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Published: February 27th 2012
Lighthouse Trail
Peggy's Cove in the distance.Lighting Up the Lighthouse Trail
Touring around Nova Scotia for 4 weeks by car over the past two summers, The Travelling Canucks have travelled extensively along the South Shore's Lighthouse Route that is known for its lighthouses, rugged coastline and stormy seas. We have journeyed along quiet country roads along the beautiful coastal landscapes dotted by coastal villages full of historic charm. We have followed the shoreline roads past rugged, wave-carved headlands and tranquil island-studded bays, walked along wind-blown beaches and stopped at historic towns and weathered fishing villages to soak up the maritime lifestyle and hospitality.
The South Shore of Nova Scotia that extends west from Halifax to Yarmouth on the western tip of Nova Scotia is one of the most beautiful parts of Nova Scotia. Coming from British Columbia, it reminds us of home! The rugged seacoast and ocean waves are familiar, as opposed to the muddy and still waters of the Bay of Fundy on the North Shore. Lunenburg, Mahone Bay and Chester were definite highlights of our trip. Shelburne, Lockeport and Liverpool offered historical perspective.
Peggy's Cove Whether on a day trip from Halifax, which is less than 50 kilometres away, or
from Lunenburg, Peggy's Cove, located on the eastern shore of St. Margarets Bay, is one of the most visited and photographed sites in Atlantic Canada. Now we understand why - there was a magical feeling roaming the rolling hills of granite as we soaked up the maritime air and mist from one of Canada's iconic sites, the lighthouse at Peggy's Cove.
Officially known as the Peggy's Point Lighthouse, this 50 ft/15 metres red-and-white octagonal concrete lighthouse, built in 1914 to replace generations of wooden light towers and automated in 1958, is one of the most famous lighthouses in the world.
Fortunately, we couldn't have picked a better day to take a short drive from Lunenburg to take in the sea breezes on a sunny day - quite the rarity in the Maritimes where marine fog is the norm!
With cameras in hand, Peggy's Cove is a photographer's dream seascape - the quintessential Maritimes scene with cottages, boat houses and storage sheds perched along a narrow inlet and on wave-washed granite boulders facing the stormy Atlantic. Sadly, visitors who have not heeded the warnings to not venture too close to the shoreline have been known to be swept
off to sea.
Not only are the seas and lighthouse picturesque, the small fishing village at Peggy's Cove is quaint because of its rustic authenticity as an active fishing village of about 50 residents. Historically, the village grew to 300 when there was a schoolhouse, Carpenter Gothic style church, general store, lobster cannery and boats of all sizes nestled in the cove.
Juxtaposed to the serenity of the small fishing villages along these rocky shorelines is the poignant memorial to a disaster on September 2, 1998 when SwissAir Flight 111 crashed into St. Margarets Bay and 229 lives were lost. After leaving Peggy's Cove, we drove about a kilometre, parked our car and walked along the short walking trail to the SwissAir Flight 111 Memorial and reflected on the tragedy. It was all the more moving remembering when it happened and knowing how the tragedy had impacted those involved in the search and recovery.
The Travelling Canucks suggest a stop at Delish Fine Foods, just off the junction of Highways 3/333 on St. Margaret's Bay Road heading towards Hubbards, on your way back to Halifax or Lunenburg. This European delicatessen, with a distinctly British flair, was delish!
Mama Canuck's Banana Cream Pie Addiction
Joanne's Deli, Market & Bake Shop, Mahone Bay Their home-cooked meat pies, cornish pasties, and sausage rolls, soups, and desserts were all welcome fare for us peckish travellers. The service at this family-run deli was friendly to boot!
Charming Chester The Village of Chester is a historic seaside resort known for sailing, golf, stately summer homes, studios and galleries. With spectacular ocean views, Chester is situated on a tree-clustered peninsula overlooking beautiful Mahone Bay and its many islands.
Yacht racing has been a popular summer sport in Chester for over 150 years. Taking place in August, Chester Race Week is hailed as the largest fixed keel regatta in Canada.
The Chester Marina, home to impressive yachts and sailboats that grace the waters of Mahone Bay, complements the upscale homes that grace the tree-lined streets. Sitting on the patio at The Kiwi Cafe for brunch or lunch on a sunny day is highly recommended after strolling along the shopping street and down by the water's edge.
A fine dining option in Chester is Nicki's Inn and on the seaside route from Chester to Mahone Bay, we recommend stopping along the way to lunch or enjoy casual dining at The Seaside Shanty in Chester Basin
for great food and ambiance!
Magnificent Mahone Bay Looking for Heaven on Earth? Look no further!
Mahone Bay, considered to be one of the most beautiful small towns in Canada, is nestled on a bay with hundreds of islands off a beautiful stretch of coastline. Not only is it known for the picturesque sight of the Three Churches on the waters edge, its rich history is evidenced by its colourful 19th century architecture. It offers visitors lovely art galleries, gift shops, specialty shops and restaurants to enjoy, and sheltered waters on the Atlantic to sail, boat and sea-kayak.
Shopping at Suttles & Seawinds for quilts and quilting gear, The Teazer for giftware, The Tea Brewery for an amazing collection of teas, teapots and mugs, Zack & Nemo Mercantile for country furniture and giftware, Northern Sun Gallery & Gifts for jewelry, Amos Pewter for pewter jewelry and giftware, and the Mahone Bay Trading Company for an amazing selection of footwear, just to name a few, is so good that Haligonians (Halifax residents) make the shopping trip on weekends!
Favourite eateries include Mateus Bistro, Top of Main Cuisine (UPDATE: Closed Spring 2012), and Joanne's Deli, Market &
Bake Shop. The banana cream pie at Joanne's Deli is to die for, as are the dinners and lunches at Mateus Bistro. Needless to say, we kept going back for more! Besides these personal favorites, there are tea and coffee shops and other restaurants worth trying.
Bayview Pines Country Inn, located just outside of Mahone Bay en route to Indian Point, was the perfect Bed & Breakfast to relax and enjoy the spectacular setting. A 360degree bird's eye view from the B & B, lovely host and hostess, well-appointed rooms, and delicious breakfasts makes this a top pick!
Although we stayed in Lunenburg at the Ashley House B & B our first summer, we decided to stay in Mahone Bay last summer because of its beautiful setting, quaint shopping area and fantastic dining establishments. Since Mahone Bay is halfway between Chester and Lunenburg and a day trip to Wolfville, it is perfectly situated to explore the South and North Shore. Have a look at our blog titled
Trailing Around Nova Scotia's North Shore for highlights of our driving tour along the Glooscap and Evangeline Trails and the fabulous restaurants we recommend if you plan on doing a day trip from Mahone Bay which
we did on our second vacation spent on the South Shore in September 2011.
The Travelling Canucks can't wait to go back to celebrate the annual festivals in Mahone Bay: Pirate Bay Regatta in July/August, Scarecrow Festival in October, and Father Christmas Festival in November/December - only problem being, we would have to either move to Mahone Bay or stay six months!
Loving Lunenburg Lunenburg, a small historic port town located on a peninsula at the western side of Mahone Bay, was the highlight of our tour of the South Shore. To have time to tour, stroll, shop, dine, golf and sail the surrounding waters, we recommend staying at least a couple of nights or longer if time permits!
Old Town Lunenburg, founded in 1753, is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its conserved model town plan as a British colonial settlement in North America, and as a National Historic District in Canada. To this day, the town's historical and cultural heritage developed during the prosperous eras of shipbuilding, fishing and trade with the West Indies are evidenced by its well conserved and colourful buildings that line the waterfront and sneak up the steep
slope that overlooks it. Lunenburg's streetscapes of 18th and 19th century buildings of European influence, including residential, business premises, churches and impressive stately Victorian homes that can be seen along tree-lined streets, add charm to Lunenburg's New Town in contrast to the rustic waterfront where shipbuilders, fish processors and warehouses crowded the shores of the Old Town.
Some of the architectural splendors of Lunenburg include the Lunenburg Academy, Koch-Solomon House, Heckman-Morash House, Parish Hall, 49 Cornwallis Street and St. John's Anglican Church, the second-oldest Anglican church in Canada and National Historic Site. This extraordinary example of Carpenter Gothic architecture was destroyed by fire in 2001, Fortunately, the building has been fully restored to its former glory with displays including an underground crypt and repatriated “Vinegar Bible” printed in 1717.
On the waterfront, the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic features: a small aquarium with lobsters, flounders, and cods; exhibits on life at sea, ship building, and rum running; a facinating Bluenose exhibit; a theatre featuring Maritime-themed films; and, a fishing schooner, trawler, and boats moored beside the wharf. Not only can you hear a yarn or Maritime music with Old Salts, you can eat at the Old
Fish Factory Restaurant and shop at the Salt Store Gift Shop. It's a great place to hang out for hours on a rainy day!
Bluenose II, Nova Scotia’s sailing ambassador, is a replica of the original Bluenose (1921-1946) depicted on the Canadian dime. It has been undergoing a major restoration since 2010 on the Lunenburg waterfront, site of the original construction in the 1960s. Consequently, there have been no sailing excursions. However, we were able to visit the site of the restoration which was very interesting. Check out their website where you can watch the restoration via live webcam!
The Travelling Canucks have also enjoyed sailing around Lunenburg Harbour and meeting locals at the local farmer's market where florists, artisans, farmers, bakers, and gourmet food purveyors sell their fresh products. But most of all, we enjoyed just roaming the streets sightseeing, window-shopping and dining in a great number of fine eating establishments. You can't go wrong eating dinner at Fleur de Sel, Tratorria Della Nona, or The Tin Fish! For lunch or affordable dinners, we recommend eating at Magnolia's Grill or the Salt Shaker Deli. For pub grub, check out the Knot Pub!
Suggested Day Trips from Lunenburg
Shelburne Shelburne, settled by British Loyalists from the American Colonies, was the fourth largest town in North America by 1784, when its population approaching 10,000 was much larger than either Halifax or Montreal. Its days as a thriving fishing and shipbuilding centre are, however, sadly long gone.
Today, a short visit to walk along the shoreline among many of Shelburne's buildings dating back to Loyalist times and to see the Dory Shop Museum and Ross-Thompson House Museum are just our excuse to drive all the way from Lunenburg to Shelburne to eat at one of the best restaurants in Nova Scotia, Charlotte Lane Cafe & Crafts.
At the Dory Shop Museum, you step back into the authentic harbour-side dory factory, J C Williams Dory Shop, and learn all about the history of the Shelburne Dory whose makers rivaled their Lunenburg competitors and why the reliable dory was the backbone of the East Coast fishery for almost a century. Late 19th century construction methods are still at work building dories today.
The Ross-Thomson House and Store, dating back to 1785, is an authentically stocked 18th century store and chandlery. The Ross brothers traded Shelburne's pine
planks, codfish, ship's knees, spars, and pickled herring for salt from the Turks Island, tobacco from the Carolinas and Virginia, flour from New England, rum, molasses, and sugar from the West Indies, dry goods and china from England, and wine from Madiera.
Walking by the world famous Grand Banks Fishery as it existed from 1880 to 1971 only emphasizes how much of Shelburne feels like a ghost town that is trapped in its illustrious past.
Lockeport Our trip to Lockeport proved most interesting despite the marine fog that enveloped the shore intermittently. The sand on Colonel Locke Beach was soft as silk on our bare feet as we stood trying to spot Lockeport’s Lighthouse that could barely be seen through the heavy fog when we first set foot in Lockeport.
It was a collection of dangerous ledges and rocks, known as the Ragged Islands that guard the entrance to Lockeport Harbour that precipitated the building of the lighthouse atop Gull Rock. Although the original lighthouse was completed in 1853, the present lighthouse was built around 1955 that we finally saw after the fog lifted momentarily. Another claim to fame is Crescent Beach. Its image once graced
the back of the Canadian $50 banknote issued in 1954.
In 1762, two families left Massachusetts to establish a new colony closer to the rich fishing grounds of the Grand Banks. The colony was called Locke’s Island, after Jonathan Locke, the patriarch of one of the two families, until Lockeport was incorporated in 1907.
Accidentally, we met up with one of Jonathan Locke’s ancestors and Papa Canuck's long lost relative. He kindly opened his home and shared his passion for our shared family history. We walked the heritage streetscape commemorated by a monument titled: 'Locke Family Homestead Streetscape' and toured graveyards where ancestors were buried. This was the final stop in our search to trace ancestral roots in Nova Scotia. To find out more about our search that led us to Pugwash, Yarmouth, Kentville, Canning and to the Jawbone Cemetary in the Annapolis Valley, see our blog titled
Planting Our Feet in Nova Scotia Liverpool Liverpool, halfway between Yarmouth and Halifax, was a major seaport in its heyday when the fishing and ship-building industries prospered. With a history dating back to Champlain who landed in 1604 and its prominence on the 18th Century trading routes that flourished since its days as
a Privateers’ fort defended town, Liverpool has enjoyed a long and prosperous history bringing wealth to the community that is on display in its many museums. While Liverpool has lost its prominence, it remains the most developed and industrialized town along the South Shore after Halifax and Bridgewater.
Facing Liverpool Harbour is the Fort Point Lighthouse, the third oldest lighthouse in Nova Scotia dating back to 1855. This picturesque wooden lighthouse, surrounded by a public park, offers an interesting, but small museum and cute gift shop worthy of a short visit.
More time could be spent in Liverpool celebrating its privateering days at the annual festival, Privateer Days in June/July or visiting the Queens County Museum, the 1760's Perkins House, the Hank Snow Museum for country music located in the old Liverpool train station, and several private museums run by Nova Scotian photographer Sherman Hines, if time permits.
The South Shore Shines Exploring Shelburne, Lockeport, and Liverpool, all with their privateer legends, brought historical perspective to our travels along the South Shore that once supported families of fishers and shipbuilders. Today, the fisheries and shipyards support few Maritimers who are drawn to Halifax or other parts of Canada.
Lunenburg, a world-class tourist destination, offers visitors lovely galleries, charming boutiques and restaurants amidst the beautifully preserved buildings of the old town district. Many visitors only make day trips to Lunenburg from Halifax. We recommend staying overnight to enjoy South Shore hospitality. We highly recommend taking time to enjoy the beautiful seaside lifestyle in Mahone Bay and Chester and visiting Peggy's Cove, a definite must before heading back to Halifax. 2012 UPDATE: In October 2012, we stayed in Mahone Bay for four nights to enjoy the fall colours in Mahone Bay, Lunenburg and Chester before hanging out in Halifax for two nights. Check out our blog titled:
Falling for Nova Scotia's Colours Have a look at our blog titled:
Hail to Halifax for 2010 and 2011 highlights of our great times in Nova Scotia's Capital City on the South Shore.
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