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Published: November 11th 2017
In the desert at Wadi Rum.
Incredible sand dunes and cliff faces dot the desert.We left Jerusalem very early on a Friday morning and headed north to the
Jordanian border, there to meet up with others for our coach tour to famed
Petra, now a
UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the
New Seven Wonders of the World. Before Petra, we would drive to the city of
Jerash, an important city of the
then Roman Empire, on to
Amman, the capital, then further south to spend our first night at a
Bedouin camp in the desert before proceeding to Petra the following morning. After the second night in the camp we would drive across the desert to Wadi Rum, the location for many movies including the recent “Martian”.
The forty percent of excavated Jerash was a sprawling city of Roman architecture, complete with hippodrome to seat twenty-five thousand, promenades and shops and a typical theatre, with perfect acoustics. Regrettably, this has not been named a UNESCO World Heritage site because many homes are built on ruins. In our opinion, it definitely deserves this recognition but removing homes to accomplish this is neither feasible nor economically viable for the Jordanian government. After a sumptuous lunch buffet we paid a visit to the citadel in
Roman ruins in Jerash, Jordan.
I am standing on the theater stage. Around the perimeter are the original names of the Romans who donated money for the building of this facility.in that era. Amman then we were off to the Desert Highway following some special desert delights.
By the time we got closer to the Bedouin camp, darkness had already began to envelop the desolate landscape and we started our descent into the valley below which would house us for the next two nights. Slowly entering the camp, the glow of soft lights on the hills above the tents greeted us. As we were escorted to our tents, we passed a crackling campfire, surrounded by comfortable cushioned seating. We would later enjoy mint tea and acquaint ourselves with new friends there.
The next morning, we took the short ride to the Petra Visitor Centre and I could feel the growing excitement among the group. Jeanette and I opted to take a horse ride to a point ahead and waited for the others before beginning our walk into the once lost city and capital of the
Nabatean Kingdom. Entering the narrow canyon called
Al Siq, towering red, pink, and white limestone cliffs surrounded us. We saw their water distribution system, including their ingenious filtration method and dams on either side. Just as it is today in the desert, water was a vital
commodity then.
Suddenly, turning a corner, we came upon what millions from around the world come to see – the magnificent
Treasury, carved out of the limestone cliff face from the top downwards in all its dramatic splendour. Elsewhere in the city, elaborate tombs were carved out of the rock face and the remains of later Roman occupation are also still there.
We chose to climb the rather taxing incline to see the
2,000-year-old monument called The Monastery and I was so proud of Jeanette for accompanying me. It was a stiff and steady climb on steps carved by the ancient Nabateans 2,000 years ago. On the way down to rejoin our group and moments after I expressed that sentiment to her, she slipped on the uneven steps and fell, fracturing both her ankle and her foot. Most fortunately it was neither her back nor skull. As she lay writhing in pain, word spread quickly while I contacted the tour company and eventually paramedics arrived, secured her on a mule and took her to a waiting "ambulance", then to Queen Rania Hospital twenty kilometers away in
Wadi Musa (this city gets its name from the Biblical account of Everyone loves shopping.
Roman stores greet shoppers outside the Hippodrome, Jerash. Moses striking a rock from which needed water sprung). My international telephone was most handy and I recommend that no one travel without ensuring that they can keep in contact with the outside world, wherever they may be.
Jeanette is an unbelievable trooper and despite intense pain and the discomfort of a heavy cast, completed the tour later to
Wadi Rum and its desert
cliffs and sand dunes (she had to remain in the jeep throughout) before the long ride to the border and our return to Jerusalem.
My pictures will convey some of what we saw but words will not be able to adequately express the kindness that we received from everyone along the way, starting with our
Jordanian tour guide Rania, the coach drivers, fellow tourists, employees of the hospital, the workers on both sides of the border and our kind intelligent and ever reliable driver,
Majed (anyone looking for a most reliable and personable driver in Jerusalem, please contact me).
When Majed tried to access the road to the convent through the
Lions Gate, we found it closed for road repairs. So, while Jeanette waited with the patient Majed, I hurried to secure the
Central plaza in the Roman city, now Jerash.
Modern homes on the hills are built on the rest of the ruins. wheel chair from the convent and return for her. I got to a point on the road that was impassable and without being asked and without a hint of hesitation, three workers lifted Jeanette and the wheel chair across the mangled pavement. I huffed and puffed as I pushed her up the steep hill to the convent and just at the moment I reached and wondered how I would get up the entrance steps, and as if on cue, a young man appeared, took control of the wheelchair and expertly maneuvered the steps to the convent lobby. Everywhere we went, the Lord had angels like him, in our path. Awesome!
Visiting Petra, driving across the very desert that
Moses guided the fleeing Israelites from Egypt, sleeping in a Bedouin tent were all absolutely wonderful and unforgettable experiences. However, nothing impresses us more than the character of the Palestinian people whom I have mostly found to be gentle, kind, hospitable and generous despite the trying conditions of their existence on both sides of the Jordan River. Nothing ever seems to be difficult for them. When we checked into the
Shaare Zedek Hospital, in west Jerusalem, reputed to be one of
Delights in Amman, Jordan
Jeanette said this was the best dessert she has had so far. the best in Israel, the treatment Jeanette received was outstanding and everyone was exceedingly kind to us, especially a lovely
Jewish lady and her daughter who shared their lunch with us, rather than allow us to find a restaurant and risk missing the nurse we were waiting for. I was most impressed with the doctors who attended to Jeanette.
When I contemplate the concern, and understanding expressed by the nuns and others at the convent over Jeanette’s accident, I realize how important they are to this community. When I look into the eyes of the convent's Arab employees and see the warmth and sincerity that they generate, one simply can't help loving them. This is an experience of a lifetime and an important eye opener for me. Note: We used Abraham Tours, Jerusalem for our Jordan tour and found them to provide most excellent value.
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Carlton
non-member comment
Jordan-Petra, and near Peril
Hi Roger/Jeanette Enjoying your great ‘reporting’ as usual. Sorry that Jeanette got hurt; we all know her to be tough, but be careful. Incidentally, from his reporting it appears that PABA is closing in on you with his tour party. Look behind you!? Cheers.