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Published: June 26th 2017
Geo: 51.1752, -115.573
Continuing east on highway 1 brought me to the incredible Canadian Rockies. Maybe it's just because they're new and it was the first time seeing them, but there is something more grand, more majestic, more regal about the Canadian Rockies than the Colorado Rockies (sorry guys).
Passing through Yoho National Park, I took a small detour and hiked up to Sherbrooke Lake. A pretty easy hike gradually climbing through dense forest, occasional views of mountain peaks showing through the trees. The lake, as do many of the lakes and river in the area, had a greenish hue. This is from light reflecting off of tiny particles of rock formed from glaciers grinding stone together. One end of the lake was a jam and mess of hundreds of floating tree trunks, which I precariously hopped and climbed through to the other side. A fun balancing act!
A little further east is Lake Louise - a lake that has such a brilliant green color, it glows as if lit from underneath by giant neon lights. All of these lakes really do look like they are emanating light from within. I remember seeing similar colors in some of the waters of Switzerland.
Finally, my stop
for the next couple days - Banff. Behind the city - Mt Rundle, one of many mountains in the area that looks like a giant ramp reaming from the earth ready to launch great shuttles into the sky. The town itself - eh. A very touristy town designed for people that have way too much money for vacation and like to spend it on overpriced food, stupid sweatshirts and mugs, fancy jewelry, and hideous art.
The first day in the area I got a late start. I was tired, and felt that a cold had been chasing me around for the past week or so. I decided to take a relatively easy hike up to Bourgeau Lake. It was a pleasant, long steady hike through forested mountainsides, gaining a little steepness and you climb up the walls adjacent to a series of waterfalls. Across a lush meadow and to the lake - resting at the base of Mt Bourgeau, some 2000 feat higher. Mt Brett stood to the south. A perfect place to stop and rest and enjoy some lunch, defending it from the brave chipmunks, overly fattened by unsuspecting hikers. I decided, what the hell, might as well keep going.
Up a steep ascent that would prove to be nearly treacherous on the way down, beyond a couple more pristine alpine lakes, and up to Harvey Pass - with amazing views to the north and south. It was nearly 3 by now, and if I had more time (and if I trusted my knees and legs to get me there), I would loved to have continued to the top of the peak which, I was told, provides amazing 360 degree views of the valleys and peaks beyond. Even so, I hiked about 12.5 miles with over 3000 feet of gain. Not bad for an "easy day" and a near-noon start.
Back in town, I was in desperate need of a shower. I went to the river on the side of town. Just a few hundred feet up river of me was a public swimming area. Just beside the river ran a popular walking/jogging/biking path. I went a few feet to the side to partially conceal my deeds behind some willows, but anyone from the path still had clear view of me. I was in a bathing suit. I didn't care. Easily a dozen people walked by as I waded in the
water, rag in hand, chest convulsing any time I had to splash myself with cold water to rinse. A canoe went by. I waved. Changed into dry clothes and went back to a bench along the path for dinner - a loaf of bread, some cheese, summer sausage, and a single roma tomato. Take a bit of each and, voila! A sandwich! Dessert was a peach. I received further strange looks as people walked by. I have come to realize, accept, and completely love that I have totally become "that guy".
Not a big fan of town, I was pretty excited when I came across a girl busking on the street. She's from Ireland, has been in Canada for 17 months, Banff for a few months, and currently playing on the streets a few nights a week is how she makes her money. I sat for a couple hours and watched her case fill and fill. She was incredible. An amazing voice, and such intensity. I sat for hours, as did another guy, just listening. I got up after a while and introduced myself to the other young guy who had been standing there for so long. "I figured I might
as well meet the other member of the unofficial fan club." Alex, from Germany. He lived and worked in Vancouver for the past 10 months, further travels eventually got him to Calgary, and he was hitchhiking back toward Vancouver.
Once she was done playing, her voice and throat surely on the verge of bleeding, Alex and I went to a nearby bar for a drink or two. After ordering an $8 beer and a couple minutes, the band went on. They were not that good. It felt like four buddies who were just getting together to jam, and just happened to be on a stage, amps blasting and pumping through the PA system. I guess they were good enough to stay for a couple beers, and each beer probably made them more tolerable. At one point, Johnny Be Good came on. Instantly Alex had his drink on the table and rushed to the dance floor, arms and legs shooting and flailing in all directions, a full-body representation of a heart attack. The song was done and he came quietly back.
He was staying at the Y and, as said before, had no vehicle. We made plans to meet up in the morning
and do a good hike somewhere. I picked him up in the morning at we drove back toward Lake Louise for a hike up through the Larch Valley and to Sentinel Pass. Due to recent bear activity, there was a four-person minimum for hiking groups. We weren't aware of this until we got to the parking lot and a couple asked if they could join us. Brandon and Tessa, from San Francisco. Just moments later another couple came up - Finton and Marry-Ellen, living in northern Idaho. The six of us took off, picked a rather quick pace, which everyone seemed to perfectly keep up with. We all admitted that we were scared to death to get stuck with some super slow hiker. Similar to my hike the day before - a long, gradual hike through the trees to a gorgeous meadow with jaw-dropping views of majestic peaks in all directions, beyond treeline and a small alpine lake, and switchbacking up the steep pass. We found an overhang just above the pass where, when sitting, your feet practically dangled over a massive cliff. We enjoyed this for nearly an hour. We picked up a stray, Michelle from Calgary, on the
way down, which only took 3/4 the time to get up.
After battling the surge of day walkers laden with SLRs and campers to get out of the parking lot, we repeated the battle a couple more times so that Alex could see Lake Louise. Worth the battle. It really is an amazing sight. We both took our boots and socks off and waded into the lake a little way. Dirty and smelly, carrying our boots back to the truck, barefoot and happy with rolled up pant legs, we were a pair of "that guy"s.
A return drive back to Banff, blasting Hell Freezes Over by the Eagles. After another fun, random meeting with a great person, I dropped my new German friend off back at the Y, got some gas and an energy drink, as was on the road to big, hot, flat, country Calgary.
As always, tons of good pictures below. Take a few minutes to browse!
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It is going to be hard going back to being just a regular guy instead of "that guy" - especially after Burning Man!