On my way to Cochrane

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True colours-Coeur de Pirate

I feel really weird anytime someone else tells my story, especially when I am around. Because they make it sound like it’s brave, or unbelievable, or harder than it truly is. I still have some difficulty putting words on the why and how, but the way I live and experience life isn’t that fantastic. It’s just how my personality met the ‘I want’ of my heart and made it happen while caring for my brain and happiness.
Because I am not on vacation or just ‘out for a break’, I am living life my own way. It involves moving a lot, instability and way more than one description. I cannot say ‘hi, I’m Hélène and I do this for a living, or I work for this company’, but I can talk about my perceptions and the place I have seen, I believe in love and discovery and I share my soul with wonderful people all around the world that have made my world a little different in their own way.

So. I left Belgrade Montana on September 14th , around 2h30 in the afternoon.
I biked around 30miles and stopped for the night in Townsend, got rained on and a storm broke off in the next day’s early morning.
Tuesday, September 15th
I stayed at the camping all day trying to get my stuff to dry between rain blasts and left around 3h in the afternoon, biked around 30miles to get to East Helena.
Wednesday, September 16th
It makes no sense to charge 20$ to let someone pitch a tent on a grassy patch beside a freeway AND a train track. It’s just mean. It was cold and rainy again so I stayed there, reading and meditating until 4h, and then biked in the shy sunlight up to Helena and found a campground. When asking for directions in a convenience store, the clerk helped me and then asked if I needed anything and would be able to keep warm at night. Maybe because I’m young or seeing a traveler gets people’s generosity out, but I am always amazed to see how much some people are willing to go out of their way to help travelers.
Thursday, September 16th
The weather was still really cold and grey, it hailed in the middle of the day. But I wanted to see the capital of the state so I left and biked around town for the day. Great Ape’s crepes are wonderful. Mount Helena is a really fun day hike with tones of trails, I didn’t walk the same trail twice while I was there.
Friday, September 17th
Same thing but discovered a cute little bakery on Park Avenue and a jazzy bistro where you can observe the cooks while they work their magic. Can’t remember the name. I also contacted a Warmshower host with success for the first time. This website is wonderful for bike-packers, and I am really happy I got to use it. So I had a place to stay that was neither expensive, nor had anything to do with sleeping outside in the cold.
Saturday, September 18th
Hiked in Helena all day and then biked 10miles out of town to meet Tony and Chris, my hosts. Became friends really easily, the fact that we share a common interest for DIY, travelling and Hiking/Biking made it even better.
Sunday, September 19th
Woke up in a warm and dry place, got to drink hot coffee and stay in pjs for a while. It’s always fun to enjoy a little stability and ‘normality’ every once in a while. In the afternoon, Tony and I drove 20miles to a really beautiful hike, the Trout Creek Canyon. The colors of fall and wonderful rock formations where amazing. Hiking with a dog on a trail I could never have gotten to on my bike made me realize how limiting my ways could be. But then again, Montana will still be there for a few years, I can always come back…
Monday, September 20th
Tony drove me to town in the morning with my bike and I hiked and walked around all day. I also finally bought a camping stove. Done with the ever cold food. It truly is a beautiful city, quiet and respectful. I really appreciated it, would not live there, but come back through it if I’m back in the area.
Tuesday, September 21st
After work, Chris, Tony and Chris’s son Steve drove all over to Lincoln town just so I would not have to bike the Flesher Pass, which was really steep, curvy and narrow. We ate ice cream and said good bye in the pink light of the sun setting on the mountains. Those are good friends that I will keep contact with and made my time in Montana even more enjoyable. So I camped in a deserted campground, officially back on the road.
Wednesday, September 22nd
Lincoln is a really cute town with pretty colors and mountains and lively streets. I left around 11h and biked to Seeley Lake, 50miles further on Highway 200. Everything was tainted of red, yellow and greens. The road did not have the best shoulder I have seen, but it is a pretty popular bike ride, so cars know you are around. I briefly stopped in Ovando and fell under it’s charm; in the middle of mountains and forests, this little place looks like a town where you want your kids to grow old and know nothing about the craziness of civilization. Seeley was a really welcomed sight; the road was not bad at all, but I had not bike that much for a while. Both campgrounds on the west side of the lake were closed(with no signs telling you except the closed gates) but the one on the east side was open with no services, so no fee. And it is worth it, from this side the sun sets over the lake and it is quite beautiful. No bear boxes though. The night was warmer than the week before, but I still appreciated the second summer sleeping bag Tony gave me, it makes temperature management easier and more comfortable.
Thursday, September 23rd
Spent the day in town, went for a hike at Morrell Falls. Short and sweet trail, quiet and not crowded. But biking to the trail head was a pain; 8miles of dirt road with ups and downs and hunters drinking on four wheeler. I then got back to the camping and drank hot tea while soaking both legs in the freezing waters and gazing at the sunset. That’s also where I saw a cougar, not 20meters from me. And it saw me, stopped and looked. Then a noise in the forest had it run away. I do not know how to react to big animals, well I do, but it is really impressive to see and doubt I could keep my brain working if I saw one again. They are truly beautiful animals.
Friday, September 24th
Left Seeley around 10h30 and made my way to Swan Lake, 57 miles away. The mountains were getting closer, more impressive, the road was mesmerizing; dangerous on such a small shoulder and large curves. Swan Lake is dreamy but empty. There is no grocery store, just a bar, a lodge and a campground. A couple came to see me and said that they had seen me earlier on the road and wanted to know some stuff and talk about bike packing. I love when it happens.
Saturday, September 25th
Stayed in town and meditated by the water. Also found a host from Warmshower in Columbia Falls for the next day. Read a lot.
Sunday, September 26th
Left around 10h30 for Columbia Falls, in a short 45miles. The road got safer, and then worst for the last 20 miles. Stopped for a coffee in Big Fork’s distillery. Lovely place with young cheerful staff. Quite fun. Got lost and then found by my host’s sister in Columbia Falls. Small town, but well placed. Just out of Glacier and surrounded by mountains. Once again my host was really cool, lived with the whole family and they were having a birthday party when I got there. Also met another Warmshower host, who got me Jared’s number; we talked about their past bike-packing experiences and the big one in South America that they are planning for 2016. Sounds exciting and is giving me ideas. Haha. We also went out with the whole family to try to catch the blood moon eclipse. Pretty sweet.
Monday, September 27th
Went on a gorgeous hike on Columbia Mountain. Challenging 7miles not crowded at all and the view on top lets you dream of Glacier and all of those impressive mountains around the area. Got back and talked about books and map with my new friend. Long story short he brought down a box filled with books to give away, I took twelve. Just because I can’t say no to good books ..
Tuesday, September 28th
Left the house around two, aiming for the Apgar Campground in Glacier National Park. Made it after getting really confused in the back roads, which are all dirt and poor signage. Biking the North Fork is way more enjoyable than going by the highway. Pitched my tent and then went to watch the sun set on the Lake Macdonald with the background of high peeks and transiting trees. Must have been where I got my cold, the one that tried to kill me for a few days.
Wednesday, September 29th
Got up with my head burning and heavy. Made it to the Avalanche Lake trail head and enjoyed this easy and beautiful but crowded little hike. Going back to the campsite felt impossible even though it was only 16miles.
Thursday, September 30th
Didn’t think I could make it, but I did. With Jared and Dave we had talked about biking up the Logan Pass together and it scared me; I have not been able to stay on my bike on any passes I have met, and got rides over the ones I could. I lack the strength, especially with all of my bags and gear. And then I had a cold… But we made it, left all my bags in the pick-up truck and we biked it, in an hour and a half. Dave could not come but Seth made it instead. Up on top, the guys rode back down and I stayed up for a hike to Hidden lake. Went for a dive because you know, hiking with wet hair is the best way to get rid of a cold. Seth rode the other way down, toward Ste-Mary’s while me and Jared followed in the car. I’m too scared of the speed to do it, but seeing all the burned forest mix with the frost and the colors was impressive. I camped in Ste-Mary’s campground and said goodbye to my new friends. Hope to see them again, maybe on another bike trip 😊
Friday, October 1st
Still feeling sick, I biked to the town to realize there is no wi-fi around, or no tap water. Because of the frost and the road construction. So instead of hiking and sticking around I biked to Babb, had the best strawberry/rhubarb pie ever and rented a campsite at the Duck Lake Lodge a bit out of town. I though about it and I really wanted to see Many Glaciers, so I would stay there for a day or two and then make it to Canada. That night it rained.
Saturday, October 2nd
It was not rain. I got up with my tent and bike covered in snow, and my cold growing ever more aggressive. I did not move that day, didn’t have it in me to try my tiny little road tires on the wet road. I stayed in the lodge and read all day, so it was not so bad. I just feel a little heartbreak thinking about Many Glacier. I’ll have to come back.
Sunday, October 3rd
It snowed again and the lodge is closed on Sundays, so I had no where to stay dry and wait, so I packed, tried as best as I could to let my tent dry up, and finally left around 1h. Right before hitting the border I met another couple of travelers, they had started their hike in Mexico 5months ago and walked the Great Divide. The sound of their voices was a smiling one; you could feel their pride and relief. I then made it back to my country. I was so excited to see the mythical West part of Canada. Such a wonderful country. Looking back I could still see the heights of Glacier looking down on me. I am not done with you. I made it to Cardtson through frozen country land and cold sunlight. This town is dead, pretty, but when the only thing open is a Dairy Queen or a Subway, you know you lost something of the soul of the town. Rented a motel room because this cold was getting to annoying. Hot bath and tv night with hot tea saved my life. You got to stay logical. If you can’t breath you can’t bike.
Monday, October 4th
I left Cardston around 11h15, after a long conversation about ‘the importance of living your own adventure and loving what you do’ with the cleaning lady. Very enlightening. I was feeling better, so I though I could make a 50miles/80km day like before, so I found a Couchsurfing host in the town of Pincher Creek and planned my route. Alberta is hilly, I don’t think there is a flat area bigger than 3km straight in the whole province. Alberta is incredibly windy, I learned a lot about that the day after. But while I was riding and realizing this was harder than planned, just after hitting Mountain View, I understood why I was there and broke my neck trying to conceive how I could have been so blind to no realize where I was. The Rockies where there, imposing, massive, elegant and full of wonders. Covering the west skyline with their sisters and uniqueness. It was gorgeous. So much that I missed my exit and ended up in Waterton Lakes, making my route 15km longer. Didn’t think I would ever find the town, but a fellow cyclist met around 5h told me I was 15minutes from town. I made it in five; the power of thirst and tiredness you know. The whole time my new friend was kind of trying to keep up, and I felt sorry, he seemed like a nice man, but I had told my host I would be there at 4h. Once in town, Edwin, the biker caught up and we chatted a little, if I needed it, I had a place to stay. Went for dinner on my own, realized Alberta was quite expensive and got tired of waiting for a reply from the Couchsurfing guy. Went to Edwin and Alice’s place and it was one of the best move I ever made. Wonderful people with open minds and stories to tell. I didn’t stay long enough, these friends were rich in good feelings and laughs. And fresh baked biscuits make me happy.
Tuesday October 5th
Alice told me she had contacted some friends of hers living 30km away and that they could host me that same night; perfect for a recuperating day! Said bye to new friends again and left around 1h toward Lundbreck and over. The wind on that day made me swear and question my strength. I was going nowhere way too slowly. I even saw a sign warning semi-trucks that the wind could turn them over. I learned later that Bob, my new host, had those put in place four years ago because the Highway 22 was becoming scarier every winter with all those trucks losing control. I made it, but I could not have ridden further; it was the perfect distance for that day. My hosts, Bob and Janet, were wonderful. We had the kind of supper that turns into chatting around a cup of tea and saying at least five time that it’s getting late and you should go to bed but you keep on chatting because your having too much fun and your new friends are smart, energetic and interesting people. I learned about religion, american’s policies toward citizens living outside the country, tarantulas and bears, leather work and the science behind the wind gusts of Alberta. And kite flying world record. And tomato and hops growing. You know. Stuff.
Wednesday, October 6th
Said goodbye again, richer in stories and ideas than the day before and left for my first 100km ever. The road was pretty and safe. I made it, but barely. Ended up in the cute little town of Longview after doubting my capacities for the last two hours. But it was pretty and hilly, and I left with fresh baked bread and chocolate zucchini cake made by Janet, it got me through it. How much can one love food so much? And, yeah, made it.
Thursday, October 7th
Me and my sister agreed on meeting each other in Banff on the next Monday. I was almost there and she was ahead of me. I though only 75km laid between me and Cochrane, but it ended up being more like 100km. Started my day thinking I would make it but it was too much for the day after 100km; I had to stop in Bragg Creek, 30km from Cochrane and I could not lift my legs anymore. Lucked out and found a ride with a barista from the private café where I stopped, I slept in Cochrane that night. I feel weird to have not bike the last distance. Like I had given up or something. But I did also learn that I do have to allow my body to recuperate, I am not an athlete and I am not there yet. It’s been a few days now and I can just say that going up a flight of stairs is not painful anymore.
Friday, October 8th
Met with my Workaway Host, Susanne, in the early afternoon in Cochrane and she drove me to the Ranch. It clicked really fast with the family. The place is gorgeous and filled with life. I’ll stay there for a few weeks and then move on to work in Banff. It feels good to stop moving a little and change the rhythm.

I am proud of that adventure and I learned a lot. 540miles/870km in 24 days, met a lot of people and stayed alive. Every time I get back on my bike after a long while I have a period of doubt where I ask myself if I truly want to do it, if leaving my established comfort and new friends is worth it, but it is like that for a lot of things. I just have to go for it and get back in my zone and after the first few miles I find myself smiling and reassured; I’m in my zone, my world where I feel alive and happy as I have ever been.
It’s all about balance and staying aware.
So many things to see, so many places to be.
Alberta, show me what you got.

Elsa-Bill Evans

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Comments

[Michel]

Brave
Nothing more to say than: :)