Driving the Viking Trail

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Setting off early from Rocky Harbour, I began my northward journey along the Viking Trail (more prosaically known as Route 430). The stunning weather - clear, blue skies and a warm sun - was a fitting backdrop to the stunning scenery. So stunning that I couldn’t help but stop frequently to take in each postcard worthy view. I had hardly set out before I pulled over to see the lighthouse at Lobster Cove, and then I kept braking to take in the panorama of flat top mountains or the drama of the Labrador Straight (even, toward the end, spotting a few distant icebergs). Sometimes I stopped in the little fishing villages, a reminder that people do live here. As I drove further north, the pine trees began to give way more and more to tundra-esque open expanses dotted with patches of wind-stunted trees. In many spots I was reminded of the landscapes of other North Atlantic islands I have visited (the Faroes, Iceland, Greenland, even Ireland).

I followed the Viking Trail to the very tip of Newfoundland’s extended thumb, right up to its northern most sign of humanity: the Tickle Inn, my next home. As soon as I crested the last stretch of the Trail and saw the dollhouse-like inn framed by a spectacular bay, I fell in love. It is likely the oldest wooden home on the French Shore (circa 1890) and has been lovingly restored. Inside, the ceilings and doorways are rather low (people were short in the day!) and the rooms cozy, but it is absolutely adorable. I am excited that I am staying here for the next few nights.

Another advantage to being at the Tickle Inn, there are a couple of trails that skirt the surrounding cliffs. I headed out on the longest one as soon as I had settled in, wandering for hours on the edge of the world, imagining I was a Viking….

Note:

Although I have been here only a short while, I have been struck by how genuinely friendly Newfoundlanders seem to be. Admittedly, this is a part of the world that marches to the beat of a different drum. Moose meat and cod tongues populate restaurant menus, for one. And, heck, the province even is in a wacky time zone - it is one and a half hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time. But the overall impression is simply: nice. There was the super chipper and helpful employee of Enterprise, who ended up giving me a free upgrade because I arrived early. There was Vera and Dave, the proprietors of The Anchor Down, who served tea and fresh baked cookies in the evening and prepared an amazing send-off breakfast this morning (ham and beans, partridge berry pancakes with partridge berry and cloudberry jams, oatmeal-blueberry muffins, etc.) - and who invited me back to tea when I return this weekend, even though I am staying at a different B&B! There was David Adams, owner of the Tickle Inn (and descendent of the original inhabitants of the 1890s house), who came running after me just to make sure I knew how to navigate the paths along the cliffs. All great people.

Tomorrow: to L’Anse aux Meadows, the Viking settlement. Finally!

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Comments

[Andrew]

Awesome
Really beautiful James. Wish I could be traveling with you up there. I love Canada in the summer and am insanely jealous. Thank you for sharing.

[Heather]

My boyfriend and I have been enjoying your posts. I love your photos from the Viking Trail, it looks so beautiful. The Tickle Inn sounds like a good place to stop. Keep up the great posting! Heather :) dirty-hippies.blogspot.com

[Tracey]

On the road again!!
James, thanks for taking us with you again on a new journey!! Great pics as always - love hearing about your trip!! Wishing you safe but adventurous travel!!