Crossroads of Kusadasi, Missing the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus

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This was another one of those, “It seemed like a good idea at the time” moments when the alarm sounded at 5AM to wake us up for our 7:15AM tour. My phone alarm rang a second time five minutes later; but, it was across the room charging on the desk by the only two outlets in the room. We brought a distribution cable with us so we can charge more than just the two outlets, which we seem to make use of with two laptops, two cell phones, and camera batteries. We went to the Lido and were among the first to arrive. I had the Irish Oatmeal and still miss that they don’t offer the Swiss muesli as they did in Alaska last Spring. They also don’t have sliced bananas; but, I did finally find where they put out the fresh bananas. I’ve found that you need to check them by feel; although, they all look green and freshly picked many have multiple bruises and soft spots. Sharon got French Toast.



Our group was the second one called, and we made our way to the gang plank with our Pink-8 sticker. Just short of the exit, we were stopped. At first we thought it was so a handicapped person could be helped down the gangplank, possibly with a wheel chair; but, the delay seemed much too long. We finally realized that a German cruise ship was pulling up next to us on the other side of our very narrow berth. “Mein Schiff” was written on its hull in flowing script. We could see the heavy ropes becoming taut and then relaxing under tension as the ship was secured against the berth. It was the script across the bow that amused me, and although the translation makes perfect sense being appropriate for a ship, I’m thinking it might make English speaking tourists think twice about taking a vacation on a cruise ship that declares itself as “Fahrtwind”. I’m just saying… Wind Traveler is one thing, but passing gas quite another.



Our guide warned us that we would encounter people selling fake Rolex watches or name brand perfume; but, that these would all be fake. He also warned against buying the Turkish Delight from people walking up to you on the street; because, there is no telling what the quality of the product or even what the product might actually be.



It was a bit of a drive by bus over the alluvial plain to get to the sites at Ephesus. In the time of Jesus this had all been part of the sea, but the eons of silt being deposited had pushed the sea back. Jesus had chartered John with the care of his mother. They had originally come to Ephesus to spread the Gospel. Ephesus was the third largest town in the Roman Empire (after Rome and Alexandria) and was also the center of the worship of Artemis with the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus (One of the 7 wonders of the world). They thought Ephesus would be a sleepy little Hamlet but this crossroads city was anything but that. John and Mary founded 7 churches in the area and we visited the house that Mary resided. Only the original foundation remains today, but reconstruction has recreated the home for visitors to walk into and view. The original foundation is composed of a redder looking stone varying six to twenty-four inches above the ground, and one can see the jagged separation between it and the wall reconstructed above it. Sharon left a donation and took a candle and lit it outside where some other candles were already burning. Afterwards we went to where we would celebrate mass today, one of the 7 churches still worshipping in this region after 2,000 years. The priest is from Poland and celebrates many masses in many languages; and, he started our mass in Dutch. He smiled, apologized, and restarted in English. His was a very poignant homily beseeching peace in the region and help for the many refugees seeking only peace and a better life.



There are four sites for the city of Ephesus. The first site was the original settlement, long before the time of John and Mary. It was satisfactory until malaria became a problem. The second site was just a bit inland from the first, and is the site of the Temple of Artemis. This too was satisfactory until again malaria became a problem. A bit farther away from the Temple, the people were reluctant to move here at first because this is where they’d been burying their dead for years; but, eventually they moved (it was better than dying from malaria). This third site is the one that we visited. Malaria was to come again, and there would be a fourth site for Ephesus which was back to the first site. When malaria was to come to that site, the years had abated the marshes around the first site and people moved back there. Archeological work is underway at all of the sites piecing together marble ruble left by earthquakes and invaders. Where 40% of the original components for a structure can be found, reconstruction is permitted and missing elements can be replaced by concrete to support the structure. In this way many columns and in some cases connecting roof elements have been pieced together and can be seen rising out of a massive field of marble ruble that is four times the size of the ruins at Pompeii.



Our guide showed us the stadium with its part Greek and part Roman influences. There were a number of water palaces and public baths. One of the public baths was located closest to the port and was for incoming sailors to use before they would be permitted to enter Ephesus. The largest line was to see the public privy, which was only for men, so I can only imagine that the ancient aristocracy of Ephesus must be turning over in their graves at all of the women lined up to see what was once a Gentlemen Only Ladies Forbidden social event. The interior walls were lined with seats on a continuous marble slab with 48 holes. Beneath the marble enclosed seats their waste water supply from nearby baths provided a sort of continuous flush and that ambient noise, our guide told us, would mask any other bodily sounds that might occur. There were no stalls or other separation between each individual hole in the marble (and not much separation between adjacent holes). Our guide promised us that we would go on and see the sewer system next. Sharon said that her brother-in-law Dennis would love this tour. Our guide said that in ancient times, the only problem one would have with this facility, is that in the morning the marble could be really cold. He imagined, that if you were high up in the aristocracy, you might send one of your bodyguards ahead to warm things up for you.



It was a sometimes confusing meandering path thru bazaar like area to wind our way back to ship. Several storefront signs, some in neon offered GENUINE FAKE WATCHES. Sharon wanted to get some chocolate at one store that promised just that (it actually had much more than just candy). Sharon picked out a couple milk chocolate bars and a couple dark chocolate bars. We waited behind someone in line and the salesgirl tried to ring up that sale, but somehow couldn’t. She eventually directed us to another salesgirl, who was already helping a third person checkout, saying “This machine no work so good, she help you.” As it turns out, her machine no work so good either. We must have waited a combined ten minutes before Sharon just put her purchases down on the counter, and we left to board the ship.



We went up to the Lido for lunch. Sharon got the roast beef with mashed potatoes and beans. I got a build your own pizza from the New York Pizza place on the stern of the Lido Deck: mushroom and tomato in white sauce with basil, olive oil, mozzarella & arugula. Was very close to Wolfgang Puck’s; except, that one is made with goat cheese. It was excellent, and this is much better than the way it was when you would select slices from pre-made pizzas. You always get your pizza hot, and the thin crust is really well done.



There was no Team Trivia today, so we never got to the Exploration Café to do today’s Suduko. We were more focused on getting ready for dinner at the Pinnacle. Did I mention that it is our anniversary. Sharon says fifth; but, I’m telling people 60 (months). I dressed up in my suit, and Sharon handed me her room key for safe keeping since she didn’t have any pockets. I told her to remember that I’m putting her key with mine in my small wallet. We had a 7PM reservation; because, we weren’t sure exactly when we would be getting back from today’s rather long tour. The complimentary appetizer was a fried mushroom ravioli, and Sharon didn’t want to try hers so I had two. I also had the jumbo shrimp cocktail, cocktail sauce on the side, with an additional side of fresh horseradish. I was served 4 shrimp (and 3 of them truly were super-jumbo sized, the other not so much). The horseradish must not have been that strong because I could quite get the punch I was looking for in the cocktail sauce, as I had in Alaska; still, I enjoyed this appetizer very much. And I had the lobster bisque which I enjoyed immensely, and which I’d say is the best that I’ve ever had! I went with something different for my entrée and ordered the roasted pumpkin risotto. It was good to try once, tasty, incredibly filling, but not a dish that I think I’ll feel an urge to have again. Sharon ordered the slightly larger filet, and I had some of that as well. I had French fries and Brussel sprouts as my sides and Sharon had mashed potatoes and Baby carrots. The waitress corrected her and said, tonight we have adult carrots. I ordered the chocolate lava cake with vanilla ice cream. Sharon had the Very Berry Jerry Garcia Baked Alaska (which was huge). I still miss the chocolate soufflé that they used to serve in the Pinnacle, but the chocolate lava cake is very good too.





We were among the first to arrive in the Piano Bar for the 9 PM piano bar movie trivia theme song challenge. There weren’t many people playing to start with. We were three questions into the game, and I think that we had three wrong answers, when the lady (and her husband) at the next table invited us to play with her. It was clear that she was the player; as, her husband soon excused himself and retired to the cabin. We joined her, and she was very good. Sharon did know a couple that she hadn’t come up with yet, and Sharon said something that triggered her memory to get another answer. When we were grading another team’s paper, it was clear, we should have teamed with them as well. They got the answers that we didn’t get, and we got the ones that they didn’t get, but we got many more than they did, and we actually won the challenge! We got three cookbooks, which we split, a deck of cards, and she got a tumbler for drinks (which was all she was really after). She’d evidently already won one of the cookbooks previously. And they are heavy cookbooks and I’m wondering how we’re going to get them home!

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