Sabra & Shatila

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I head out to Sabra and Shatila in the pouring rain this morning. I figured I need to see the conditions they live in if I'm going to claim to "support the cause", especially since it's so close.

I took an excruciaingly slow bus out to the general area named "Shatila" where I assumed the camp would be located. The lady at the tourist information center had given me a cold "I don't know where that is" when I asked about how to get there... I think people are trying to forget about its existence. A guy in the vicinity offered me a ride to the cemetery but strongly cautioned me against going "in there" as (he said) I might not come back out, and they "have knives and guns" and might take my passport and/or money. At one point I almost faltered in my resolve, but I couldn't turn back having come so close. So I pulled out my *keffieh* (the black/white checkered thing that Arafat wore.. I picked mine up in Diyarbakir, as the Kurds there wear something very similar), took a deep breath and plunged in.

Unfortunately the first person I met was a teenager who persistently asked me for 1000SL (less than $1, but as you all know, it's the principle), which was a bad start... After him, however, I didn't see anything to justify what I had heard about the place... I made a point of smiling and saying hello to everyone I met (to build up good will), but I don't think I'd have a hard time even if I hadn't. The place was quite a shock after flashy downtown Beirut: it was a true ghetto, with narrow streets with broken paving, half-finished houses crowded together, and the small stores which are inevitably found in such places... A large-ish street passing through the slum area has the usual "bazaar-ish" collection of shopping stalls that I had gotten used to seeing in Syria... I guess this is where the poor people shop in Beirut.

A group of young people were amused at seeing me, and called one of their friends who brought out his 2 1/2 year old so I could see him smoke! And he did. It was quite disturbing. They were also going to show me him mock-humping one of the guys there but I think the kid got scared of me so I was spared. But apparently I was in the wrong place, and this ghetto wasn't *the* ghetto... a mistake I made over and over until a young guy who spoke a bit of english pointed out the side of the street where the refugee "camp" officially started. Camp is a bit of a misnomer since the people have been living there for decades, and have built multi-storied apartments which line the crooked streets where wooden planks form makeshift bridges over the deep puddles of rainwater and the electric wires hang overhead in a confused jumble. Apparently the Lebanese government has more important things to tend to, like the Disney-esque downtown area where the bourgeoisie dine and smoke nargilehs surrounded by riches.

The kid, Mohammad, showed me around the area, complaining that people from all countries have come to see the situation, except I'm the first person from Turkey who has cared to visit. He showed me the mosque where on a wall are written the names of 500 slain during "the war", and within are their mass graves. The main street (outside the camp) had pictures of Hezbollah martyrs hanging from the lampposts. Palestinian flags and graffiti were also rampant within the camp. I saw one kid with a tshirt featuring a picture of Arafat and I wished I had kept an eye out for that sort of thing. Mohammad showed me to a group of destroyed houses right at the border of the camp and said that the members of Amal in the neighboring street had fought with the Palestinians, using weapons supplied by Syria, and most of the camp was demolished during the fighting which also claimed two of his brothers. Apparently buildings in the camp had formerly been 3 stories high, but after the destruction they were rebuilt, this time with many more (up to 10) stories. He tried to explain some of the inter-party politics of Fatah, Amal, Hezbollah, Islamic Jihad and some other gropus that I had never heard of. All I really understood was that Amal and the Palestinians are now at peace, and a lot of his friends are from Amal.

He also said that most people in the camp have weapons, and he owns an AK-47 as well as an M16.. apparently he emptied 3 AK-47 magazines in the air when he got drunk on new years. I asked about RPGs and he said they'd get them if fighting began. There are 8 boys and 6 girls (one of which I saw, and was cute) in his family. When parting he said if I'm ever again in the area I should stop by his parents' house and they would contact him and he would come from Beirut within an hour. All this for a stranger he met on the street...

The camp ends suddenly, melting seamlessly into the neighboring slums. A short ways away from the camp you are once again surrounded by the glitter and shine of Beirut which parties on as hard as ever, unaware of and not caring about the whereabouts of, much less the occupants of Sabra & Shatila.

Sorry for the lack of pictures. Even I didn't feel right pointing a camera at the people living in that squalor... It would be like pointing at a cripple.

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Comments

[anonymous]

its mothers day
hadi hadi demiyorsunki ben aslinda gitmedim, uyduruyorum yazdiklarimi ondan resim koyamadim nerden bilecegiz gittigini? bende istersen buna benzer bisey yazarim - broken glass

[anonymous]

Lebanon For Lebanese
I don't mean to sound mean or anything but I have to say something very important. The people who live in Sabra and Chatila are Palestinians. They were the main cause of the civilian war in Lebanon and because of them the Lebanese people suffered. Now, the media has turned everything around in light of the Muslims and made the Lebanese Christians seem as if we were the bad guys. Take into consideration that Lebanon is an appressed country with a very corrupt government that is raping it alive for every last cent and will not stop until there is nothing left to take. So, next time if you ever think of visiting Lebanon, you should really try see two sides of the story and meet real proud Lebanese people(Christians) and I wonder what you'll think then. By the 30th of April 2005 Syrian troops are to withdraw out of Lebanon, but this does not mean much - all they are doing is going into Syria changing their army clthes and returning as civilians. In a country of a population of 3.5 million what is not included is the 650 000 Palestinians, 2 million civilian Syrians that take much of the work away from the average class Lebanese due to their very cheap labour and not to mention the 1.5 million Lebanese that have left Lebanon since the end of the civil war. People do not talk of the physical war anymore, they take of the financial war. So, in conclusion what I think the only solution to the crisis in Lebanon is if all the non Lebanese civilians leave, if the borders are secured and if a new constitution were to be writen up with free and democratic elections. To disarm terrorist organisations within Lebanon such as Hezbollah and Amal. And then finally for Lebanon and the Lebanese people try to cover the $42 billion dollar debt which the corruption of the current Lebanese government stole. God Bless Lebanon and his martyrs such as General Michael Aoun of the FPM for a free Lebanon touched by the hand of God! - Michael Farah

[anonymous]

Stupid Arab
Saying Lebanon For Lebanese is the same facsist mentality which drove Nazis to say Germany for the Germans. When are Arabs ever going to learn that nationalism only leads to their descrution - -

[Damn..]

Arabs never learn..
Arabs never learn.. I am a lebanese arab but don't like the arabs myself, I think they are the most hypocritical, lowlife, undeserved race on earth, they say one thing and do another. So I just say forget about Lebanon and the Lebanese, live your life outside Lebanon and do leave Lebanon for the arabs, yes I said arabs, because we have been so influenced by the dumb arab mentality that we have forgotten all of our former roots dating back to phoenicians till the beginning of the arab era. Live your life outside, in America, if not the UK, in Europe, just forget Lebanon.. Lebanon is for the arabs now, not for the Lebanese unfortunately

[Mar Girgis]

Wow, you're all astonishingly full of shit!
Wow, I'm amazed. The three posts prior to mine are outrageously ignorant and you should be ashamed. Mr. Farah, like most right-wing Lebanese, you sit there and exclusively blame the civil war on Palestinian refugees! Take off the blinders! Yes, there was a radicalized, militant Palestinian presence in Lebanon and this was not in Lebanon's interest, but who illegally invaded Lebanon with overwhelming and unnecessary force? Who bombed and murdered thousands of her civilians with total impunity and abandon? Who practices a policy of collective punishment? Palestinian refugees? No, the Israelis. And let’s not forget, the Syrians, the Iranians, and the Americans also had a hand in squeezing more blood out of Lebanon to suit their interests. All of these parties have blood on their hands and it is they who exploited Lebanon’s pre-existing internal tensions. You even say to bedreddin, the journal’s author to meet the “real proud Lebanese people(Christians)”. What? Are you suggesting that the only real and proud Lebanese are Christian? You’re ridiculous. It’s stooges like you that helped perpetuate the civil war; and your mentality belongs in the ruins of the past. But I agree with you, the militias should be disarmed and corruption should be reigned in, but don’t forget, while Aoun was sitting pretty keeping Baabda safe from the Israelis and then went on to fight his fellow Lebanese Muslims and Druze, it was Hezbollah that kicked Israel out of the South and organized schools and hospitals and a semblance of normalcy for people left with nothing after fifteen years of war. Or would you not consider them Lebanese because they’re not Christian? It’s sectarian tensions and hatred like yours that have put Lebanon in a weak and exploitable position. If that’s been the “hand of God” that you want touching us, I’ll pass. It’s more like molestation and I’ve had enough. Then there’s the next comment, by the coward who titles his post “Stupid Arab” but doesn’t even sign it with a pseudonym. He takes what Mr. Farah said and applies it to all Arabs, then he asks this brilliant rhetorical question: “When are Arabs ever going to learn that nationalism only leads to their descrution.” When are people who post comments on the Internet going to learn to think before they click SUBMIT? Wow, you’re deep, guy. It really makes you stop and think :-P On behalf of the Arab World, if I may, I say to this anonymous racist (actually I can’t tell if he looks down upon Arabs, or is a self-hating one himself), thank you for your wisdom! Of course, the Americans and Israelis don’t suffer from nationalism. No, not them. They’re so peace-loving and enlightened and tolerant and respectful of international law. They bomb our cities with white roses, respect us as equals, and always tell the truth. Nationalism is a human affliction that we’re all to blame for, okay? There are plenty of current examples of American Nationalism spinning out of control: Guantanamo, Abu Ghraib, the lies about Saddam’s WMDs. So go point that accusation someplace else. And Israeli Nationalism? There isn’t enough space here to begin to tell you. Then there’s the last comment before mine, also not signed and titled: “Damn… Arabs never learn…”. I have to say, I admire Mr. Farah for at least having signed his own comment; but this one here truly IS a self-hating Arab. I pity you, brother. There is a sickness inside you and you must have to lie to yourself everyday. You say “they [the Arabs] say one thing and do another”. Really? I didn’t know Arabs had an exclusive mastery over hypocrisy. Of course, the Bush White House always means what it says; and its words match its actions. Then this retard goes on to say “Live your life outside, in America, if not the UK, in Europe, just forget Lebanon”. Are you issuing counterfeit visas now, friend? Yes, that’s it, forget your identity and lose yourself in name brands and a purely consumerist lifestyle. This guy is a Lebanese (or should I say Phoenician?) Uncle Tom. As if Lebanon has never produced beautiful things after the Arab conquest? Fairuz and Gibran would give you a crisp slap on each cheek, ya kalb! What the hell is wrong all of you? These three that posted before me all suffer from selective historical amnesia. They only see what they want. I pity you all. As for me, I’m just a smartass and have a poor work ethic, so I’m pissing around at work. Pity me as well. I’m going to the bar to drink to Lebanon, its beauty, its people, and you for reading this rant. Kisses!

[anonymous]

blah blah blah you "phoenicians" have nothing else to do than talk politics. People in lebanon will take you into their house and drive you around, they love the company of strangers, and love to show them how they live. They know that strangers will be thankful and will not judge their way of life. But beware they like you because you're a stranger. As soon as you become familiar to them, they may start loosing interest. Or on the countrary they may develop friendship.

[Mr: Chammas]

I agree 100% with Mar Girgis
Thank god there is someone who puts things in its place. Im sick and tired of reading that stupid Lebanon for the lebaneses (wich considers Christians as the only Lebanese) retoric. Im sick of historical partiality and myths. Im sick of sectarian thinking, of denial and blaming everything on everyone else. Im a lebanese decendent (a christian one MR.Michael Farah) and I feel a shame of people who think like that. Mar Girgis you response was exelent, well founded and consistent, congratulations brother. as for bedreddin journal: It is great and very interesting. It seems you are a very sensible and human person. Interested in people and not just in big and fansy bildings. The world needs more people like you.

[Elias Daher]

Mr Chammas is right
I agree with you. Lets put and end to this mandness. Lebanon is part of the arab world and we shouldent fight over that anymore. Also the Palestinias must be included in lebanese society, they are here, some of them have been living here since 1948, I think is time to include them in our society until the can go back home.

[Charbel]

LEBANON!
Lebanon is for and always will be for the Lebanese. It is the Christian capital of the middle east and anybody that says otherwise is a stupid mother fucker! I agree with you Mr. Farah for you speak the truth and as it is. All these Arabs are jealous of Lebanon, the country with no desert and camels and stupid 3rd world people that believe in violence as a solution to peace. Lebanon is God's land surrounded by the scum of the earth...ARABS!

[Sarah]

Pathetic
As France is for the French, Lebanon is for he Lebanese and always was that way. Before Palestinians arrived in the country or any other nation for that Lebanon has peace, so that definately says something. I respect the Lebanese and I know that everybody that posted on this site can learn a thing or two from the Lebanese both Christian and Muslim.

[Dean]

HAHAHA
Mohammed was illiterate yet it was said in the Koran that he read the Koran everyday and taught it to his people! WAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAH fucking bastard religion!

[Jason]

Pathetic excuse!
Israel the most advanced fighting force in the middle east was not kicked out of Southern Lebanon by Hezbollah. They withdrew there forces by themselves. All Hzbollah have are there stones and home made weapons while Israel has the lastest in technology. And if Hezbollah kicked Israel out of Lebanon the why don't they kick them out of the Shebaa farms that lie along the border on Southern Lebanon.

[Anto]

Lebanon IS for the Lebanese, for both Christian and muslim, Dean, your post was very low and ignorant.

[deleted_899]

Smoking Baby!!!
Love that bit about the 2 year-old smoking baby, did you you see what brand they were??? And please, start writing again man, everyone's waiting......

[jazzar]

they diserve
i am an a lebanese forces member and i made the massacre their.i was the leader of the troop i killed 10 childrens and a lot of armed adults because they killed my child in damour by cuting his hands i asked the israeli helps and they didnt refuse so the israeli was outside and we with amal and some of syria allies entered the camp and we left when we killed everybody and we are obliged to do it again we will do it because the palestinian maked the civil war starting from ain el remmaneh

[Mengdi Deng Sheng]

Love one another
I do not understand; what is the problem or the difference between christians and muslims, since you are all arab, palestinians and lebanese. We in China, consider all Hong Kong, Taiwan, Macao and Tibet as part of China we respect everyone religion - we do not say China is for Chinese - it will never happen - what we say is China is for everyone - I think you should learn from us. According to your population census, currently the majority is muslims and the rule of thumb the projected 10 - 20 - 30 - 40 - 50 years the christian population is going to shrink - if you are having a problem now what will happen in the future? Look at your neighbor Israel - they do not say Israel for Israelis - but they welcome russians, brazilians, argentinian, romanian, turkish, ethiopians - they are not saying that they are better than others. In my opinion live together love one another, you are a small country and not a strong country.

[Lebanese_arab]

LEBANON IS ARAB
i wanna comment on Jazzar and Michael Farrah...ya sharameet...you are traitors....all Lebanese Forces and Kataeb Party members are traitors...they are shitty people,you collaborated with Israel against not only the Palestinians but the Lebanese also.Also trust me if the Palestinians had weapons during the massacre of Sabra and Shateela,nobody will dare to enter the camp,because lets admit it,Palestinians in Lebanon wer superb fighters,they would have fucked Kataeb and Lebanese Forces (they would have the big SHARMOOT Elie Hubiqa)...any way Elie Hubiqa,Basheer Jmael are all in hell,they are rotting there,those wer the biggest traitors.FUCK THEM.Also lebanon is arab 100%,so you people what language are you speaking?you BASTARDS....Also Palestinians didnt start the civil war in Lebanon k...its you people who started it,ISRAEL promised the Christians in Lebanon a state and they told them Palestinians are evil,then the christians in lebanon believed that the a christian lebanese is the pure lebanese,by the way FUCKU,,the main reason for the civil war is ISRAEL,and israel should be destroyed becoz its not a country.Its called Palestine....iam lebanese from Saida and iam proud of this land,also i would happy if the Kataeb and lebanese forces to be FUCKED.Lebanese Forces and Kataeb are the biggest SHARAMEET.

[Lebanese]

Just wanted to highlight a point. If it wasnt for the Kateab and Lebanese Forces no Christians would have remained in lebanon. We as Christians owe it all to them and to their brave leaders for saving lebanon from its Arab neighbours. Long live the Lebanese Forces +/

[OB1]

some might argue that what Mr. Erdogan did in Davoos was a PR stunt to reinstate the Turkish power all through the arab staes... But I say he is a MAN and a well spoken one as well,arabs, petrol lords,Amr Moussa please try to learn...... Tashakurat

[Ali]

you got to be ashamed
First and for most i would like to commend the previous writers for their creativity in describing their points and making perfect sense. What took place in Sabra and shatila is a disgrace to lebanon as a whole nation especially the Kataab the cowards who have never shot a single bullet against Israel. First and for most, nothing the palestinians have done justifies what the kataab did. The PLO was a liberation organization. It had supporters who rallied behind them. They were corrupt in so many ways but the have never commited massacres or killed innocent people in such a barbaric way. The PLO's have done many mistakes but nothing compares to what the phalanges did. The palestinians were fighting for a good cause and were dispersed from their land by force unjustly. Lebanon being comprised of many religions and secular, some people rallied for the cause and others did not (Phalanges ... the puppets). Now if part of the country rallied for the palestinian cause they have every right to do so. Bashir the (pig alkhanzeer, just like Jaaja) was given a deal witht the Israeli's to be elected president and he did for few days. He got killed and got what he deserved. Now, for the phalanges in seeking revenge by slaughering helpless women and children and even the elderly tells us a lot about these cowards. It showed the idealistic believes of this militia, it is build in hatred, racism, and agony. It showed that they were not only rebeling for their coward bashir but also they have hatred against all muslims especially the palestinians. History showed their cowardness but you know what god is great and justice was served by the killing of Hbeiqua and Bashir's nephew and more to come. It should not stop until the house gets cleaned from their cowards who have no dignity. Sabra and shatila has showed the extent and how far hatred these cowards have for others. These cowards have more than they deserve as far as power and political roles are concerned. They can not be trusted nor they can be kept un monitered. They never learn their lesson even though their leaders died in humiliation and by the worst ways of death. These same cowards who claim possession of lebanon have done nothing good to lebanon and dragged the country down. I wonder how they rally behind this militia based on false grounds. I always wonder how ignorant their supporters are. In fact, i believe their followers deseve the same kind of punishment and that is death. Because if you look up to such leaders who are corrupt and deceptive, you are as guilty as them. I dispise these followers who were raised on hatred. The pahlanged owe lebanon an apology. As a matter of fact every other party or militia has contributed and fought against the enemy while these animals were hiding and wishing death on their so called lebanese citizens while their lebanese citizens were under brutal attack by the enemy who have been killing innocent people for years. Going back to the Issue of Lebanon. Yasser Arafat was receiving tons of money. Every Lebanese in the government was getting paid. You can name them. They turned against the PLO when they became helpless. I could understand some frustration from the PLO but at the same time you have to understand why they were created. I am first to admit being a palestinian that they were not angels.. the PLO's have made some mistakes. I know their were minor incidents where they acted bad. But they never commited massacres against anybody. They were their to protect and fight a good cause. The palestinians were kicked out of their lands unjustly. They did not want to be in Lebanon, Syria or Jordan. They did not want their homes and lands taken. The did not want to be slaughtered even before the existance of the zionist state of Israel. In addition, they did not want to be slaughtered by the phalanges in tal-Alzaatar... There were given land by the UN and lived in Refugee camps. The Lebanese government was getted paid for the land leased by the UN. The lebanese government was getting money from the PLO as well. This is so typical of Lebanon. Money Lebanese are your friends as long as they benefit from you. When you run out of money, they turn a blind eye. The economy was prosperous when the PLO's were there. The dollar to the lebanese Lira was 1 to 2. The palestinians contributed to the economy by spending money inside the country. The palestinians despite their miserable situation have become lawyers, engineers, doctors, poets, and scientists. Palestinians have the most PHD's compared to their population. Lebanon gave the palestinians a refuge but that was not by choice nor it was the palestinian choice to lose their lands. I saw a movie called waltz with bashir i urge everyone to see it to get a clearer picture about what took place. Last but not least, i solute and thank those who rallied behind the palestinians and sacrificed for lebanon and fought the enemy. For others, get a life, live your pitiful life filled with guilt, shame and hatred. One thing i know for sure is that god is just, he'll always be their to protect the helpless from the hands of those to try to drag the country to hell or try to side with the real enemy..... ISRAEL.. Long live Palestine..... Proud palestinian.......

[anonymous]

The only political thing I will say about this is that you cannot demand peace from people before offering them (or in this case, giving them back) decent standards of living. It's a very crucial foundation for peace. I am half Lebanese, 16 years old, and my dad was there during the civil war and sabra wah shatila massacre. He is a doctor and was a doctor back then working for the red cross, saving lives. Last week while visiting relatives he took me to see the camp so I "wouldn't forget that these people exist, and the massacre existed." I went, and it was horrible like you said. Just not conditions people should be living in. You can see it in their eyes: each generation thinks they will be the one to escape, but the fact is that they are born there, live and die there. All of them have for 61 years now. And it's sad. My sister was with me and did take photos, although I agree with you, it was kind of hard to do but we did it anyway because actually, you can find beauty anywhere. The children loved the fact we had a camera (and were delighted to hear us speaking arabic although we both look fairly american at first glance, we are bilingual). They were beautiful to picture and proved the fact that humanity remains under the ruins of politics. Always. No group of people, no matter what, is inherently evil. That's what we all need to remember. The children of all races or ethnic backgrounds help remind me of this...humanity is solid. Besides that, though, we all had a good time. Even in Sabra. May all people find peace, within themselves and on the outside too.

[AMIR MALIK]

I LOVE YOU SABRA
MY name is AMIR.I LOVE Sabra. Main Sabra se bohat zayada peyaar karta hon magar os ka brother jo hain na bohat bora hain.Sabra main tum se sare zinda ge peyaar karta rahon ga bus tum muje mil ja o 'I Miss You jan" main rain raat or deen to kat ja tain hain magar main re umar kese katain ge tum hare ben.main tum ko bohat chahta hon.I LOVE YOU.................................................JAN.