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Teotichuacan
One pyramid we could climb that day DAY 2: SATURDAY
We didn't have to get up too early the next day- we left at 9 AM for the pyramids of Teotihuacan. It was a long trip, but when we got there I was amazed-- there were HUGE pyramids!! The two large ones are the
Sun and Moon pyramids, but in between them are mini temples, pyramids, and living quarters. It was for nobility and priests only, and some of the living quarters are intact- the rest has been rebuilt by archeologists. The designs were similar- lots of snakes, frogs, eagles, and jaguars. It was amazing to be standing somewhere and Victor would say "So this is where the priests prepared the sacrifices" or "This is where they played ball games"... not only that, but we were allowed to touch everything!! And climb them!! So wonderful to be able to experience the past in that way, which is totally what Mexicans are all about- a living, breathing past.
After climbing up and down some smaller monuments, we attempted the largest one- the temple of the moon. 235 steps, so steep and sharp that it wasn't hard to imagine Coaxhuyil being thrown down it and losing all her
The pyramid
On top of the pyramid (250 steep sharp steps) limbs to the sharp edges. At some points there was a rope rail to hold on to, but sometimes wasn't. I was exhausted- a lot like climbing up from Salmon Beach, but with razor sharp stones instead of soft wood! I rested at the middle platform, and eventually made it to the top. It was beautiful from the peak. There were people everywhere, and from all over. I was climbing most of the way with an older Scottish man, there were Americans, Canadians, Mexicans, Japanese, Chinese, so many people! We sat at the top for while taking pictures and enjoying the heights.
Eventually we decided to climb down again- after all, there was another pyramid to climb! We walked and walked to find the next one. Teotihuacan was a large city, Victor says its about 4 miles long, but it didn't feel that long to me. When the Aztecs were here, it would have been full of people going about their day, shopping for groceries, selling things, raising their children, warriors coming home or preparing to leave, priests doing ceremonies, and nobility ruling. The pyramid of the Sun was blocked off about half way up, so we weren't able
Don't Look Down!
The view from half way up to go all the way up, but it was enough! We climbed back down again-carefully- and found Victor and Mariana waiting to take us on another mini-hike to another museum, this one about Teotihuacan. Honestly, I was so tired from the climbing and walking, not to mention half-starved, it was hard to concentrate... mostly lots of pieces from the ancient city, paintings and jewelry that had been found.
We walked all the way back to the pyramids and had a yummy lunch of sopes and michelada (beer with chile powder, lime, and salt). By this time I had a nice sunburn- a big X on my back, and tons of new freckles.
We drove back towards DF and stopped in Coyoacan, a neighborhood where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera shared a home, which is now a museum. There were fascinating early sketches by Fridah, and the bedrooms were recreated to be when she lived there. We also saw her body cast that she painted. Its a beautiful house, even more beautiful than Diego's childhood home- and huge too! She was fascinated with the Juchitan women, and dressed like them so there were lots of clothing items. There were also strange
The other pyramid
Sitting on top of the pyramid giant painted skeletons with ribs sticking out too far and ridiculous faces. We weren't allowed photos, or if we were, not flash, and my camera doesn't do well without flash (blurry) so I have little pictures from there, but I bought three postcards- one by Frida, and two by Diego.
From the museum, we walked to the mercado of Coyocan, and had a fruit demonstration I can't tell you how many types of fruit I saw and tasted!! Mamer, guyanabana, mangos (didn't try), platanos de china, etc etc. I ate almost a whole guyanabana (sour sop) myself!!
We drove back tot he hotel, where I had messages waiting for me from Nayeli and Cristian... they wanted to meet me in the lobby at 9pm, so I showered off all the pyramid and market grime and dressed quickly... went downstairs and waited (met a tour group from Missouri) and in came 5 Mexicans! I recognized Nayeli and Cristian, plus Nayeli's mom and dad, and Cristian's dad. They informed me their other nephew/cousin was coming with his wife, too. We went next door to VIPS, an American restaurant. My stomach was in super hard knots and i felt like I was
Frida Kahlo Museum
her and Diego's house going to throw up, but they were all so nice and loving and gave me a big basket of candy!! So so sweet.
I met my friend Gabo and we walked across the street to where Chelsea, Hayley, Terra, and Aurora were having a beer, and talked for about ten more minutes. Later, Chelsea, Terra, Ben and I hung out in their room until about 1 am laughing and exchanging stories.
DAY THREE: SUNDAY
We left at about 10 AM for Tlatelolco, another site of ruins, this one devoted to Tlatelolco, the water god (my personal favorite... He's got these silly round eyes like goggles, a large crooked nose, and either fangs or a mustache, depending on the culture). This was also the site of the student massacre of 1968, and a church that is built like a fortress, so of course there was a lot to see. We sat by the memorial for a while and discussed the politics of Mexico during the student movement. I wish we could have visited UNAM! Then it was off to the museum of anthropology, which, while very fascinating,was at the end of a long line of museums, temples, pyramids, and important
sites and my brain was more fried than chicharron. I mostly wandered around in a daze waiting for lunch. The museum focused on the Aztecs, Mayans, Olmecs, Yanquiris, and pretty much every possible ethnic group in Mexico ever. Also, many of them had the same gods and mythology, which made it more confusing. I saw lots of jade and obsidian jewelry, lots of rock carvings, bones and remains, weapons and paintings, costumes and photos.
Finally it was time for food, and this time I got the buffet- frijoles, pollo, and a salad! A wonderful green salad, my first in almost 10 weeks. We didn't have much time to relax- I wanted to get outside and see the voladors. I forget what group they are from, but its an ancient ceremony done in many tribes, and the meaning differs- some its a death ceremony, others its for the harvest, but most agree they are imitating eagles. First they cut down a tall tree (I'm bad with heights, but just know its TALL, ok?) and have a ceremony thanking the tree, then replant it in the ground next to a sacrificed chicken. Then they put steps going up the tree, and
More voladors
almost to the ground make this platform at the top, where one man sits and beats a drum and the other four men swing from long ropes... oh, you just have to see it. Look at the pictures, ok? When I heard about it I thought it was going to be this fast, acrobatic circus like thing, but instead it was a slow, rhythimic spinning that almost hypnotized me. It was really beautiful.
Then it was back to the van and a long, uncomfortable car ride back. Once again I was so grumpy and tired of being around the same people in a small space for too long that I could not wait to get out. It was a weird ending to a weird but great weekend.
And now its back to homework!!
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