A hip place to be

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San Cristobal de Las Casas - A hip place to be - is the best way to describe this small town with the historic centre of old churches and buildings, cobble stone streets and squares, artisans markets, cafes, restos, bars, and surrounded by treed mountains. Not too hot and cool (about 10) at night. Perhaps a bit too hip - many hippy types - both richer mexicans with cars and laptops (and dreads or goatees), and other people so cool to be here it seems. In many ways it has the best of both worlds, and at one time I would have loved the scene, but now am not sure.

The artisans markets - one around church Santo Domingo, and another were wonderful, but like with everything it becomes more of the same - the blouses, skirts, ponchos, jewelry, blankets, and other cloths - stall after stall - a few made in India I noticed, and some with tie-dye patterns to appeal to the market - including probably the one blouse I bought, bargaining down the prices, proud of how little you paid for your cool clothing - becomes like another version of a mall. And the women and children on the streets selling the "guatemala" bracelets - in Cancun 10 pesos each - here 5 or 6 for 10, and little toys, and belts, and the boys with the mints, individual cigarettes and candy. A few beggars - either old or crippled - most others selling goods to the tourists.

The Mercado Municipal is a different scene - fewer of us gringos there and functioning choas as always - the fruits and veggies - now mangos seems to be ripe - stacked up in piles on baskets about 7 or so for 10 pesos, oranges, avacados, tomatos, also new here - carrots, potatos and beets - and the bins of shelled beans and around the markets some women shelling peas or beans - narrow crowded aisles, fruits and veggies intersperses with other household goods and daypacks and electronics - got "misplaced" there yesterday, with the twisting aisles - you dont always come out where you planned to - and into the inside where meat is sold, pucked chickens, hunks of meats hanging and lying on tables, and a few dogs roam around for the scraps. Vendors gather on the streets about the markets, covering the sidewalks, so people walk on and off the sidewalks and road, crowded with taxis and collectivos trying to make their way through the stands and the people. On other roads the collectivos gather, no place to walk, people coming and going.

Today I went to the Museum of Maya Medicine which lays just beyond the market away from the centre of town - cross a little stream - and scene changes - dirt roads off the main road, shacks of wood with some small concrete buildings being built, (though with power lines strung), the other San Cristobal. As always alot of children, the young ones strapped onto hips or backs (kinda like a mini hammock) cause strollers dont seem to exist here and you couldnt use them anyways with raised sidewalks that change levels, step up and down, give out. Even in the more tourist central area except at major intersections (all narrow 1 way roads) there are no stop signs.

Still it feels safe here despite the poverty and not due to the police presence (many who I am sure are the tourist police that exist in Central America to protect the tourists). Police - dressed in black with heavy black boots - not only carry the long black batons that I have seen elsewhere, but many have heavy vests and machine guns. I have to admit I feel uncomfortable when I see a group of them.

Not so sure about Guatemala anymore - am doubting I will go - so question is where to. Not sure if it is travel fatique setting in, or if it is my doubts about things to do, the language school scene (though I must lear Spanish as am getting tired of barely being able to communicate - checked out the schools here, but none appealed - all almost empty thus dont have many of the activities listed on their websites ), the gringo scene next to gripping poverty and the military presense which has increased as I entered the state of Chiapas, and is everpresent in Guatemala.

Talked to a few people here - one guy from New Mexico who has been in every city from Merida on - run into him on walking tours, musuems etc - Though we were both staying the same place in Palenque and didn{t see each other there - had wine with him and two girls from McGill last night at the hostel - felt so old compared to the girls on an extended spring break. Off on a day trip tommorow to some canyons and then probably the day after to some villages then....

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