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Published: October 27th 2014
QUADRA ISLAND The ferry to
Quadra Island was quick but it was a raining hard and therefore not a very scenic crossing. Once we disembarked it was only a short distance to our next accommodation which was a self-catering cabin overlooking an inlet and a couple of small islands. The cabin was set off on its own and afforded privacy from the other accommodation and was certainly well equipped with everything we needed as well as a lovely view. We had free use of kayaks whilst we were there and hoped to be able to get out on the water at some point - if the weather would relent just a little!
However it rained
a lot in fact for most of the seven days we were on the island, we managed to get out and about on some hikes but the kayaks were out of the equation. We had to appreciate that we were now ‘out of season’ and autumn was well and truly taking hold and winter was just a whisper away………
Quadra Island is located between Vancouver Island and the mainland of British Columbia. Although it is on the
'west coast' of the country it is to the east of Vancouver Island in the sheltered waters of the Inside Passage. The island is about 22 miles long and at it widest point is 9 miles, but in parts as short as 1.25 miles so not that big. There are about 2,700 year round residents, which doubles in the summer months with visiting tourists but most of these had now gone home and the island was 'back to normal' for its residents - in fact it was very quiet and peaceful.
On our first day we went in search of
Cape Mudge Lighthouse, situated on the southern tip of Quadra Island, Cape Mudge Lighthouse marks the southern entrance to Discovery Pass. Though a seemingly tranquil spot, passed by ferries and cruise ships heading for Alaska, just a few miles north lie the dreaded Seymour Narrows, which George Vancouver described as ‘one of the vilest stretches of water in the world.’
We got 'lost', how one can get lost on this small island I do not know but we did! We asked for directions and finally parked up next to a small beach.
We walked along the pebbly shore for a while but it was really grey and wet and after locating the lighthouse we found that it was not open to the public ... ....It was a little disappointing as there was no information about the buildings which would have been helpful. We later found out a bit more from internet research but it would have been helpful to have had some information boards near the lighthouse. In 1916 the original wooden lighthouse was replaced with the current tower which was a forty two foot high white octagonal reinforced concrete building with a bright red lantern on top. The lighthouse was really picturesque and would have been great to have been able to have has a mooch around. The original wooden lighthouse was retained as a dwelling after completion of the newer tower and this was located nearby. Nowadays as with a many of other older lighthouses it is all completely high-technology and has an automated weather observing system as well as a solar-powered light, horn and even a videograph fog sensor. We passed several warning signs stating that the sensors, 'could go off at any time and to be aware of
really high noise levels'! When all this modern equipment was installed the Canadian Coast Guard felt that there was no need for a human presence at Cape Mudge - another case of technology taking away much needed jobs and in September 2009, the station was stated to be de-staffed. However, after many protests from keepers and the public, who implored that an 'automatic sensor' could never fully replace,
a pair of alert light keepers eyes on the water, the de-staffing plans were shelved pending further review but time will tell what happens next............
It kept raining and raining so we looked in our local guide book for something we could do that would keep us relatively dry. In the end we drove a short distance along the bay to
Cape Mudge, stopping at the
Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre in the centre of the village. The young lady who greeted us had just started working as a volunteer after moving to the area and marrying a local man. She explained the difference between the various names that are used all around Canada for the original inhabitants, native, indian, aborigine, first nation etc as well as how written language emerged.
Ah Wah Qwa Dz
A place to relax and tell storiesAs a good introduction to the museums displays she recommended that we watch archival video footage which would give us an insight into the culture, dances, ceremonies, language and history of the Kwakwaka’wakw people as well as the foundation of the ‘Potlatch’. The centre was empty so we sat down alone to watch the film.
The
Potlatch, is a First Nation gift-giving people’s ceremony which provides a means of publicly recognising and documenting claims of status and privilege. In traditional times, it was the cornerstone of an economic system which worked for the people. A potlatch may be held on the occasion of births, deaths, adoptions, weddings, and many other major events. Typically the potlatch was practiced more in the winter seasons as historically the warmer months were for procuring wealth for the family, clan, or village, then coming home and sharing that with ones neighbours and friends. The potlatch was the occasion on which titles associated with Masks and other important objects were 'fastened on' to a new office holder. For some cultures, such as the Kwakwaka"wakw, elaborate and theatrical dances were performed reflecting the hosts' genealogy and cultural wealth. Many of these dances were also
sacred ceremonies of secret societies and had been hosted for hundreds of years. There were many different and unique cultural groups and nations and each nation, tribe, and sometimes even each individual clan had its own way of practising the potlatch with diverse presentations and meanings. However in 1884, the Federal Government outlawed the Potlatch Ceremony in its entirety making it illegal for any Indian to practice their cherished tradition - a ban that actually remained in effect until
1951. Most of the masks and regalia used in those ceremonies ended up in museums and private collections around the world after having been confiscated by the Government for violating the anti-potlatch laws ... ... ... It was not until the late 70s that some of these collections were returned, marking an important milestone in history for many local people and many of the ceremonies were revived. The small museum on the island was specifically designed to house many of the artefacts that were 'stolen'. At the museum we were able to view an impressive collection of unique ritual items including many colourful wooden masks - the collection actually featured over 350 historic ceremonial and regalia items and
many had an interesting story or historic fact detailed on small plaques next to them.
It was astounding to see these massive brightly coloured masks we had viewed in the film footage still with their original feathers and fur intact exactly as they had been worn. It was unbelievable how anyone could hold these magnificent wooden carved masterpieces in place on their faces and still be able to perform a special dance sequence. It was definitely a unique museum and not like any we had been in before and so worth a visit just to view these masks and learn about the history of the people that wore them.
Displayed just outside the museum doors were several stone boulders estimated to be more than 2750 years old each displaying
petroglyphs - many of these had worn away though and you could hardly make out the inscriptions and indentations. We did see one that looked like a carving we had seen on a rock wall in Cornwall, UK many years ago - maybe there was some connection somewhere!
Adjacent to the centre and alongside the beach itself was the
Ah Wah Qwa Dz which was an open wooden structure with a canopy roof displaying large painted wooden totem poles surrounded a seating area looking out to the water. This was a lovely place to relax and tell stories of old. Nearby in the village itself was a small native cemetery - many of the graves were marked with wooden carved effigies in a variety of animals and birds designs. In some ways we found the village, it people and its history as interesting as the centre itself and worth a wander around which would have been much better if the weather had been more favourable.................
Back in our little cabin we spent many happy hours looking out over the islands and chilling. One day whilst doing just that I heard this loud noise and thought that someone was chopping down a tree nearby. Only to be totally surprised to see a very large Woodpecker merrily hacking away into a dead tree stump. It was a
Pileated Woodpecker, a very large bird about 18 inches - roughly the size of a crow. It is the largest woodpecker in North American and the first one I have ever seen. So now
we have seen the smallest and the largest woodpeckers, having glimpsed the
Downy Woodpecker in Parksville a while ago.
We enjoyed several hikes on Quadra Island and in particular liked the
Rebecca Spit Walk. This hike took us along a forested trail but had good access to the water’s edge so you could stop and look to see what was happening on the water as well as in the forest. I saw many different colourful duck species when they were not disappearing completely under the water looking for crustaceans and molluscs. I particularly liked the
Harlequin Duck, the adult males are slate blue with chestnut sides and white markings including a white crescent at the base of their bill. Adult females are less colourful, with brownish-grey plumage and a white patch on the head around the eye. Both adults have a white ear-patch which makes them quite distinctive. Another duck I saw quite often was called a
Surf Scoters, the male is all black, except for white patches on the nape and forehead but it has a bulbous red, yellow and white bill which makes it look quite comical, whilst the females are just brown
with pale head patch - the usual story. Whilst I spotted the birds, Paul enjoyed watching the boats and ferries in the still waters around the spit as well as the ferry crossing from Quadra to
Cortez Island on a regular basis. We walked around to the
Heriot Bay Ferry terminal and wandered around the jetties watching the ferry arrive, only a few cars were getting off and no-one was waiting for its return journey to Cortez - it was out of season after all.............
Another hike we enjoyed on the island was the
Kay Dubious Trail, it took us a while to find the trailhead and when we did there was just enough room for a couple of cars to park so when busy it would probably be a difficult to park anywhere. Directly from the parking space you immediately entered a thick forest undergrowth and in parts the track became quite muddy but it was still raining. There were a couple of short side trails down to a windswept beach covered in large tree logs and therefore difficult to navigate. The walk was not circular though so you had to return the same way you
had come - but we find you always find something different when you retrace your steps.
Whilst we were on the island the weather seemed to change very quickly and it became quite autumnal overnight. Maples and other deciduous trees were shedding their colourful leaves and everything was turning a different shade of red, orange and brown - a pretty time to visit the area. Most of the accommodations were also closing for their long winter break and some days we were the only guests at our accommodation but our hosts were great company and nice to have a little chat with. They too were heading to Toronto and wanted to meet up with us but we would miss each other by a day which was a shame - maybe another time..........
We have a few more weeks to wait around on Vancouver Island before we fly to
Winnipeg to see the Polar Bears which should be arriving in the area around Churchill and the final stage of our North American journey. As mentioned in a previous blog our intention in the meantime whilst we wait is to return to
North Vancouver Island and revisit Azure Beach House half way between Telegraph Cove and Port McNeill which we had so enjoyed. As 97 percent of the population of Vancouver Island live in the southern half of the island, those seeking solitude head north which is what most of Vancouver looked like before the south’s development so much quieter and peaceful and nice to spend some time.
So we said goodbye to Quadra Island and caught the ferry back to the main island, stocked up on supplies in Campbell River and headed north again. The journey took us about two and half hours and the rain accompanied us for most of the way. The roads were slippery so we took it slowly but they were also empty and quiet as they were before with only the odd logging truck passing by .........
AZURE BEACH HOUSE AGAIN We were greeted by Rosalind the owner and had a chat before she went off on holiday herself. She had finished working for Strathcona Provincial Park and was going to visit her daughter who lived south of the island whilst we stayed in her
delightful home overlooking Malcolm Island.
She said that the male and female
Bald Eagles were still guarding their nest at the bottom of her garden which was great and I was looking forward to seeing them again. Yesterday she had seen the local whaleboat just off shore as it had come across a pod of
Orca which she watched from her balcony - we hoped we would be as lucky.
As we had done before we totally relaxed and enjoyed the area, chilling on the balcony or combing the beach looking for wildlife and watching the different boats go sailing by. Fishing boats would head off early in the morning and we would later see them returning hopefully with a full catch. Little floating Tugs headed down the Strait on a regular basis towing huge floating logs rafts - we watched one going down the waters so slowly towing these giant logs behind it - it took over an hour just to pass by 'our' house - it was towing hundred of giant tree trunks.
PORT HARDY We travelled north to
Port Hardy which is as far north as you can drive on the island and where the Highway 19 ends - there are no sealed roads any further only a few logging dirt roads and many hiking routes. With a population exceeding 5000, this turn-of-the-century townsite is now the largest community in the region and the bustling terminal for B.C. Ferries' services to
Prince Rupert and
Haida Gwaii (Queen Charlotte Islands) via the Inside and Discovery Coast Passage sailing routes. Port Hardy was named after Vice-Admiral Sir Thomas Masterman Hardy, former captain of H.M.S. Victory. We would have liked to have visited Haida Gwaii but it takes at least13 hours to get to there so hardly a day trip!
Just before we reached the town we stopped to hike the
Quatse River Trail through an old growth forest and watched hundreds of salmon waiting patiently for the right conditions to be able to go up river to spawn and die. The Quatse River Salmon Stewardship Centre was nearby with good signage boards alongside the river on the flora and fauna found in the area. These boards with their detailed information
on the various fish which live in these waters were ideally situated within steps of the salmon spawning river and hatchery. We watched this young chap on the river bank trying to get an underwater photograph of the congregating salmon - he popped his camera into the water on the side of the bank only to jump up sucking his finger - a salmon seemed to have taken a good bite out of his finger!
We arrived in Port Hardy but it was a Sunday and the visitor centre was closed and all was really quiet - it was raining again so this was keeping the few tourist away and it seemed like we had the whole town to ourselves. We strolled along the
Seawall for a while to a small harbour, where fishing boats, sail boats and float planes dominated the water but these too were not doing much. In the water all we heard was the regular and constant splash of a massive salmon jumping as high as it could get before falling back down into the water only to attempt it again a moment later. There is a lot of theory about
why these salmon jump, some say it's to prepare their muscles for the rapids and waterfalls they have to manoeuvre along the way to spawn maybe it is just that......... We walked around and finally arrived in a large green park overlooking the water - we just knew we had arrived at
Carrot Park by the large carved wooden carrot overlooking the water. A sign nearby stated, 'this carrot marking the northern end of the island highway is a symbol of government road building promises, dangled in front of northern island settlers since1897. The successful late 1970's 'Carrot Campaign' was aimed at making the government keep promises of a completed island highway' ... ....
On our way out of the town we stopped at
Storey’s Beach and Fort Rupert, the site of a former Hudson’s Bay Company fort and walked along a small stretch of pebbly beach with a nearby local cemetery looking out over the water with gigantic tombstones carved in local wood and brightly painted similar to the First Nation cemetery we had seen on Quadra Island. Across the road was a long carved boat sheltered under a canopy with large
tree trunks laying on the ground nearby awaiting their turn to be turned into just such a boat.
PORT ALICE We decided to drive on a newly paved section of Highway 30 to the small village of Port Alice, a picturesque community built on a mountainside affording excellent views of Neroutsos Inlet. On the way to Port Alice we stopped at the
Marble River Provincial Park which protects a portion of the Marble River, which flows through a shallow canyon ideally nestled in a beautiful forest.
It was a scenic drive along the narrow road each side shrouded with thick forests and deep lakes appearing out of nowhere all the way to the village. The small community of only around 800 residents was rich with a unique history, once a booming forestry town but now a quiet backwater with access to the
wild west coast for those hardy few. We parked up and walked along the newly laid Sea Walk Trail which followed the massive inlet for a while before the path and the road disappeared completely - next stop the wild west
coast.
CORMORANT ISLAND - ALERT BAY The local ferry from Port McNeill to Malcolm and Cormorant Island had closed for October to make improvement to the jetty. Alternative arrangements had been made for locals to ferry their cars across with barges as well as necessary supply trucks but not for tourist. However we could still visit the islands as foot passengers as the local Whaleboat was ferrying passengers only between the islands - a nice little winter earner for the whaleboat.
Cormorant Island is very small, only 4 km long and 1 km wide at its narrowest point. The island is the traditional home of the
Namgis First Nation who have lived on the Island on a seasonal basis for several thousand years as well as using the island as a place to bring their people who had passed on - an island cemetery. Nowadays though the island has a population of about 1300 people living there full time in three communities, the village of Alert Bay and two Indian Reserves. It is the oldest community in Northern Vancouver and hosts some of the region's finest
historical and cultural artefacts. Some of the heritage buildings and old village houses along the waterfront still speak of the early pioneer days where times were hard but they still are to many people living on the outer islands.
We called into the visitor centre where a local lady greeted us very warmly and we left about half an hour later laden with little brochures to help us navigate on foot around the island and view its treasures. These brochures including a detailed description of the many totem poles old and new dotted around the island, a list of the flora and fauna found throughout the island as well as detailed trail guides. All of these were completely free and as mentioned we were made to feel at home on this small island even before we headed off to explore.
We walked along the waterfront boardwalk for a while passing many heritage village houses and were surprised to see a line up of three old
Double Decker Buses, one stating. 'see more of London' and another just saying just 'Morecombe'. Not sure what they were doing on this island and
there was no information to tell us so we still do not know how and why they got here. We stopped to view Christ Church, a scenic Anglican white painted wooden church. The building was prefabricated in England and it held its first service on the island in 1892 it surely did look out of place here but yet again a nice structure to view. Along the way we passed many remnants of the island fishing industry past including an old salmon saltery and cannery.
We also strolled passed many old fishing boats, some rotting away on the shoreline where they had been left many years before and finally arrived at the
U'mista Cultural Centre. This centre was dedicated to reviving pride in local culture, language and history and housed a magnificent display of elaborately carved
Cedar Masks that were confiscated after an illegal Potlatch in 1921. After the ban was lifted, the Kwakwaka'wakw people fought for decades for the return of their sacred regalia. The centre was a good place full of interesting information and the masks were displayed all together in one room at the end of the centre in a
very unique setting.
When we had approached the island earlier on the ferry we had seen a tall red brick building which reminded us of a prison. This building was located right next door to the
U'mista Cultural Centre and was the ruins of a school.
St. Michael’s Indian Residential School operated from 1929 to 1974. When the school was closed, the First Nations residents of the island took over the ownership and decided to leave it standing, its deteriorating condition being a horrific testament to a tragic past of cultural genocide and the ill treatment of some of the children who attended the school. The continued existence of this building is at a crossroads - a hazard assessment is needed to evaluate whether it can be rebuilt for positive uses or should it be torn down? I think the debate for this will go on for quite a while - having read some of the horrific stories from those who attended the school, which were detailed in the centre next door, it was very thought provoking to stand outside the building itself and walk on the very ground where these children had stood having just said
a tearful goodbye to their parents and not knowing when they would see them again.
As mentioned early we had been given a list of the many totem poles erected all over the island and we set off to see some of these. The list proved extremely useful giving lots of background information on them once we worked out which one it was that is. One you could not mistake or indeed not miss was the
world's tallest totem pole, at 173 feet, carved by six Kwakwaka'wakw artists you could see its top from many areas around the island. Unlike most totem poles that are specific to a particular family, the fourteen figures depicted on this large pole are acquired through marriage and represent some of the tribes of the Kwakwaka'wakw nation. Some of the totem poles were single and erected outside peoples home whilst other were in large groups like the ones in the two local burial grounds - the grounds themselves were closed to the public but the totem poles themselves could easily be viewed from the roadside. Nearby the largest totem was the
Alert Bay Big House modelled on the traditional residence of the
Kwakwaka'wakw. The building is primarily used for Potlatch ceremonies which are part of every day life on the island now that they are no longer outlawed.
At the highest point on the island we could see out over the waters as we hiked along the perimeter and reached
Alert Bay Ecological Reserve, where a series of trails crossed a forested area. On arrival a narrow wooden boardwalk took us over marshy swamplands - the whole area was formed when a dam blocked a lake and changing the landscape drastically killing of the trees which were now waterlogged as the water could not escape. Large dead Cedar and Pine trees draped with moss and algae provided an eerie charm and beauty to the area - it was like stepping into a mystical fairy tale. As we walked we could hear lots of wildlife all around us including large frogs, lots of birds and a pair of Bald Eagles were perched on a huge dead tree overlooking the swamp itself. After a short hike we sat and had a picnic lunch on the wooden table of an empty campsite, which probably a few weeks before had been
full of happy campers but now it was just us. We finally headed down hill and back into the village to head home.
Back at the temporary whaleboat ferry, there was a queue - where had all these people come from. We were the only tourist but there were also many locals heading over to Vancouver Island probably to visit friends as well as many school children heading off for a local hockey match. Also on board were several truck drivers who had to use the ferry as foot passengers whilst their trucks were transported by barge. There was not room for everyone so the whaleboat captain dialled for a smaller boat to come and collect the other passengers but we were lucky and managed to get a seat on board.
AZURE BEACH HOUSE Back at our beach house we chilled and watched the resident
Bald Eagles catch fish in the bay of which there were still plenty. If fish are scarce though, this bird refuses to go hungry and instead will feast on rabbits, squirrels, birds and even young deer! One day we saw the male
fly in with nesting material and the female was waiting on the nest to receive it - they stayed a while moving it around before flying off again.
A bit of trivia - When a bald eagle loses a feather on one wing, it will lose a feather on the other in order to keep its balance!
So it was time to leave our pleasant home by the sea as time was getting short for us now and we must move on but we do hope to return one day to this little idyll in the north of Vancouver Island in the not too distant future.
The next morning we headed south to
Port Alberni where we were going to spend the last few days on the island.
On the way we stopped for a hike at
Qualicum Falls, where an impressive forested trail led us to the falls which cascaded down to a rocky gorge far below. We also had a short walk at
Cathedral Cove, a rare and endangered remnant of an ancient Douglas fir ecosystem. The biggest trees in the Grove were about 800 years old and measured
250 feet high 29 feet in circumference - very large. They were survivors of a forest fire that ravaged the area some 350 years ago and still stood majestically in this unique park. The drive continued along the forested highway with several large lakes before we arrived in Port Alberni.
PORT ALBERNI Port Alberni is located in the centre of Vancouver Island at the head of the Island’s longest inlet. A sign said it was the Salmon Capital of the World but so did Port Campbell so not sure which one is the right one! Port Alberni's call to fame though is that even though it is a
Port on the West Coast of the island it is nearer the
East Coast - so quite unique. Formerly known as the Alberni Canal this narrow inlet stretches from the Pacific Ocean at Barkley Sound for about 25 miles inland terminating at Port Alberni nearly cutting the island in half.
We were staying in a newly built wooden cabin at the Riverside Motel in the centre of the town and had a great welcome from the private
owners. The cabin was huge with two bedrooms and plenty of space as well as a small outdoor area - it was wet though so did not get much use of it. We were hoping to sail on the
MV Frances Barkley which is a working ship which delivers mail and supplies to Bamfield and Ucluelet but it was not sailing during our stay so we will have to come back another day to see more of the west coast of the island and of course the south as well.
We walked along the river to the newly built
Marina hoping to see some black bears which apparently come down to fish in the river but there were none although we did see a Bald Eagle and several Kingfishers. We strolled around the sleepy town but everywhere was very quiet - most of the tourists had gone and many attractions had closed down for the season. Although business was still busy for our motel which was full of visiting hockey teams so locals rather than tourists but bringing in good trade for the pleasant owners. We walked around Fisherman's Wharf and climbed some stairs up
a
Clock Tower which had a grand view of the inlet and the town itself including the old railway station. We walked along the platform which had a large water tower and hose used for when the trains required filling in the days of steam, on the side of the tank was a gauge so that the operators could see how full it was. We waited on the platform but the next train was a Father Christmas Special scheduled for early December so we would have to miss that! The last time we were on one of these trains was in Alresford, Hampshire, England when we took our granddaughter Maisie to see Father Christmas - we had wine and mince pies and she was given a small Christmas gift - we enjoyed it as much as she did and we are sure those using this train would do so also ... ... A nearby lighthouse overlooking the inlet was also closed but had some interesting and detailed signboards outlining the history of the area and detailing many stories of the days of old Port Alberni.
One day we drove to
Stamp River Park and on
the way noticed an elderly chap putting up H
alloween regalia all around his house and garden, he had a long row of pumpkins all the way along his drive and all around the house were large ghosts and skeletons draped in old white sheets and grotesque painted faces. We stopped and had a chat with him and he said he enjoyed decorating his home at this time of year and told us to come back at night when it was all lit up and would be much more entertaining!
We hiked around the Stamp River Park which had interesting display boards detailing the fish that return to these rivers each year. Stamp Falls showcases the annual run of thousands of Pacific salmon circling in the pool before ascending the fish ladders on their way to spawning beds. This natural phenomenon occurs every year, starting in late August with sockeye and continuing with coho and Chinook right into December so we were here at a good time. Lookout points along the river offered excellent views of the salmon fighting their way up the falls and fish ladders.There was even a small screen set up where you
could view the fish as they made it through the fish ladders themselves. We chatted to some locals and they said they had seen a Black Bear feeding on the fish across the river and we set off to see if we had any luck in spotting one. The trail were very muddy and slippery but we eventually found a route down to the river where the salmon were congregating in larger numbers slowly working their way up stream. It was a very scenic spot and we watched several Bald Eagles fishing nearby. We also then realised it was a good place for bears as we could have just walked into the water and caught our own salmon for tea - a very unprotected area, an 'ideal bear picnic area' and probably not a good place to stay as any bear could have approached us totally unseen, so we quickly turned tail and hiked back.
We hiked back to the fish ladder which had been built in the 1950s to help fish navigate upstream more easily to the spawning areas, rather than having to leap up the nearby fierce waterfall - it was
a bit like having an easy access staircase or a staged elevator.......... Although some fish missed this helpful ladder and were attempting to breech the falls with many of these failing in their attempt but quite a few made it nonetheless! The highlight for us was
watching the salmon ascending the falls through this narrow gap in the canyon, leaping clear of the turbulent water below, a spectacle that you could enjoy again and again as you encouraged each salmon to make it................ We had seen a similar, but smaller fish ladder at Rick’s Cabin on Thompson Sound a few weeks ago but nearly as many fish. Many fish ladders and spawning channels have been built to help maintain fish populations in Canada.
The weather was poor for the rest of our stay on Vancouver Island but it is now well into October and winter is approaching very fast. We did managed a few more long hikes and just know we are going to miss this lovely island could have enjoyed many more trails - we will definitely be back one day ... .... .... we caught the ferry back to the mainland and spent
a couple of days in Vancouver near the airport waiting for our flight out.
So after nearly three months in the country it was time for us to leave the western side of Canada and fly east to
Winnipeg in Manitoba for our last leg - see you there.
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taracloud
Tara Cloud
Sweet off season and off-the-beaten track!
You two have such a knack for finding perfect places! While others battle the southern island crowds, you've had the most magical explorations of the north islands--bears, eagles, woodpeckers, salmon and totem polls. As usual, your historical info and "trivia" (bald eagle balance) has been fantastic. A bit of my trivia is that in the US, potlucks, where everyone contributes a dish, are popular. Our word comes from "potlatch," which was also a time of distribution of goods. See you in polar bear country.