Memorial Altars Y Ofrendas


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November 7th 2006
Published: November 7th 2006
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In the last few days the pace has slowed considerably. Downloading the 1000+ photographs, attempting to put some sort of order to them, and recuperating a bit. Saturday we tried to visit the Santa Domingo Culturel Center, connected to the church. Many of the groups of people from the zocalo, that were forced out when the police arrived, have relocated there. The Cultural Center was closed. I asked one of the men working there why it was closed. He replied " Security reasons, because of the crowds", not knowing if or when it would reopen. "But," I said, "these people are calm, peaceful." He shrugged his sholders as he hoisted a thick chain through the iron gate, and snapped closed a massive lock, "any minute." I forget what we did after that, but we returned yesterday, on our way to the Rufino Tamayo Museum. Busses now running, making it easier to get around. The first thing I noticed, even before you get to the open area aroung Santa Domingo de Guzman, is the noise: like the rushing of rapids in a river, or the buzzing of a hive. The squre is overflowing with peolple, talking, in pairs or groups. Many have a central figure who leads a sort of discussion. Everywhere. On the sides, folks sit reading the paper. Or newspapers are taped to a line so you can stand and read what's going on. A car pulls up and flips open the trunk to reveal two 5-gallon pots of steaming bow-tie pasta stew. A line forms, tortillas are passed out. At various locations amoungst the crowd are memorial altars to the people who have died, including Brad Will. Also documents detailing specific events: the University Radio fiasco last Friday, and the MegaMarch (called GigaMarch) here on Sunday. Images that stop you in your tracks. If you are not farmilar with these goings on, Indymedia and NarcoNews are good sources. There is too much to say that I choke up over, besides it has already been said better. Every day the newspaper starts with the number of days this struggle has been going on, the number of people dead, the number of people hurt, and the number of people missing. There are two sand-carpets: one is about 20 X 60 feet, the other fills a blocked street. They are quite messy, 'brut', but you get the point.
A mere five blocks to the zocalo. Normally we go in. I have a little routine of circling around, a serie of figure 8 loops to connect with whats going on, before exiting to Juarez Market to drink Tejate. I just couldn't go in. Then I sobbed for a block.
The Tamayo Museum was open. No other visitors but the two of us. It houses Rufino's jaw-dropping collection of pre-Columbian artifacts. Abstracted figures, mostly, in the simplest actions, intensly expressive. I was blown away.
Tomorrow I have to try to extend my visa which is short of five days. The next step is to get to some of the outlying towns and ruins. Waiting to hear the results of the voting in the states.....




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Delivery in front of the graphic arts library and gallery


9th November 2006

Hank, Tim, so glad to be seeing the blog - reassures me you're okay. The stories are great (maybe a novella???), and the photos are muy fabulouso. To think of you sobbing for all that's lost stabs at my heart. Miss you both!

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