WHALES! On our way to Prince Rupert last week, we started to see more whales, spotting a humpback in the Fraser Reach, a few orcas in Wright Sound, and some dolphins or seals feasting in the distance. Now on our downward slide south, we traverse virgin waters for Ama, heading west towards the open ocean but still skirting the Browning Entrance into Petrel Channel, and the first encounter with any other creatures, is whales! When there are whales on both sides of the bow, and you can hear their breath, “whooshing” out and up into giant plumes, the spray falling on our decks, we know we have found whales! And now we are too close. Though we are barely 100 meters from shore, humpback whales are on both sides of our boat. Suddenly Ama feels very
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