Poor Medusa!


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Middle East » Turkey » Marmara » Istanbul
March 26th 2009
Published: July 31st 2009
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Medusa at the Basilica CisternMedusa at the Basilica CisternMedusa at the Basilica Cistern

Woe to me.....was I really that evil?
Shelly murmured "Poor Medusa" nearly all throughout the time we visited the Basilica Cistern. While I remember the underground palace's impressive water system from years ago, still in use today, I remember poor medusa most. So many legends surround the mystery of how and why Medusa came to be. I must have read too many , I couldn't decide which one to believe. On the other hand, Shelly is more convinced that Medusa begs our compassion. I am tempted to agree with her. So we murmured our way throughout the Basilica Cistern...........




But just who is Medusa? An image of this evil woman with venomous snakes on her head who could turn anyone who dared look at her into stone, readily comes to mind. Was she originally a Greek goddess punished by the more powerful goddess Athena with that dreadful serpent hair? Or was she in fact, or in myth, a Libyan goddess worshipped by Amazons as the Serpent Queen? Another myth goes that Medusa is a Gorgon goddess revered in olden times, way before patriarchal Greece came into being. Images of Medusa were even likened to the Goddess Cybele (a.k.a Artemis to the Greeks, Diana to
Inside the Underground PalaceInside the Underground PalaceInside the Underground Palace

The Basilica Cistern is sometimes called the Underground Palace. Remember this scene from the movie "From Russia With Love"?
the Romans) such that ceremonial masks of olden times bore her image to "protect women" and as an ancient symbol of feminine power and wisdom.




But the most compelling story is that of the Greek hero Perseus, claimed to have been sent by either Athena or another King , or perhaps both, to slay and behead Medusa. This ancient greek myth involves an almost magical tale of Perseus sent to slay the monster. In fact, this is the story most of us grew up with. A story about a very very good king who happens to be the father of Perseus, killed by his own brother so the brother could be King. Over time, Perseus' mom charmed another King who wanted to marry her. In order to "get rid" of Perseus, this last King sent Perseus on a quest ---- to kill the monster Medusa and bring back her head filled with venomous snakes. Along the way, Perseus met Hermes who gave him winged-sandals so he can speed-chase or speed-flee from Medusa as the case may be. He also met Athena who warned him not to look directly at Medusa lest he turns into stone, and
Farewell, Istanbul..........Farewell, Istanbul..........Farewell, Istanbul..........

Istanblue, Istanbul. Found this store near the Basilica Cistern. Just around the corner.
to use her shield and sword. As retold, Perseus killed Medusa using Athena's shield (where he looked to find a reflection of Medusa) and sword to behead her. Nice story. Good over evil. Hero versus Monster.




Not too fast. There is this other story about Medusa as a rape victim. Yes, a rape victim. Raped not just by anyone, but by the Greek God Poseidon. (So it must be true that she was once a lovely maiden! Either that, or Poseidon had poor taste on women) And so, from lovely maiden, she was cursed by Athena and transformed into this ugly creature with snakes growing out of her head. Oh my.......I tell you, this story goes from scary to sad to comical.




But whatever tale or myth you fancy, make sure that when you visit, go to the leftmost part of the cistern to pay your respects to Medusa. This is a most strange tourist attraction. In the movie "From Russia With Love", James Bond rowed his way through the cistern. Such is not necessary. One simply pays a minimal fee, go down the stairs , and stroll through the cistern which
Farewell, DoggieFarewell, DoggieFarewell, Doggie

Too many stray dogs in Istanbul.....or all over Turkey for that matter. Oh, and there were stray cats too. Not that we mind.....they are just as friendly as the locals!
is like a forest of marble pillars. You won't miss the cistern. It is right within the Sultanahmet Square, right across the Haghia Sophia. And if you strolled all the way to the leftmost part of the cistern, neither would you miss Medusa. There are 2 heads of Medusa in this underground palace. One is completely upside down. The other head statue lies on its side. No one knows why they are arranged as such. Oh.....too much Medusa mysteries here.




Allow me to share this with all of you................




From The Muse as Medusa
by May Sarton


I saw you once, Medusa; we were alone.
I looked you straight in the cold eye, cold.
I was not punished, was not turned to stone -
How to believe the legends I am told?...



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Why Lie On Your Side, Poor Medusa?Why Lie On Your Side, Poor Medusa?
Why Lie On Your Side, Poor Medusa?

You'd find 2 head statues of Medusa inside the Cistern. No one knows why they are upside down or tilted to the side. Oh... too many Medusa mysteries!
Entrance to the Basilica CisternEntrance to the Basilica Cistern
Entrance to the Basilica Cistern

You won\'t miss it. The cistern is right within the Sultanahment Square, right across the Hagia Sophia. Entrance only 10 Turkish Lira.
Sinister Cistern, At First GlanceSinister Cistern, At First Glance
Sinister Cistern, At First Glance

There was something eerie about it.......


13th September 2009

Great article, Miriam.
Hey there. Loved this article and you personal inflections on your experience. Some quite comical! Actually, your story reminds me of the Harry Hamlin movie in which he played Perseus.....very handsome back then. Thanks for sharing your experience. Jeff
13th November 2009

Medusa
What a wonderful trip you must have enjoyed!Medusa I feel is telling all not to allow one's experiences to turn them to stone.Very much the same as Lot.Don't spend too much time on regret,or past conflicts,move away from the emotions that have arisen from the experience,least yea be turned to stone?The snakes may represent,fear,guilt,and anger,resulting in venom which may destroy.Only can be looked at through a reflection may also be a anology to do just that,reflect and move on. Enjoyed your article,and your compassion.Thanks,Anne.
13th February 2010

According to some historians, Emperor Justinianus ordered to "drown" Medusa, thus burying such pagan goddess underwater. All for the sake of Christianity. There are also some artifacts like a pagan temple's bronze door and two marble relief symbolizing Poseidon placed in Hagia Sofia. It's a common fact for dominant cultures trying to erase the beliefs before them.

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