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Published: July 28th 2015
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sideways Medusa
Basilica Cistern I had visited the big three of Istanbul: the Blue Mosque, the Aya Sofia, and Topkapi Palace, experiences and pictures that I am still processing. But today was to be a day of smaller, quieter experiences.
I walk past the Basilica Cistern everyday on my way to the tram. This morning there was hardly any line, so I decided to visit. The Basilica Cistern does not accept the Istanbul Museum Pass, nor does it take credit cards. The entrance fee is TYL 20, and if there are big cruise ships in town the lines can get very long.
I was rather let down. I’m not sure what, exactly, I was expecting, but the Basilica Cistern is basically just an underground storage tank. Yes, to my eyes it is a marvel of engineering, and yes, the Medusa heads at the base of two of the many columns are classically beautiful and mysterious. But other than that, and some big fat fish, there ain’t much there.
The Quincentennial Museum of Turkish Jews was a whole different story. The museum offers a fascinating look at the history and lifestyle of Turkish Jews. There is a long and rich
Medusa head 2
Nobody is quite sure why this head was placed upside down. history of Jews being welcomed into Turkey that goes back at least 500 years. Sultan Beyazit Han offered refuge to the Jewish people forced out of Spain in 1492. Turkey also offered refuge and safety to European Jews during the Second World War. There is a copy of the letter Alfred Einstein wrote in 1933 to Kemel Ataturk, founder of the Turkish Republic, with the names of 40 prominent German Jewish scholars and scientists who promised to work for free for one year in any capacity if they were allowed into Turkey. Happily, Ataturk accepted the offer.
The museum is almost impossible to find unless you are really determined. It is in an inactive synagogue at the end of an alley with only a small sign that says “museum.” The guard will take a picture of your identification – your passport will do just fine – then you pay an admission fee of TYL 10, go through a metal detector, and you’re free to wander.
And then there is the Ottoman Bank Museum. Sounds dull, but this place probably gave me a better idea of development of Turkey than anyplace else. The tour starts with the
display of the original royal charter given by Queen Victoria of England in 1856, including the royal seal. Now that’s pretty cool, as is going into the bank vaults and seeing the original hand-written ledger books, but the best part are the files on the people.
The Ottoman Bank kept files on everyone connected with the bank, and those files included all sorts of information. Every employee, had a full length picture taken, as well as information about their age, marital status, ethnicity and religion. The pictures of these people let you see how fashions in clothes and photography changed over the years.
There is a very nice rooftop café here as well. It’s on the ground floor which sounds like it doesn’t make any sense, but trust me. I had a simit (sort of like a bagel with sesame seeds) and an iced latte. There is a wonderful view of the Old City from here, with one of the best views of the Mosque of Suleyman the Magnificent that you can get.
At the end of my day of small adventures I came across the Ottoman Janissary Band giving a free concert in
Percemli Sokuk
At the end of this alley is the museum. Sultanahmet. This was the perfect little cherry to top off my day, though I must confess that, to my ear, a little Ottoman military music goes a long way.
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Jilllian Sawers
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Will visit the Bank next time I'm in Karakoy
Hey Karen, was nice to meet you in that colourful cafe with my brother and family the other night. They have gone and escaped the heat which seems to have increased dramatically today! Hope you enjoy the rest of your trip.