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Middle East » Syria » West » Latakia December 22nd 2004

I finally have pictures. I decided to splurge on the hotel last night, paying $6 rather than $4 for a room with private shower and cable tv. There was a really loud noise emanating from a water pump which threatened to cause hearing problems, but the manager assured me it would be over before 7pm, so I head out to explore. I got back around 1am and the noise was still going on. I asked the guys at the reception to turn it off and they were like "oh, sure, yeah we'll do it right away", so I go back to my room... 10 minutes pass, nothing. Back downstairs to the reception: "what's up?" "oh, right", and someone gets up and goes to the electrical shed, so I figure maybe they were just dragging their heels ... read more
Castle in the Desert
Desert Dwellers
Ruined Mosque

Middle East » Syria » West » Latakia December 21st 2004

Most women in the old city of Aleppo wore some form of veil: the most common being a head scarf covering the hair. Some of the younger girls would cover their hair but wear tight jeans, which was interesting. A more common sight would be long flowy black clothing that sits on top of regular clothing, and commonly referred to as the "chadoor". It is here in Syria where I've first seen women with the entire face covered, essentially with a thin black cloth that gives one the eerie sensation that the person has their head screwed on backwards or are walking down the street backwards. Having said that, one of the most common sights in Aleppo's souq, apart from self-proclaimed homosexuals, is sexy lingerie hanging prominently in storefronts. Some people defend the hijab by suggesting ... read more

Middle East » Syria » North » Aleppo December 18th 2004

Aleppo, Syria. This is my 6th day in Syria. Spent the first couple days in the desert town of Deir Ez-Zur, in the eastern side of the country, with the Euphrates river running through the middle of town. I was pleasantly surprised at how friendly people are and how cheap everything is (comparing prices with Turkey, that is). People seeing me walking down the street would make me stop and drink tea with them, communicating with sign language and the few words of english they may know. Actually, the people on the street here seem to speak more english than their Turkish counterparts. The hotel I was staying in cost a whopping $4 for a single room (compare to the $10 I was paying in Turkey), had a really friendly manager, but no heating, which really ... read more

Middle East » Turkey » Southeastern Anatolia » Mardin December 11th 2004

I'm in Mardin, the final stop before Syria. Perched on the side of a hill, crowned with a castle containing an immense radar dome spying on the middle east on behalf of NATO, packed with historical honey-colored houses lining crooked streets, Mardin is a real beauty. At least the old city is. There's the obligatory concrete sprawl, but it's kept in the back so as to not ruin the view. And the view is beautiful: an unspoilt plain, stretching out as far as the eye can see and beyond, into Syria. The weather has been clear for the last couple of days, and that makes all the difference in the world in terms of my perception of the place... Too bad it started snowing tonight. Mardin shuts down early, even earlier than other towns I've been ... read more
The battlements of Diyarbakir
Mardin, and Beyond
Good Ahmed

Middle East » Turkey » Southeastern Anatolia » Diyarbakir December 7th 2004

Greetings to my loyal following. The past few weeks have found me extremely lazy and/or too busy to sit down and blog. Now that I finally find time to do so I don't have any pictures with me (left them all in Istanbul), so this will be a boring blog without pictures (which means Beybora won't be reading it). Since I last blogged I have: Been to Cappadocia Cappadocia was awesome: Goreme, with deserted valleys full of phallic towers with houses and churches carved into them, trudging through knee-deep snow all day long, occassionally taking refuge in a cave (which, I may add, are surprisingly warm). Ihlara Valley, in striking contrast to the plain and barren surroundnig countryside, the walls of which are full of deserted monasteries with vandalized awe-inspiring frescoes and paintings. Those monks really ... read more

Middle East » United Arab Emirates » Abu Dhabi December 7th 2004

My mum had been going on at me for ages to visit the UAE with her, well, last December I did and I was not disappointed. Those Arabs really have got it right, the sun was shinning every day, the food was top quality, it was so safe and their vision and innovasion is really out of this world. We stayed with local friends in Abu Dhabi and Al Ain, and we visited Dubai for a few days. Check out these pics: ... read more
Henna me up!
Us ladies at the wedding
Traditional lights

Middle East » Turkey » Marmara » Eskisehir November 26th 2004

My first experience abroad has been so far undoubtedly, a success. So far, so good :) I get to teach in a highly respectable private school in Eskisehir, improve my teaching skills, make loads of friends and travel now and then to different parts of Turkey. What better treatment could I expect from life? :) I love smoking nargile, the one with apple flavour is my favourite, love playing backgammon, so popular here, though I still need to improve and so far am a rubbish player :((. This is a short entry, just posting some pictures. Enjoy!... read more
Eskisehir- center
strolling away
evening out with @

Middle East » Lebanon » Baalbek November 20th 2004

Let me start out by saying that Lebanon is one of my favorite countries on the planet. I didn’t see all of it, and it is not that large to begin with. However, what I did see was truly amazing. When I first found out that the travel study component of my semester in Egypt would be spending a week in Turkey, a little less than a week in Syria, and a whole week just in Beirut, I thought that the scale was a little tipped. NO way! Well worth the time. But I am getting ahead of myself. First things first! From the Syrian side, crossing into the Bekaa Valley was not much of an ordeal. Changing money into lire was straightforward, and none of us had any stamps in our passports that would serve ... read more
Baalbek Ruins
Me and a few youths on their way to a Hezbollah Rally
Rock Sizes

Middle East » Turkey November 16th 2004

Arriving in the small town of Ilhara, we were dismayed to find that all but ones of the pensions were closed as the season had officially ended. Of course, the one that was open would have to be 1 kilometre back up the steep hill that the bus had just brought us down. We lugged the bags back up the hill until some boys on their way home from school came and took Lindas' from her for the steepest section. They seemed happy with the 10p each that I bestowed upon them. People come to Ilhara to see the Ilhara valley, which is fundamentally misnamed as it's not a valley at all. It is much more of a gorge, canyon or ravine consisting of a fissure in the earth 15 kilometres in length between the towns ... read more
Ilhara Valley
Ilhara Valley
Ilhara Valley

Middle East » Turkey » Central Anatolia » Konya November 15th 2004

Bedreddin's adventures are now featured on the "Highlights" section of the main travelblog.org page. Yeah, baby! The roughly 2 weeks since my last blog were spent in the stupor that comes over me when I go to Istanbul. During that time I met old friends, sat around a lot and picked up a new time-killer pastime: learning the Ottoman script. The Ottoman empire used (a slightly modified version of) the arabic script, but Ataturk did away with that with a wave of the omnipotent hand. The result in practice is that people nowadays are unable to read family albums dating from before 1928... it's a real shame. Apart from that, I'm hoping it will be a great time killer and come in handy in the rest of the muslim world, where I will at least be ... read more
In letters of gold...
Pedestrian Traffic on the Galata Bridge
The idea of a mosque




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