Port Hardy to Prince Rupert

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We rose at 4:30 to batten down Vanita, shower, and make our ferry connection to Prince Rupert. The day dawned grey and the sun remained hidden for the entire journey. By the middle of the afternoon, the clouds started to give off a steady drizzle, which lasted until the end of the day.

It took them over an hour to load the ferry - a far cry from what we are used to on the southern routes. But they pack them in like sardines. The ferry was completely full; we figured it held about 150 vehicles, a few of which were RVs. Fortunately we were one of the first ones aboard, so we were able to get out of the car and start exploring the ship.

The ferry journey lasts a full 16 hours. We made one stop, to let off some kayakers in Bella Bella, around 12:30, but they were behind schedule, so we weren’t given an opportunity to get off and stretch our legs. OK by me, because I had drifted into a nap just before we docked. Roberta went onto the deck to watch the unloading process, but I remained asleep until we were underway again.

We had a tiny first breakfast (some cheese) before heading for the fairy terminal. Once aboard, we went to the buffet for a real meal. It was not bad, and the service was excellent. Our reserved seats were a bit of a disappointment - kind of narrow and less comfy that we’d hoped, but good enough to nap in from time to time, and right by the window for viewing.

The first leg of the journey was over open water, and I really enjoyed feeling the vessel move to the rhythm of the long, slow waves. Then we entered the Inside Passage, and were on flat water for most of the rest of the day.

We never tired of looking at the beautiful scenery, swathed in mist. It wasn’t exactly foggy, but there were lots of low-hanging clouds. It felt like The Mists of Avalon.

There were several whale sightings during the day - the bridge would announce them. We didn’t actually see whales ourselves until late in the day, when a small pod of orcas blew right near the vessel on the starboard side, where our seats were located. Earlier we saw a few dolphins. Very exciting.

Although we passed this way before, three years ago, when we were on the Alaska cruise, this time we made more opportunity to view nature sliding by our window. Taking this ferry gave us a very visceral sense of how large the wilderness is on the west coast of Canada. Very occasionally we’d see a small village - but not more than a handful in a 16 hour journey, at about 20 knots! I kept reminding myself how privileged I am to have been able to see this country in this way. It’s hard not to realize how helpless we’d be if something prevented our vessel from continuing on its journey. The forest goes right down to the high tide line, and looks nearly impenetrable from where we sat. And often we had a really clear view - in the narrow parts of the passage, it would be an easy swim (in a wetsuit!) to either shore.

I found myself wishing I had the power to live in these woods by my own wits. Perhaps I could learn. Maybe a lost native tribe would come down to the water if I were stranded here, and take me in and teach me how to live off this big, empty land.

We discovered that it was possible to get a tour of the bridge of this vessel, so we signed up, and were very glad we did. What an amazing place. It’s all electronic and automated. They have a little joystick that acts as a tiller, but most of the time it’s on automatic pilot. They put in the desired heading and the ship just steers in that direction. They did it several times while we were there. They were really accommodating, and answered all the questions we could think of to pose. Made me think how fun and interesting it might be to live a life aboard for awhile. Sort of like Mark Twain on the Mississippi.

We had a small lunch, and then enjoyed a substantial buffet dinner later in the evening - many choices, but I couldn’t resist the turkey dinner. There was a piano player in the buffet lounge, and we sat listening to him until nearly 8:30, chatting with some of the folks sitting around us. One couple, whose Harley was parked that morning right next to Vanita, we particularly enjoyed bantering with. They are from San Diego, live in Anchorage in the summer, on the Big Island in the winter, and in San Diego in the spring and fall. Tough life! Nice people.

By the time we docked and debarked, it was nearly midnight. We headed for Park Avenue RV Park, about half a mile from the ferry terminal. It’s condo camping, but did us just fine last night, and we’ll probably stay there again tonight, as it’s a quick jump to our ferry to the Queen Charlottes in the morning.

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Photos

Vanita being battened down
The pack them in like sardines on the Queen of the North, but VERY CAREFULLY. Our neighbors to the right were taking a Harley from San Diego to Anchorage.

Lighthouse
We passed many active lighthouses on the Inside Passage, but this was the largest.

Tour of the Bridge
The electronics were amazing. If Titanic had only had them.

Comments

[Nancy Strider]

Like the Orient Express
Hi Roberta and Katherine - I've been enjoying going through from the beginning and what an adventure. Really enjoying seeing what you are accomplishing in terms of sitting down and writing so often -- and getting the journal out the door! Especially a VAN door. Your description of the Ferry ride is great -- and I especially like that you went up to play on the Bridge. Nancy S.