Dalyan - our own home for 2 weeks

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Monday 18th October 2010

A very wet morning greeted us in Rhodes and we have to be out of our room by midday with the boat leaving at 4.30pm - not an afternoon to look forward to.

By lunchtime it had eased off a bit with the rain coming straight down, our Gortex jackets giving us some protection.

We left the luggage behind and wandered off into the New Town area to find somewhere to have lunch and just sit around until 3.30pm, when we are due at the wharf. We found a cafe and spent some time just musing on what we had done up to now on the trip, watched how the traffic was so different to at home with people parking just about anywhere there was a space and no-one getting excited by it, and waited for the rain to stop.

Eventually it did stop and even though we were much too early for the 4.30pm boat ended up at the wharf at 2.30. The boat was there and people were boarding so we went through Immigration after paying our 30 euro departure tax. Judy stopped at the Duty Free to pick up a bottle of Scotch (9.80 euro) as we have been told spirits are expensive in Turkey. On boarding we were then told that the boat was leaving at 3.30pm! So much for the accuracy of the travel agents. We would really have been irate if we had missed this one after what happened yesterday.

On our arrival at Marmaris at just after 4.30 after a fast, smooth crossing, we bought our visas and went through Immigration very quickly. As we passed through the "Nothing to Declare" exit we were pulled over for inspection. The shopping bag we carried was searched for alcohol but as it only contained a third of a bottle of Scotch, and a quarter of Ouzo we were let through. The customs chap actually looked surprised that we didn't have more (Judy had the full Scotch in her backpack). Even then we had less than the 2 litres allowed.

We intended to stay in Marmaris overnight and catch buses to Dalyan but Rags had done his sums and worked out that if we bargained hard enough we might get a taxi straight there. Taxi fares to various places were listed but on asking Judy was quoted a lower price. On principle Rags said that was too high, and after insisting the negotiating was done in Turkish lira and not euros, came to a reluctant agreement for the 80km trip.

The driver drove very cautiously for the first 40 or so kilometres, speeding up as it got darker. By the time we got to Dalyan we had negotiated dark, narrow roads with unlit tractors, cyclists and pedestrians, passed through small villages with no sign of a large town. Just before we voiced our concerns we came into a well lit town with lines of shops and cafes - we had arrived. A few wrong turns, a search along an unlit lane, a phonecall to our hosts as to where the key was, and we were 'home'.

Our new home was a modern, 3 storey duplex with all mod cons and well set out for both holiday or permanent living. Our Home Exchange hosts, Joanne & Tom arrived soon after we got inside and they told us about the house and the area, making us feel truly welcome. They had even brought us some fruit, bread, milk and cheese, plus a bottle of wine so that we wouldn't have to go out to find food for dinner. We'll have something to live up to when we reciprocate the exchange in a few year's time.

Tuesday 19th October 2010

Dalyan gets its name from the Dalyan River which flows through the town. Its mainstay used to be fishing but it is fast becoming more of a tourist town. On the other side of the river from the town there are two rows of tombs carved into the walls of the cliffs. These tombs look like elaborate buildings and were built in the 4th century BC, for citizens of the ancient town of Caunos,the ruins of which are on the other side of the hill.

Caretta caretta, the loggerhead turtle breeds on the beach where the river enters the ocean. This has now been made into a sanctuary to protect them. We caught one of the local boats which take you on a 40 minute trip along the river, through the reeds to the beach itself. On the way we had second thoughts as the rain poured down and the sky was lit up by lightening. However, when we it was like the calm after the storm! There are change rooms and a small cafe set up by the beach with lines of umbrellas and mats stretching for about 200 metres. These don't enroach on the turtle breeding grounds, but as today was rainy no tourists were availing themselves of them. we met a couple on the boats and while the 'boys' had coffee and solved the problems of the world the girls, Judy and Rita, went for paddle.

It was dry when we returned to the town and on the way back to the house we stopped at a small bakery to pick up some pastries, one filled with spicy potato, the other cheese. These plus sharing one filled with apple certainly sated our hunger. We'll need lots of exercise whilst here if we aren't to put on a lot of weight!

Later we wandered down a few of the streets looking at likely eating places for the future and just generally window shopping. At a supermarket we purchased a few things for breakfast and for the evening meal. We noticed that alcoholic spirits are much dearer here than in Greece, Rags certainly won't be enjoying as much rake (similar to ouzo) as he was. Probably just as well!

Now that we have all the conveniences of home we can also cook a few more meals, it becoming a little tedious looking for a cafe each evening to eat in. Nice to just cook what you want and be able to put your feet up.

Wednesday 20th October 2010

A wet day greeted us but we weren't too perturbed as we had some washing to do and Judy has uni assignments to mark. Great to have a washing machine again, this the first since we left home. We'll be able to leave here with our bags full of clean clothes, rather than the 'cleanish' ones that have been washed in sinks or showers. This is a little luxury Rags has missed.

Just before lunch the rain eased and we went into town by a different route to get to know where we are in relation to the sights. We remembered to take our bags of rubbish with us to drop into one of the bins set up about the town. They don't have a house to house system here, which makes sense as many houses are vacant for a lot of the time.
We found another couple of supermarkets better priced and with a better range than where we have shopped before. There were a few pide cafes along this part of the road and we shared a lunch of mushroom pide, a dish of meatballs with vegies plus salad washed down with either Turkish tea or coffee. Very tasty and filling.

A short walk and the rain started again, so back to the house. Later in the afternoon it cleared so we went for another walk alongside the river towards the lake, stopping well before it when the track stopped at a pomegranate orchard. A couple of young guys were sitting on a jetty there eating pomegranates and they came across to give us some. Tasty, but you wouldn't want too much.

Thursday 21st October 2010

Today, after a slow start, we were rowed across the river by a local lady and then followed a road for several kilometres to the 9th century BC Kaunos, passing by the tombs carved into the sides of the mountain. We visited these ruins in 2002 but now they have been fenced off, some restoration has taken place, and of course they now charge an entry fee. Even so, it was interesting to revisit as we had forgotten much of it, only really remembering the theatre where Judy had done her "Friends, Romans,countrymen" bit. The ruins were more extensive than we remembered, we now walking nearer the river and seeing more ruins. In its heyday it was an important Carian city and port but their prosperity was threatened by the silting of the harbour. The silt from the Dalyan river has now pushed the city 5kms from the ocean.

By the time we walked back to where the rowboats pick you up we had probably walked the best part of 10kms and as it was after 1.30pm we both had a good appetite. We had a couple of recommendations for cafes but on unsuccessfully searching for the Atay cafe found one that looked ok. The Eylul cafe served us a great lunch of stuffed capsicum, an eggplant dish plus a paprika dish. Efi beer goes well with this! Later, we found that this was also one of the preferred cafes of our home owner and one we would happily go back to.

Friday 22nd

October 2010

Our trip for the day was the weekly market at Ortaca, a town about 12kms away from Dalyan. We caught a dolmus (a small bus) in the town square and showed we were newbies by paying as we got on. The dolmus stops for anybody who waves it down, provided there is space and stops where you ask to along the set route. as you exit, you pay for the length of the trip.

Ortaca is a large town, the service town for all the smaller around it. As we entered we saw the light industrial areas on the outskirts before being dropped at the bus station in the centre of town. Just 1-200m from here hundreds of stalls were set up, selling all types of clothing in one area, kitchen utensils in another, and fruit and veges in yet another area. The fruit and veges displayed were of good quality and much cheaper than the outlets in Dalyan. As we are only staying for about another week we couldn't but too much but it was very tempting.

The clothing did tempt us a bit even though we have to watch our baggage weight when we leave. Rags ended up with a pair of jeans and polo shirts, Judy with jeans, tracksuit pants and several tops. We may have to dump some of our old gear or be very heavily dressed when we get on the plane in Singapore!

Lunch consisted of pancakes with a stuffing of spinach and cheese, Gosleme, washed down with Ayran, a thin yoghurt drink. Healthy and surprisingly tasty. Rags has been taking note of different vegetarian dishes he could possibly serve if Ed & Cathy, the couple we met in Russia, ever came to see us. (would probably have to swap the Ayran with vodka if Rags & Ed were to have their way)

The town from where we were looked much like any other town we have seen so we found the bus station and caught a bus about to leave. Being such experienced travelers of dolmus' we held back payment until we reached Dalyan! Here, Rags bought a pastry from a small bakery on the main roundabout as he was still hungry and picked up his new favourite, Efes Dark, for the evening drink.

Saturday 23rd October 2010

This morning the local roosters beat the wailing from the mosque at 6am in waking us up. The volume of the prayers need to be heard to believe. Rags did like the way they added to the atmosphere at Kaunos on Thursday, when you could hear the sound from two distant mosques on opposite sides of the ruins.

As the markets were in Dalyan today we did go again, even though they are not as extensive as those at Ortaca. We went specifically to buy some fruit but did succumb with Judy buying a bracelet and Rags another 'T' shirt. We may have to buy a scale to ensure our luggage is balanced out and not overweight!

Lunch was at the same place we had it the other day, another pide, and a liver and vegetable dish, being shared. These, together with the complimentary salad and bread made for a delicious and filling meal.

We had a quiet afternoon with Judy doing some more marking, as tomorrow we have booked a full day trip, the 12 Island Cruise - looking forward to that. Rags spent some time researching what we will do for the remainder of the trip, making a booking for a 2 night stay at Pamukkale, a town visited too briefly in 2002.

Sunday 24th October 2010

At just after 9.30am we were picked up, a little later than arranged, and taken by car to Gocek, a coastal town about 35kms out of Dalyan. Gocek has several marinas and is now considered a "high' end yacht spot. This was proven correct by the number of large private ships and yachts we saw during our time there. We were there to enjoy the 12 Island Tour, advertised in many of the tourist shops in Dalyan.

We were not disappointed, being taken to island after island there. Our first stop, perhaps the most beautiful, where we were offered overpriced panacakes from another moored boat. Few swam here but when we stopped for lunch in a quiet haven that would have been ideal for snorkelling even Rags and judy dived in to enjoy the very cool, fresh water! Lunch was a yummy bbq lunch of chicken and pasta.

The boat we were on was a large 2 deck boat with lots of varnished timber, all beautifully presented. The skipper/owner of the craft plus his wife, a deckhand and another lady, ensured we had all we needed and provided food and drinks as required. There was a tour guide there for a large bus group and he gave a good run-down of where we were in perfect English. We later found out that although he was Turkish, he was brought up in Liverpool, England. Even so, he could also give his talk in German. The tour lasted from 10am until 5pm, included lunch and transfers to and from Dalyan and cost only the equivalent of A$20 each from the local agent, Ertac Tours. We both considered this was one of the best bargains we have had so far.

On returning to the house we found that the Internet still wasn't working so contacted our host. Tom came around soon after, couldn't help straight away but said he would look into it tomorrow. We had showers and decided to go out for dinner, choosing the Cagri cafe, in the middle of the town square because it had many tables already filled. We had a disappointing meal there, the lamb casserole for instance, only had about 5 tiny pieces of meat in it. What made the meal enjoyable was the Irish couple we sat next to, they keeping a good conversation going for the whole meal. It did get cool however sitting outside, so we left and made our way back to the house for a warm beverage whilst we either marked assignments or typed up this blog.

Monday 25th October 2010

Today was a quiet day, both of us not feeling like doing much at all. Instead we waited around for Tom to come around & fix the net but this didn't happen. We wandered into town, had lunch again at the same place we normally have it, then after shopping for some groceries 'veged' out for the afternoon.

Going into town after 4pm we saw Tom & Joanne on their scooter and they told us they were on their way to the Post Office to pay for the Net and that it would be up in 15 mins. We invited them for a meal in town on Wednesday night and then went off to check out a couple of places.

On our way back, Judy peeled off to go straight to the house, whilst Rags had some fun negotiating with 4 places for a hire car later in the week. The price is going down, the class of car going up! He'll make a final decision tomorrow (or Wednesday!).

The Internet was working when he got back, Judy into mail with her students. Rags therefore has no choice but to designate himself cook for the night. Tortilla for dinner as he had the ingredients ready! Our 5pm drink was ok too, Judy with the usual scotch & coke, Rags discovering Efes beer - Pilsener, Dark or Extra. Dark very tasty, Extra at 7.5%!d(MISSING)eadly!

Tuesday 26th October 2010

Fethiye, a town about 50kms away was where we were headed today, both to see the big market they have there on Tuesdays as well as seeing the town. It took about an hour on the dolmus to get there, we having to vote whether to leave at 4pm or 5pm. There was some disagreement but as there were two buses today it was decided for one to leave at 4 the other 5pm. Suited us, we thought 5 hours there would be enough.

The markets there were big, probably no bigger than Ortaca where we went before, but set out in long lines, making it seem larger. We walked through a long line of vegetable & fruit sellers, sampling a couple of figs on the way, and at the end of the line we had a pomegranate juice. This was tastier than expected although still quite tart. Its meant to be an aphrodisiac but Rags has his doubts.

On to the rest of the markets, only to look mind you, and in no time Judy had bought another pair of sandals as well as making Rags try on some shorts, with him walking away with 2 pairs! With an attitude of not to buy anything else, we continued through the masses of stalls, Rags buying a set of scales so that we may check our weights and that our bags are balanced. Some of the airlines won't allow you to have uneven weights even if the total is under the limits - a bit pedantic but we've experienced it in several countries now.

One thing we noticed as we walked around was the number of British people here. In fact, we saw few Turkish people. The stall owners obviously cater for the British, with many of their prices quoted in Pounds Sterling. This annoys us, we insisting that they quote their price in the local currency, otherwise we aren't interested. We understand where they are coming from, they know what side their bread is buttered. We saw few people from Britain when we were here in 2002, German tourists being the norm. The British 'all inclusive' tours have become popular and many English are now living here as it's cheaper than the UK and from what we have seen, prices have soared here at least. Be interesting to see what its like when we get away from the coast later.

After the markets we walked along the harbour, this stretching for some way in front of the town. All along here were lines of gulets, the beautiful wooden yachts the Turks make, converted for tourist day-trippers and for longer trips. Very few of them showed any sign of life, the tourist season finished for most, this being the last week for many of the others. Just the number of them made the mind boggle at how many people must be here during the peak of the season. We both agreed we wouldn't like to be here at that time, it being busy enough as it was.

On returning to Dalyan at 5pm Rags completed his negotiations for a vehicle for the last 10 days in Turkey, we ending up with a 2010 Fiat Doblo. This is a medium to small car, diesel powered, and quite roomy. We pick it up on Thursday and will have it until we fly out on Sunday 10 days later. We brought a sat-nav with us, Rags downloading a map of Turkey on it. Should make navigating a little easier for all.

Thursday 28th October 2010

A wet, miserable morning with the rain constant and quite heavy. At 10.30 we received a call asking whether or not we were picking up the car. Told them to wait until rain stopped. Can understand their keenness, they want to ensure their car goes out.

Just before lunch we became the proud 'owners' of a 2010 Fiat Doblo. Rags picked it up from the hire company and drove the 500m to the house very carefully on the right hand side of the road. After lunch the sun came out and we were off!
Firstly, we had to go to the garage for fuel as the tank was empty. 170TL (over A$120) to fill the tank!

We drove to Iztuzu Beach, which is the other end of Turtle Beach where we went the first day by boat. Horrible brown sand and a not very inviting beach. There were very few people about, even so, one couple were lying on the sand taking in the first bit of sun for the day. So different to home.

Driving back was a little more relaxed, Rags pretty-well used to driving on the 'other' side of the road. Glad we upgraded to this car, it is very comfortable and being bigger than the Hyundai Getz we could have had, gives more storage for our stuff.

Our hosts, Tom & Joanne, joined us for dinner, we taking them to the HadiGari cafe, which served up a large selection of Turkish food. We shared serves of rice, beef, pickled fish, black-eyed beans, spinach, tomato, etc, never thinking we'd demolish it all, but we did! Very tasty food indeed.
On our way back to the house we stopped by a wedding celebration where all the women were inside dancing, a few younger men joining them, the rest of the men outside. No alcohol is drunk at these functions as they are Muslim. Tom told us that this was only one of the functions held for a wedding, an earlier one for men only, where the alcohol flows very freely.

Back at the house we had tea & the final (for Dalyan) Dark Efes, and talked about the planned yoga centre Tom & Joanne were in the process of building. This would have rooms for guests, a pool, yoga area, as well as massage areas where they could ply their skills, all set in a large orchard. We wish them well in their endeavour, who knows, we may return to be customers.

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Photos

Our house!
Thanks Tom and Joanne!

Thunderstorms on the way but the rained stopped at the beach.
Judy after her paddle!

Iztuzu or Turtle Beach
Dalyan achieved international fame in 1986 when developers wanted to build a luxury hotel on the nearby Ä°ztuzu Beach, a breeding ground for the endangered loggerhead sea turtle. The development was stopped and the beach is now a protected area but not protected from almost 900 of these beach lounges and umbrellas.

Amphitheatre at Kaunos, near Dalyan
This amphitheatre is quite well preserved and that is Judy standing there - not that you can tell as she didn't wear one of her bright tops today!

Kaunos
Chairs just waiting to be sat in! Can you imagine who might once have sat here?

Boat to "the other side"
3.5 lire to the other side and back with an old lady rowing the boat.

On the way to Kaunos
Pomegranites are a big thing in this area and we passed this group pulping and removing the seeds.

Shoes at the market
Judy was strong until Fethiye and then another pair of shoes was added to our luggage!

Dalyan Street
With the mosque in the background - where all the noise comes form!

Boats at Dalyan
It's incredible how many there are - one can only wonder at how busy it is in 'high' season

Markets at Ortaca
Wow, look at the size of those cabbages - the soil is very rich here!

Comments

[Thelma]

Turkey
The house looks like it would be a very comfortable home for 2 weeks ! And the car looks great !! Pity you can't bring it home with you !! Hope you enjoy your travels in it. Turkey looks a very interesting place, I think your views of it are great. I'd like to get among those Markets !!! What beautiful big cabbages !! Take care, lots of love.