Mountains and Forts

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Hajar Mountains, Forts and tombs

Drove up out of Muscat into the foothills of the Hajar Mountains. Beautiful rocks everywhere, so many colours. Does look a bit like driving through a colourful quarry, big heaps (hills) of crumbly rocks. On the way to our hotel in Bahla we stopped in the old town of Nizwa. Old refers to the very heart, the rest is undergoing significant renovation with big highway expansions and a new university amongst other things. The fort was initially built in the 9^th century and renovated I the 17^th by and Imam best known for removing the Portuguese for Oman, it was a centre of learning, culture and Islam for a long time. The main part of the fort is the massive, squat round tower. Whole place is well restored with lots of small rooms with low windows, rugs and cushions, reminded me of Fort Jesus in Mombasa. I like this style or room, although these days I would much rather sit in an armchair than on floor cushions. Nearby Bhala fort is also an impressive site, both have good views form the roof over the date plantations and many abandoned adobe buildings.

We drove part way up Jebel Shams mountain to the village of Misfah. Lovely little village that sits half way up the mountain and tumbles down into a valley filled with date palms and other trees and crops. It’s mostly uninhabited now with most of the villagers living on the other side of the valley in new homes. The cobbled streets, terraced gardens and derelict mud brick buildings create a lovely atmosphere in the evening light. The falajwater system is impressive and extensive. The falaj which are water channels from springs to cultivated land are present in many villages and can be impressively long and complex systems feeding a whole village’s set of terraced gardens.



One of the most surprisingly impressive places I this are were the Al Ayn tombs. These date from around 2000 BC and are dome shaped (beehive tombs), placed along a ridge in the reddish stone that is all around. The setting was stunning, tombs I the foreground with the big mountains behind.

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Photos

Misfah village
Viewed from the new village on the other side of the vallye