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Published: September 3rd 2013
I spent my next day taking things slow. I went to the discovery centre where there were very good displays. They also had wifi. While I was writing, the man at the desk kept up a running stream of song. He had a beautiful voice and I thanked him before I left. Early to bed with reading in the tent.
The next day we had been told to expect rain just as we had had the day before, but the wind blew away the cloud and we had a sunny warm glorious day. I was just thinking I would get ready for a paddle when Audrey returned and invited me on another hike. This time, we started along the trail that follows the shore of the pond I had paddled a few days before. We then broke away from the path to follow a broke up into the hills. This hike was different than the last. The elevation rise was not so steep and we had more green surrounding us. We went along side, across and up through the brook till we got to a flat barrens, next we had a very steep but quick climb up the rocks to
get to a higher plateau, almost the top. Here the rock was not the orange gold of the tablelands so close beside us. The rock here was more of the iron grey. We kept climbing a bit until we had to climb down into the most wonderful spot in the world. At the font of another brook, in the beginning crease of another canyon there was a hidden bowl of tiny ponds filled with the crystal clear waters of the fens above. I didn't want to leave. Lewis was brave enough to go in for a quick dunk, freezing cold. Audrey walk the pools barefoot, but I just sat and let the rushing water and the idyllic scene sink in as deep as I could. When we left we circled around to a look out point and Lew got us to turn around. At the foot of those pools, just feet from where I had sat, the cliffs dropped away to the canyon floor and the waterfall must have dropped a hundred feet. It was spectacular. We trekked home by a slightly different route, always looking up to see the cliffs across Trout River Pond from us. They loom up
high and pull your eye all the time. The end one has been dubbed the elephant and you can see the ears and trunk in the huge rock. We decided to go through the bush to back to the pond trail to shorten our hike back. This meant finding moose trail when we could and little streams going the right direction, while pushing back branches. I loved it. It felt more the like ,some of the off trails routes I have taken on journeys in Northern Saskatchewan. The hike took 6 hours just like the last one, and had some challenging ups and downs, but I was no where near as tired and sore, maybe I'm getting tougher.
The next day was forecasted to be raining, but the morning was clear enough that I decided to hike on my own on a marked trail. The Green Gardens trail takes you from the barrens at the feet of the tables lands, away and down to the open ocean through a forest. The going is steep but the park has put in many stairs so it seemed like a walk in the park compared to the last two hikes. When you
get to the ocean you can take one more steep staircase down to the beach. There you can walk the sands to see a water fall pouring fresh water into the sea, and the other way you can get to a sea cave. I had not checked to see when the tide would be low before I left, luck was with me. I could climb along the rock outcropping to get to the cave cut deep into the cliffs. Caves have always frightened me, but this one had a ceiling 30 ft high above me, no claustrophobia in that. I returned to the beach and decided to sit and soak in the sea instead of continuing along the ocean front trail for another 4 km. As I returned back along the route, now all uphill, it started to rain. You'd think that this would be a drawback, but I get so warm climbing steep trails that it was refreshing. I was back at camp in time to reorganize everything, have a shower, and then go out for dinner. There is a highly acclaimed restaurant in Trout River. Trout River is a tiny fishing town with the characteristic brightly coloured houses,
and this town has built a 1 km boardwalk along the curve of the cove. The restaurant is on the water edge. When you sit upstairs the view out the windows is of the arms of the cove reaching out to the open sit, wow. I had turbot for supper with a really good local brown ale. I was astounded when a local woman set up on the small stage in front of my able and started playing the harp. Perfect ending for my time in Gros Morne.
Good Night and Sweet Dreams
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