Blogs from Greenland, North America


North America » Greenland » West Greenland September 24th 2018

"I am perfectly acquainted with the arctic, my knowledge having been acquired by thirty-three voyages to these regions, and by spending three winters there. I have become intimately associated with the Esquimaux and their habits and manners." William Penny 1809 - 1892 Nuuk. I am always surprised at how cosmopolitan Nuuk is! A city in Greenland complete with museums, malls, galleries, theatres and a brewery. The Greenlandic capital is built in a seemingly impossible fjord that twists and cuts its way inland to the ice sheet, a fjord system so complicated that map-makers must have nightmares. It’s quite astounding that there’s a functioning city in among the towering arctic peaks and wild coastline. I am only beginning to understand Nuuk (and Greenland for that matter). I am sure I once thought of Greenland as a far ... read more
Exploratory site

North America » Greenland » South Greenland August 17th 2018

The day began with a thick veil of fog engulfing our passage towards Prince Christian Sound. The fog was burning off and by the time that we went up to the Lido for breakfast, today was turning into an incredible sunny day. It was nothing like our last passage through the fog shrouded stony walled passages of Prince Christian Sound. I had worn just a light sweater up for breakfast, and Sharon suggested that I go on up to the Sports Deck, take her phone and take some pictures. All of this because I’d observed a fair-sized iceberg passing by on our entrance to Prince Christian Sound. She was going to go back to the cabin and get the camera. At first there was no noticeable breeze, and I found an opening on the rail. I ... read more
Waterfalls from Snow melting
Crows Nest
First Un-named Glacier

North America » Greenland » West Greenland July 31st 2018

Greenland Our crossing the Labrador Sea was interesting to say the least. We were heading into a force 8 gale and the ship was rocking side to side and up and down, often at the same time. We are on deck three and even this low on the ship it was really rocking. By morning the wind had died down a bit and the swells were smaller but still we knew we were at sea. The show tonight was a group named The Emperors of Soul and the were very good. They did Jackie Wilson, Aretha, Michael Jackson and other hits. They each had good voices and danced well. Later they were interviewed by the cruise director and we found out that there were from England and one from Australia. You would never know from their ... read more

North America » Greenland » South Greenland July 27th 2018

Greenland checked off a new country visited for both of us. Today, we do some scenic cruising through Prince Christian Sound (ice bergs permitting) and on to Iceland (another new country for me). All of us have pondered the unique relationship between these two islands: How Greenland has more ice than Iceland; and, Iceland has more green than Greenland. The captain had promised some beautiful photo opportunities, provided of course that the weather allows us to navigate the sound; and, there are no rogue icebergs that block our passage. We learned that a sound is a waterway that has two (or more) openings to the open sea. The weather seemed to be threatening fog all night. Duncan had conceded that one of the disadvantages of having a cabin on the Navigation Deck is that you get ... read more
waterfall near beginning of sound
Mountain tops peaking thru the lower layer of fog
Rounded iceberg

North America » Greenland » South Greenland » Qaqortoq July 26th 2018

Today we are blessed with a sunny and clear day in Qaqortoq (cchhah-ka-tocchh). The “Q” is a sound that is supposed to be produced at the back of your throat, not dissimilar to the clicking sound some cultures use in their speech; but, which is foreign to most Americans. I could see the sun filtering in our stateroom window as I worked on the blog. I was enjoying one of my two dark chocolate candies left by our cabin steward. Our steward has been most generous on this leg of our journey, and has left milk chocolate only once. You see, Sharon gets the milk chocolate candies; while, I get the dark chocolate ones. I’m fully expecting Sharon to leave the cabin steward a note, something to the extent, “Please, no more Dark Chocolate.” But she ... read more
Bar with Entertainment at night in Qaqortoq
Some of the colorful houses in Qaqortoq
Rotterdam docked in Qaqortoq

North America » Greenland July 25th 2018

Our crossing towards Greenland took us across stormy icy seas. An iceberg was spotted and reported by the captain on our approach to Paamiut. Actually, the captain noted that this was our second (and final) approach to Paamiut. Initially, we had a spare two hours baked into our schedule due to our earlier than anticipated departure from Labrador. One look out of our stateroom window found the seas dancing unmercifully, and we had felt the ship rolling and yawing throughout the night. At dinner the previous evening it was apparent that the “Early Rush” had turned into a “Tardy Dribble”. One at our table reported that his wife was back in the cabin still trying to get her sea legs under her. Others were also preferring to remain in their cabin and the convenience of immediate ... read more
View in Fjord near Paamiut
Iceberg near Paamiut
View near Paamiut

North America » Greenland » South Greenland September 24th 2017

Next year we will practise havoc, In that green trench. The saws will yammer their nagging dirge, The donkeys will gather the corpses, The land will be hammered to stumps and ruin... Peter Trower, The Ridge Trees. Despite living in a treeless domain, I actually, somewhat like the trees and their branches that diminish the forever-wind and present us with squirrels. The southern tip of Greenland has trees. I’m not talking a daunting claustrophobic jungle that destroys all light that tries to penetrate the canopy, I’m talking a handful of trees, scattered about an otherwise treeless void. There are larches, spruces and pines living among the alders and birches! The landscape is green, the leaves are crisp and shiny, the late blooming flowers stand resplendent in colour, and there are no bears prowling, nor any squirrels ... read more
Drying Fish
Tasermiut Fjord

North America » Greenland » South Greenland August 31st 2017

Today we arrived at the southern shore of Greenland We entered the Prince Christian Sound about 10AM We will be cruising the sound all day. This is really a fjord that has been formed by glacial sculpting over millenia. The sides of the fjord are huge rock formations that bear the marks of the moving glacier that once filled this whole area. There were many small glaciers visible and waterfalls all along the way. Occasionally you could hear a small bit of ice calve off of the glacier. We passed one large glacier that had a small waterfall right at its edge. We continued on through the fjord and finallly came out at the southern end of Greenland. We sailed through the beautiful islands that are on the southern aspect of Greenland. We are going to ... read more

North America » Greenland » East Greenland June 27th 2017

Thinking of Greenland most people suppose there is only an ice sheet. Or melting ice at least. But Greenland is greener than that. Specially around Kangerlussuaq in West Greenland, just north of the polar circle. Linda, my son Robin and I made some beautiful hikes around this area this week. Kangerlussuaq Let's face it, Kangerlussuaq is ugly. No houses with Mediterranean colors embellished with pots of geraniums and hanging baskets with fuchsia's, no boutiques with the latest Gucci models, no cosy restaurants with candle light where you can eat your chateaubriands. On the contrary. The former US military basement is nothing more than a hotchpotch of iron utility buildings, containers and some wooden house blocks in bright blue and yellow. Pipes run throughout the settlement, coming from Lake Ferguson and supplying the settlement with water. Not ... read more
Alluvial quicksands near Kangerlussuaq
Fossil plain

North America » Greenland » West Greenland » Ilulissat September 15th 2016

"People are not fond of thinking. Only reluctantly do we bother ourselves with what is hard to understand. Perhaps that’s why we know only so little about the beginnings of the sky, the earth, and of most animals. Perhaps or perhaps not. For most difficult of all is to understand how we ourselves came, and where we go on the day we no longer live. Over all beginning and ending, there is darkness." Apakak, in Ostermann 1952. A Few Days in Greenland… Our vessel took us across the raging Baffin Bay to the deeply cut, western shores of Greenland (Kalaallit Nunaat as the Greenlanders prefer to call it). Due to unexpected weather earlier in the voyage, we arrived alongside the harbour in Ilulissat during dinner time. This meant we could get off the ship for an ... read more
Disko Bay
The Icefjord

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