Lycian Way - starving!


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Middle East » Turkey » Mediterranean » Kas
April 27th 2013
Published: May 5th 2013
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Day 3 - Bezirgan - Saribelen - Gokceoren



Today we decided to get up early and then take a break during afternoon when its really hot. Still we got up around 6:00 and left around 7:00. After a short downhill walk we reached Bezirgan We were hoping to get some breakfast here but the town looked closed. We did not really want to get off the trail, so did not really go into the village. We though we will have food at the next village Serebalen which was about 7km away. Little did we know that its 7km of up and down and up again. After Bezirgan, the there is a steep climb for about 20min, and then it took us to a nice wide slightly uphill road. I thought this is good, we are finally getting a break from the narrow overgrown trail. We were happily walking on this wide road when a man in the car came and told us that this is not Lycian Way, its somewhere down. We could see the signs, and we could not see any trail elsewhere. So we were confused, but he was quite insistent. He drove down and them stopped at the place where the trail branches off the big road. It seemed impossible to go down that way, the whole hillside was overgrown with bushes. But he was right, the trail did branch out and became a goat trail leading us down the hill. This was definitely the most overgrown part of trail, it was also full of trash from the highway, not pleasant at all. I was glad to finally get down safe.

The trail then again disappeared into a field. We were hungry and tired and it was getting hotter by the minute. After spending lot of time going back and forth in the field, we finally set off one way and magically hit the trail. If anything last 2 days of trail had shown, it was that the trail is always going up and down the hills. So up another hill we went and reached couple of houses. This was Serebelen. We really needed food now. We saw a house and asked them for trail directions, and place to eat food. They told us town was somewhere below and trail is somewhere up. There was no energy or desire to go down for food just to climb up. Also we were not sure if anything will be open in the town. So after lot of deliberation, we decided to ask the lady in house if she had food. The language was big barrier here as I could not even explain to her that we just want some bread, its called akmeck in Turkish, no similarity. She first said no, but I did not want to go, we really needed food. So finally she took me to her kitchen and said take whatever you want 😊. She had a huge pile of dried huge paratha type things, she picked a couple threw some water on it. Then she cut up a bunch of tomato, cucumber, cheese, I guess typical Turkish meal. Then she also made eggs for us. The food was like heaven! So we ate our full, and thanked her and paid her 20TL..

Happy and rested we started on our trail again. Immediately we met a man on bike who was again insistent that we are going wrong way, and the trail is actually down rather than up. Like last time this was also again intuition, the trail is suppose to go up as we are suppose to cross the next hill. But he was really insistent, he even offered to take Rahul on his bike and show the trail. So we agreed, of course he had no reason to misguide us. The trail was indeed down, but it went down a little just to go up again. So again, over the next hill, and out on the other side. Today we wanted to take a break in the afternoon when sun is really hot. Over the hill there were some nice grasslands. After lot of walking we came upon a nice shaded area with a well and a local couple tending to their sheep. The place also had a well. This was perfect place to take rest. Also at this point it felt that rest of the trail to Gockcheren is going to be mostly flat now. We pulled out the tarp and sat in the shade, filled water bottles from well and washed some clothes.

At around 4:00 we started walking again. The goal was to reach just outside Gokceoren We had an estimate that Kas will be 5km - 8km from there so we will be in Kas next
TurtleTurtleTurtle

No idea where they came from but there were turtles in middle of hills
afternoon. How wrong were we! The walk from here was indeed mostly flat going through fields. We also met 2 other girls who were doing the whole trail. We were walking through large fields with small ruined walls, it was great, good places to camp, but we wanted to reach Gokceoren so that we can have a good meal. Close to village we met an enthrapruner on bike. He insisted we came to his pension for breakfast. He wanted us to give him some time, so we randomly said 8:00am. We had to eat after all. My shoes were giving real problem now and feel really hurting. Just before the village we found another perfect campsite on a flat overlook. So we decided to set camp, not go in village and just eat left over bread and bars for dinner. My feet had couple of big blisters, I should have put moleskin on the pain points early. We were looking forward to a short day tomorrow and reach Kas.


Day 4 - Gokceoren - Cukurbag - Kas



We wanted to get up early, but again being tired could not. So we started quite late around 8:00, heading straight into the village. To our surprise the pension guy was waiting for us on the trail and he made sure we went to his place for breakfast. The breakfast was typical bread, tomato, cheese, cucumber. We paid him 20TL and asked for the distances to Kas. This is where realization dawn on about how wrong our estimates were. Kas was more than 20km away and I am sure we had hills to cross in between. The mood was really grim at this point, I did not want to do more uphills, but there was no option. Mercifully the first 8 km were simply on a wide road, slightly downhill. Then we met another sign and then started another grueling uphill walk. I could not believe that we had so much energy to walk up that whole hill. At top we met couple of women who were also going to Kas. They were quite surprised that we had no map, book or gadget to get us through the trail. But I thought we were doing quite well without any, we just met people who wanted to help. Thankfully the trail here was not hard, we just needed water. We
PhellosPhellosPhellos

The lost city on top of hill
saw more wells and taps to get water no the way. It seems some recent flood had passed through this area. The trail at places was washed up and taking us to a wide truck road. There were no signs here, just some stones to guide us. But we did ok finding our way.

The next village to look forward to was Phellos. We had no idea that its not a village, but a lost ruined city on top of a hill. So of course we went down and then up that hill. The views from top were really good. We had surprising views of snowcapped mountains on one side and sea on the other. At top of the lost city, we saw sign for Antiphellos, another 8km away. It was completely what the hell, what is Antiphellos and where is Kas. My feel were completely killing me and it was impossible to walk more today. On top we met a father and son who were looking for the lost city of Phellos. They were on the road, just there for a day hike. I really wished that they would give us ride to Kas. My wish did come true. We had a long downhill to go before hitting the road. We were walking slow, and with amazing coincidence the father and son pair did they day hike and reached the road exactly with us. We asked them if they were going to Kas, they said they were and offered to give ua a ride. They were God send! So finally the hike was over. We reached Kas and headed for the first hotel we could find.

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