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North America » Canada » Quebec » Québec City
February 9th 2007
Published: February 9th 2007
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My last couple of nights in Vancouver were more than a little ridiculous and loads of fun. After cramming everything into my pack in record time and actually leaving to catch the bus to the airport early (Who me? Yeah I know) I climbed onto the plane and embraced the feeling of once again being completely in transit. It is one of my favourite things of traveling, when you are mid air and you’re not permanently located in any one place, and completely in limbo, it’s the greatest feeling.
Actually getting to Quebec was a wee bit of an ordeal in that it involved a transfer in Toronto, and then a 45 minute wait for the bus from Montréal, which stopped downtown Montréal for another hour before finally going to Quebec. I successfully managed to get off at the right stop which was a random smaller stop before downtown Québec, St. Foy.
Quebec this time around was a completely different experience because this time I was living with Quebecois and they are a delight!
They were a little perplexed by the fact that I speak fuck all French, but took to speaking English instead of French fairly quickly for me which I appreciated. I was introduced everywhere as Le Australi (owstralee), and sympathized with the fact that I really was, freezing my arse off.
When I arrived in Montreal it was -15, and then in Québec it was - 20. It is a cold I cannot describe and that you cannot understand unless you feel it. You can’t go outside without gloves, a torque (beanie), a scarf, jackets etc.
On my first night there it was the last night the Carnaval De Quebec, which is the largest winter carnival in the world.
It was a delight, the parade was hilarious and the last float had the Bonhomme, which is the Carnival mascot and the Quebecois like to say that he is so ugly you should hit him in the face with a frying pan.
There are bars outside made entirely ice. Yeah, I know.
They had a castle made of ice.
They have giant snow sculptures as well from all different countries around the world and it is a competition to see who can make the most artististic and impressive snow sculpture. Australia doesn’t have one. I checked.
They have this delightful drink called Caribou. It is served hot and it is whisky, red wine and cinnamon. It sounds ridiculous but it is great. It was served to me at a bar, located outside outside, that was completely made of ice by man of fairly impressive stature and probably would have been about 60. He was dressed in a large brown fur coat and with a round fluffy hat to match. And his demeanor can only be described as jolly, vivacious, a little bit cheeky and entirely delightful.
I went on an ice slide as well. Not on my arse, on a sled and you simply climb on with 2 or 3 others hold on and go. It was fast, cold and when you’re at the top waiting you can see write over Québec, you’re looking directly at Fairmont Le Château Frontenac which is nothing short of absolutely stunning. And additionally you can see right across the Saint Lawrence River and the lights on the bank on the other side.

St Lawrence river was close to one of the most amazing things I’ve seen since I’ve been away, and furthest from anything I’ve ever seen before. You quite simply, do not get anything like this in Australia. It was completely frozen but the ice floating it was at least half a meter thick. There is a ferry that goes from bank to bank and I think it is about half a kilometer to a kilometer wide that has to break through all of the ice. In spite of the fact that it was about 4 in the afternoon and getting dark and around -18 outside I stayed out on the deck and watched the ice break under the hull of the boat. It was my aim to see a frozen lake and while this was far from it, I was getting close and pretty stoked with it.

Quebec is full of history and as a result has a great many museums, galleries and historic sights. Sight seeing in Quebec for me was all about timing, it gets pretty cold and there was only ever so much time I could spend looking around before I had to go indoors. I was probably more excited about the weather than a lot of other things though.

I went ice skating and even though it was just on some random hockey rink outside, it was much nicer there with people just having a game of hockey than indoors in some cheesy rink with terrible music, and disco balls which was all I’d ever experienced before.
Quebec really is a beauitful place, i thought so when i was there the first time, and seeing it in the winter is all the more incredible.

The other exciting thing was the snow storm! It was freezing cold and crazy. I decided I was going to brave it and walk all the way to the top of the hill that over looks the Saint Lawrence river, and it was nothing short of spectacular. I couldn’t feel my fingers, nose, ears, and I’m still not sure if I still have toes, but it was worth it. I have photo’s which i will put up (because no description will do it justice) however some bastard stole my camera in Vancouver so they are on a disposable which I have yet to develop.


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