took it as everyone disperses immediately and for the second time in three days we have been robbed. We can’t believe it. This has happened too often over the years and we feel like we take appropriate precautions. Whilst the feeling really sucks, we can get over it and continue with our adventure. But I am glad to be out of Mexico City now.

The huge city is not all bad though. The population of Australia fit in the Districto Federal and there is a lot to see and do. We visited Xochimilco, once the food bowl of the Aztec empire and still a canal system is used for relaxing boat rides past food and drink vendors. The market is very good too, with mouth-watering tacos, roast chicken, juices and fruit. One night we went to the wrestling, “Lucha Libre”, and saw a great show … I mean sporting spectacle. The performers … rather the athletes come in various shapes and sizes (including a little kid, about grade 2) from super fit to, um … not, and they go for it like the guys in WWF. It is very family friendly, with lots of kids and most of the actors … or should I say competitors wear masks to go with their costume. My favourite move was done in most acts … I mean bouts, where one bounces off the ring towards the other and jumps, wrapping their legs around the standing one’s neck bringing them down to rapturous cheering. Off course most rules don’t apply in this ‘sport’ and often the ref goes off to have a cuppa during the middle of proceedings.

A good day trip from Mexico City is the town of Taxco. It is an old colonial town with a statue of Christ on top of a hill, like the one in Rio, but 40 feet tall compared to 120. The old streets and cathedral have been well preserved and there is a history of silver mining and crafting which continues to this day. They made a 120 kg statue to give the current Pope when he visited. But Frank said, “No thanks”. He probably already had one like it at home and it is on display in the cathedral. Taxco is also the VW Beetle capital of Mexico, which makes it the VW capital of the world. Most cars, including the taxis, are the 1960’s style Beetle and still going. A good advertisement for VW I think. In general, you see heaps of Beetles on Mexican roads.

I noticed that our hotel was on a slope and found out why. Most buildings in Mexico City are leaning because it was built on a swamp. It is sinking an inch per year. See proof below.

We caught a 7-hour day bus to Oaxaca (pronounced Wa-ha-ca). If it had been a 10-hour journey we would have taken a night bus as that would be perfect for Nathan to get a proper night’s sleep. It turned out that the driver was in a hurry and we got to Oaxaca in time for a swim and a Corona before a meal in a real restaurant. One that you sit down in with waiters and all. It made a change from the lovely and cheap tacos that I buy from street vendors. To top it off we had a fridge and nearby supermarket with all the stuff we wanted for breakfast. The food in Oaxaca is very good and so is the atmosphere in the restored old town. Very nice to stroll around on your way to an evening meal. There are nearby ruins from the ancient Zapotec civilization, one of the oldest in the Americas. It started in 500 BC and they spent the first 200 years cutting off the top of a tall mountain. Time well spent, as they then had a flat surface to put the necessary temples on top and a ball court for their game that was similar to the one played by Mayans on the other side of Mexico. One of the differences was that the Mayans gave the captain of the winning team the honour of being that week’s human sacrifice to the gods. There may have been a few cases of match fixing.

Oaxaca is also known for its mezcal. This is like tequila and I don't get the fascination with it. It needs to be mixed with something else to make it taste nice. We had a beautiful 9 course meal with matching drinks. (See photos below.) Most were matched with a type of mezcal. On a tour we visited a Mezcal distillery and had a taste of some of their best. It turns out that we actually like the añejo (aged) ones and also the ones mixed with whatever flavour like coffee.

We caught another bus, this time 9 and a half hours, so we went overnight and arrived in Mazunte by 7 AM. The place was still asleep, except for a few hippies with rolled mats under their arms on the way to their yoga classes. Mazunte is the most southerly point of Mexico. So you can look left and see beautiful sunrises (see the panorama example above) and later on look right for the sunset. In between those times lazing on the beach seems to be a good option. Nathan has made friends with some Canadian girls and I think this place will be a good stop for us.

And so begins our stint on the Pacific coast. As I wrap up this entry, I overhead other guests saying, "Just stay one more day. I promise we will leave the day after." I wonder how many times that promise has been made at this piece of paradise. I believe that our problems from the start of this piece are well behind us now.

---

Photos

Xochimilco
We saw large groups of locals on boats enjoying a weekend outing.

Not Gimp Masks
These are fear inducing Luche Libre Masks. And I can't wait for the next fancy dress party.

Taxco
The Cathedral in the main square.

Oaxaca
Most days were sunny and we felt like a rest so stayed 5 nights and made good use of the pool.

Mohawk
Nathan had wanted one for a while and we said, "Why not?".

Oaxaca at night
The old streets and buildings look best at sunset and night time.

Monte Alban
Some of the temples on the flattened mountain top.

Cactus flower
With an insect inside.

Cuilapan de Guerrero
About 450 years old and never completed. There was a service happening under the cupola, but the nave is roofless.

Tasty fish tacos
I'm sorry to say that we have become some of "those" people. The ones who take photos of their food. I hope this is only temporary. It is because the food is so well presented in most restaurants in Oaxaca. This meal cost only $17 Aust for three courses each. We drank lemon tea with our meal. (Casa Taviche)

Posh meal. 9 courses with matching drinks.
A lot more expensive than every other meal in Mexico. But we wanted to see how good it could be. It turned out to be really good food. The matching drinks were not as good. This is tomato, watermelon and other veg tartar. (El Destilado)

Octopus leg in squid ink, honey and chilli oil.
This was delicious. It was matched with a Mexican organic wine too. We have seen a few Mexican wines on menus now, but this was the first one we have tried. Jon liked it. (El Destilado)

Traditional Zapotec Dyes
We went to a place where they weaved fabric and showed us how the dyes were made. They use a blue bug by drying and crushing it to make a dark red powder. When mixed with water it is dark red. When lemon juice is added it goes bright red. When lime powder is added is goes bright purple. I was the guinea pig.

Petrified waterfalls
A limestone formation made of stalactites and stalagmites that were formed from a spring in the mountains. There are also these pools formed by the same process. Over 2 metres deep, we swam in them and they formed infinity pool type edges.

Our accommodation in Mazunte
We can hear the waves graphing from our beds!

New friends
We met this Canadian family today and will see them on the beach again.