Blogs from Resolute Bay, Nunavut, Canada, North America


North America » Canada » Nunavut » Resolute Bay June 30th 2018

Somewhere during my adventures I found a journey - a journey of falling in love with the polar regions, the barrenlands and the inhabitants.” Anon. The Frozen Maze The Arctic Waterways are truly spectacular from the air! Bathurst Inlet and the Kent Peninsula, Coronation Gulf and the massive Victoria Island… Peninsulas and bays, islands and frozen channels scatter in the dazzling void. There is a wilderness in the northern parts, but beyond the wilderness is an emptiness, then beyond that, is a stark bleakness and silence.. The Frozen Community Three kids (Jenny, Neil and Inooki) accompanied us on our stroll through the Northern community of Resolute. The community doesn’t get too many visitors (maybe one hundred or so per year) so it was evident that the kids wanted to engage with us. We chatted as we ... read more
Kent Peninsula
Barrow Strait

North America » Canada » Nunavut » Resolute Bay August 13th 2017

"All mushrooms are edible, but some only once in a lifetime." Henry On the southern edge of the Great Plains of Sunday Lake at the headwaters of a small tributary that feeds the mighty Cunningham River, I crawled on my hands and knees on the soggy ground searching for mushrooms. More specifically, I was looking for particular varieties of the Hebeloma mushroom in the Hymenogastraceae family… My cold hands rummaged through the gnarly roots of the willows, the twisted stems of the blooming bistorta, and the bowing bell-flowers of the nodding saxifrage. My nose faced the ground, inhaling the fragrance of moist Bryam Moss… My eyes were fixed, sweeping back and forth over a tangle of lichen… I was searching… “Is that one? Is that a Hebeloma?” At first I didn't know what I was looking ... read more
An erroneous 'Shroom.
Found One!
Looking for 'Shrooms

North America » Canada » Nunavut » Resolute Bay July 28th 2017

Most consequential choices involve shades of grey, and some fog is often useful in getting things done. Timothy Geithner It has been an unusually damp and foggy summer up here at latitude 74, but that has not hindered our ability to find adventures… Google in the Gloom I have become very fond of Google Canyon, a very narrow and fairly small canyon on a nondescript region of plateau not too far from camp. I go there occasionally, when I have some time in the evenings. Even if it’s gloomy, it’s still a very nice place… It was one degree Celsius, foggy and drizzling when I left camp for a hike. At first I decided I’d stay in camp, but I knew deep down that I had to go. I left alone, nobody else wanted to accompany ... read more
Musk ox in the wind
The herd
Startled Bears

North America » Canada » Nunavut » Resolute Bay July 22nd 2017

“In those Northwest voyages where navigation must be executed in most exquisite sort”. John Davis, 1594 , The Seaman’s Secrets. A high plateau looms behind the lodge. I have climbed to the summit many times. but had yet to explore beyond the rounded dome that casts a midnight shadow on the Cunningham River Delta. The plateau beckoned - it was calling. It was a foggy morning, with wind and snow flurries, not the ideal time for mountaineering in the arctic, but nevertheless, it was a magical scene with dark peaks dancing through holes in the clouds. As I ascended further, the plateau revealed itself as a blurry nothingness. It didn’t wish to be seen through this blanket of fog. The gravel expanse of the plateau's surface is mesmerizing, especially in the fog. All I wanted to ... read more
Cape Riddle
Union Bay
Cape Riley

North America » Canada » Nunavut » Resolute Bay July 5th 2017

There are two kinds of Arctic problems, the imaginary and the real. Of the two, the imaginary are the most real. Vilhjalmur Stefansson. I have become quite familiar with Yellowknife airport. It is a small, single terminal, three-gate affair, with a nice coffee bar called Javarama. I also know Pete, the guy at the desk. And Sarah, and Kevin. Much of our five days in Yellowknife were consumed by dealing with flight cancellations and delays, switching airlines and re-handling our massive amounts of freight. I have even started calling the airport by its international three-letter code now ‘YZF’. It’s just what happens I guess? However, as the expression alludes to, ‘good things come to those who wait’. The eight of us eventually boarded a Buffalo Airways,1938, Douglas DC-3. This vintage aircraft took us into Canada’s high ... read more
Douglass DC-3
Ed Force Three

North America » Canada » Nunavut » Resolute Bay August 12th 2016

“Most people might be oppressed by such surroundings, with its silence and inhumane expanses, but he who seeks peace and quiet in nature, undisturbed by human activity will find here what he seeks.” Fridjof Nansen. The sun set only twice at Cunningham Inlet, and only for a short time... The setting and rising of the sun in this obscure part of the planet is a somewhat seasonal phenomenon, as opposed to a daily occurrence witnessed in most places. The sunset on August 12th marked our final night at the camp, and as the sun fell below the lonely horizon for only twenty-five minutes or so, it left a glowing haze bouncing above the sea. An eerie light danced above us and the blows from distant belugas could be heard in the otherwise silent world. The mercury ... read more
Ice-age Goats
The Falls
Nansen's Ridge

North America » Canada » Nunavut » Resolute Bay August 2nd 2016

Beechey Island is the site of several significant events in the history of Canada's Arctic exploration. In 1845, the British explorer Sir John Franklin commanded another search for the fabled Northwest Passage with his two ships, HMS Erebus and HMS Terror. Franklin and his crew were never to be seen again - even today, the true fate of the expedition and the 129 men remains somewhat mysterious. Franklin chose Beechey Island as a wintering site due to the sheltered bays that would help prevent the ships from being crushed by the winter sea-ice. The high sea-cliffs made the island very distinct in the surrounding shores and would be easily recognized by other ships. A few years after the disappearance of Franklin's ships, several search parties were sent to look for clues - ... read more
The Isthmus
Beechey Sea cliffs
John Torrington

North America » Canada » Nunavut » Resolute Bay July 14th 2016

And not the huffing and puffing kind! About a decade ago, a teenage boy was hiking over the muddy badlands of northern Somerset Island when he inadvertently got his feet stuck, deep into the vacuum of the sticky clay. He struggled and struggled to free his entrapped feet, but the ground slowly consumed his boots. As he tried to free one foot the other foot sank faster into the ever-hungry earth. His pants too had been sucked into the oblivion of the barrens. Struggling some more, he eventually crawled out in his underpants back to the safety of the trail and shyly continued on the hike, a little embarrassed… The tattered, wind-blasted fabric of the blue pants remain visible to this day, exposed for all to view as an eternal reminder to anyone who tries to ... read more
Staying Clear of the Pants
The Pants
Bowhead Bones

North America » Canada » Nunavut » Resolute Bay July 1st 2016

The Girl Who Eats Hearts… We flew for 40 minutes to a small gravel beach near the mouth of the Union River that spills into an unnamed inlet of Cresswell Bay at the southern end of the upper part of Somerset Island. A few small and somewhat abandoned cabins were scattered along the otherwise untouched shore, and sea-ice reached to the horizon. Aleeshek is an Inuit lady who married Ozzie (the Arctic Guru from Resolute), she came along to fish with us at this ultra-remote location. Aleeshek was born here in the fifties and grew up on the land hunting and gathering in what must have been amongst the harshest and inhospitable areas to live in. In her early childhood, the Canadian government of the time forced thousands of people into prefabricated communities in strategic geographic ... read more
My first Cast
Twin Otter at Cresswell Bay
Cresswell Bay Cabins

North America » Canada » Nunavut » Resolute Bay June 22nd 2016

Drilling Holes in Spoons… Resolute Bay is in Canada’s Central Arctic, thousands of miles from the nation’s capital. One of the most amazing features of Resolute is that there are virtually no features! It’s an empty and somewhat featureless, barren expanse of absolute nothingness. Silence and dismal solitude surround this tiny community on Cornwallis Island in the Canadian Central Arctic. This is the polar desert - the arctic at its most desolate. Elbow room is not an issue here. Resolute is Canada's coldest inhabited place, with an average annual temperature of minus 12°C, with bone chattering wind-chills and total darkness in the depths of winter. In the words of Aaron Spitzer, a northern resident; “On the up side, you don’t need to mow the lawn in resolute, on the down side is everything else”. Resolute is ... read more
Inuktitut Roadsign
Polar Bear hide - Resolute

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