Travel guides tout Prince Rupert as Canada's gloomiest city and they weren't kidding. The sun failed to show all day, with a thick fog surrounding this town of around 15,000. No small wonder given it is so close to Alaska. We wandered around Cow Bay, a small historic shopping precinct near the wharves where we enjoyed our best coffee on the trip so far. Then Darren checked out the Museum of Northern British Columbia, that had another fine Indian display. Anna was over Museums at this point. There were also many totem poles throughout the town, which is only 105 years old. We figured that the weather here must affect locals' outlooks. The B & B host did not offer to pick us up from the ferry, which was five minutes' drive from his house, but waited up til 12.45am for our arrival by cab, which entailed a one hour wait!