Israel: a taste of the biblical trail

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Israel: a taste of the biblical trail

This trip with Peregrine Tours gave us a taste of the important Christian biblical attributes, with a heap of enjoyment on the side.

Day 0.1 - 12 May - From Jordan

Our last ‘blog’ had us finishing the tour in Jordon on Day 6. The following day (today) Peregrine Tours transported us to Israel.



We had wanted to visit the Jordan River where Christ had been baptised. Despite much email ‘conversation’ before we left and a few requests along the way while in Jordan, this was not to be. We’d departed the Amman hotel early so as to get to the border in a reasonable time. We were advised the border is bedlam and every minute ‘counts’. Imagine our dismay as our bus passed the turnoff to the site, with a 2km entry road!



We arrived at the Jordanian exit checkpoint, and yes, it WAS bedlam. Fortunately, Peregrine had booked us onto a VIP delivery process. “NO PHOTOS, DEFINITELY NO PHOTOS” was loudly said, and repeated often. We needn’t be told - Israel HAS a reputation! The minibus delivered us to the Israeli border entry gate and once in the door, we could see a sea of humanity - all jostling and shoving to get half an inch closer and through the gate a micropoofteenth of a second quicker! Someone appeared out of nowhere and guided us through the Diplomat gate. The checks, scans and re-scans seemed endless. Eventually our group was ‘spat’ out a blacked out door. We’d been told ‘Henri’ would come and pick us up. After an hour and no Henri, one of our group rang Peregrine ‘emergency’ and within a few minutes Henri appeared. We learned that Israeli border had changed the rules and buses were kept in a holding area some 2km from the area and not allowed to enter till the checkpoint had been advised of our departure from the border building!!!



Once aboard the bus, we again got tantalised as the bus drove past the turnoff to the baptismal site with a 1km link! On arrival to the hotel, Bruce chatted to the bus driver and discovered that logistically we could visit the baptismal site on Thursday - IF, our guide would allow.



Once in the hotel and after a clean up, we wandered around the corner for a beer to relax. We had to be back at the hotel for a 6pm group meeting and afterwards a group meal. The meal was ‘interesting’! We’d been told it was pizza. A large thick flatbread was topped with piles of fried onion (Yum) and a bit of dry BBQ’d chicken (Mmmmm!). Judy ordered a red wine that tasted like paint stripper. Welcome to Israel!

Day 1 - Old Jerusalem

Our guide had instructed that today was to be a walking tour - and by the end of the day our feet told us it was so!



As we indicated in the Jordan tour (blog) we had viewed an ancient Hebrew mosaic map (at St George in Madaba). Today we learned the ‘old’ city of Jerusalam has changed little over time. Yes, a new city wall was added to enlarge the ‘protected’ area, and some streets have been moved within the wall from the time of Roman construction. But, by and large, the street layout remains as it was in Roman times. We have included a map from the Information office (above) and a photo of a plaster cast of the city as it would have been when Christ was Crucified. At the bottom left of the plaster cast, there are 3 blue pools. Referencing the pool with a substantial walls (inside the city wall) continue slightly left to a smallish building attached to a wall. This building was where Pontius Pilate decreed the fate of Christ. From that building, the path Christ would have taken the cross is immediately upwards past small buildings towards a mound area outside the wall (a straight line upwards).



After we entered Herod's Gate, we were taken to the Pool of Bethesda. Archeologist's say this is where the family of Mary (mother of Christ) lived. 2000 years ago the level would have been lower than it is today. The significance of the ‘Pool’ is that this is where Christ did his first miracle. We were told that a crippled man used to go to the pool every day from his cave in order to try and bathe. For decades, nobody would help him. As a young adult, Christ was visiting his parent's home (about 50m away) after being away for many years. He saw the cripple (and you know the rest). The site of Christ’s parents’ home is next to Santa Anna Church, a Byzantine structure with amazing acoustics. And, as we learned so often, and though some contest it, the site of Christ's parents home is now a beautiful garden!



This was the starting place for our walk to the Via Dolorosa. The ‘Pool’ is about 200m from the administration building used by the Romans. And, that building is where Pontius Pilate collected taxes and administered 'justice' each time he visited Jerusalem. The building is the actual start of the Via Dolorosa (and the 1st Station of the Cross). Back then, Via Dolorosa was a street going directly out the (original) wall. Then, it would have been a straight path (it no longer is) of about 800 metres (now about 1km). Our group continued to each of the various Stations of the Cross. At one (5th) is a stone embedded on a wall and is reputed to have been where Christ leaned his hand upon it and took a rest.





Archeologists have been able to identify that outside the (original city) wall was an area that had been used as a quarry. So, some 2000 years ago the hard material had been used and the remaining surface was merely soft limestone rock (with many caves). Then, the hill upon which Christ was crucified was but a small mound within the quarry. The caves were below the mound and where Christ was laid to rest after he was taken from the cross. This whole area is now covered with the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.



Our guide (an archeologist) told us that several branch churches of Christianity (Catholics, Coptics, Orthodox, etc) all wanted to ‘control’ the site and built chapels, etc. to stake their claim. In the 7th Century, a Muslim Sultan decreed each Christian church to have certain rights and if they failed to exercise those rights on any day, they would lose access forever. The central area (over the crucifixion mound) is ‘controlled’ by Coptics and today has a very Coptic decor orientation.



Inside the Church were so many Pilgrims. Our first 'stop' was at an alter that archeologist's say was where Christ was laid on the Cross and nailed to it. The second, and adjacent, is where the Cross was erected. The third (some 30 metres away) is where Christ was placed in a cave. Nearby is a large marble slab reputed to have been used to wash Christ after he was taken down from the Cross. Judy was fortunate to be able to kneel and say a prayer at each site.



We reflected on the fact that G’dad had disclosed to us that he’d walked the Via Dolorosa in 1939 - 80 years ago - while in the area during WW2.



Our tour moved on to other sites and finished at the Western Wall (ie Wailing Wall). Our guide told us that the place where King David proclaimed be THE site for an alter to tribute God for stopping the great plague is known as Temple Mount. Ever since, this has been THE holiest of holy sites for Jews. But, Temple Mount is now walled with a Mosque in the centre. The closest Jews can physically get to praying at the ‘rock’ is at the Western Wall (of the Mount); the Eastern wall is a Muslim Cemetery, the Northern wall is the 'official' Muslim entrance and the Southern wall an historical ruin.



After the tour ended, we headed back to several places on Via Dolorosa of interest and to Church of the Holy Sepulchre. There, at 2pm, the Church came to a standstill as a Coptic branch (don’t know which one) exercised it’s daily ‘right’. The huge church was filled with the aroma of burning Frankincense and Myrrh.



After our ‘fill’ of Christian history, we headed back to our hotel for a cleanup before heading into ‘new’ Jerusalem. What a contrast! Where ‘old’ Jerusalem is mostly Muslim - with all the clutter, untidiness and self-centredness that accompanies lower-socioeconomic communities - ‘new’ Jerusalem city centre is a clean, bustling and vibrant city. We scored some craft beer and had a great steak dinner.

Day 2: Masada, Q'umran and the Dead Sea

Today we were back on the bus headed towards the Dead Sea ‘rift’ valley. As Jerusalem is located on the plateau above the ‘trench’ of the Dead Sea, first we had to (depart the Jewish part and enter Palestine) go down to some 350m below sea level. First stop was at a cable car to ride to nearly to the top of the ‘trench’ wall. Here was the ruins of Masada, built by King Herod around 35BC as both a summer palace and also an observation castle to track the movements of those travelling along the valley. It is also an important Jewish site. Around 50AD, the Romans smashed the Jewish temple at Jerusalem. A tribe called Zealots then moved to occupy Herods’ hilltop site. In 66AD, the Romans laid siege and after about 9 months they took the ‘city’ only to find all occupants dead. Apparently, the Zealot’s decreed that they’d rather die free than be slaves to the Romans. Thus, some 6 leaders went around knifing all and sundry (it was religiously forbidden to commit suicide). The Romans left little remaining!



Back in the bus we headed to Q’umran, site of a strict Essene (religious) community where some years ago, archeologist’s discovered the Dead Sea scrolls. This Essene site was for very strict scholars practicing their religion. It is thought it was for males only (no evidence of females, children or families). They wrote much about ‘times’ and life back then. They made a living making large pots and urns. This site was of interest to us as we’d read Barbara Thearing’s text Jesus the Man - she had special access to many that are privately held (by a wealthy Palestinian). Her work has changed much of how the Bible is interpreted (not that lay Christians are told of the changes).



Back in the bus we headed for a Dead Sea resort so those interested could take a float. We headed to the Lowest Bar in the World to cool off in the 42 degree heat!



Later, after returning to the hotel, we again headed into ‘new’ Jerusalem for dinner.

Day 3: Mount of Olives, Gethsemene, Holocaust museum, Jericho and Bethlehem

Today was back on the biblical trail. First was a visit to the Mount of Olives, including the Garden of Gethsemene. Our archeological guide explained that Olive trees took about 10 years to fruit (from planting) and lived for about 700 years. To minimise the downtime, Olive orchardist's struck a new branch by drilling a hole in the trunk and inserting a young twig (with resin for glue. This way, the tree could live for as long as the orchardist’s continued the practice. Horticultural archeologists (didn’t know they existed) have shown that the Olive trees at the Garden of Gethsemene were in use when Christ was there. The reason for ‘Gethsemene’ is that that is the Hebrew name for oil press. And, the one that was aside the Garden remains. It was this garden where Christ prayed before his arrest.



Moving on, some in the group (Judy included) visited the Yad Vashem Holocaust memorial.



Later, we headed to Jericho to visit the ‘walls’ (currently being unearthed by archeologists). Jericho is located in Palestinian territory so we had leave the ‘protected’ area of Israel and head into the ‘unprotected’ area. On the Palestinian side of the Israeli wall is a hotel with the name WalledOffHotel. With tongue in cheek, the owners employed Banksy (the artist) to do a few items. She (Banksy) certainly has a sense of humour. Outside the hotel, the Israeli wall is (also) covered in cryptic graffiti.



At Jericho (after looking at walls), we were taken to a viewing platform to look at the side of the valley walls of Mount Temptation. This is where Christ fasted for 40 days and was tempted (40 days in such a dry environment without a beer, we’d be tempted too!). The site has long had a monastery; and it’s a long, steep walk up to it. Ironically, the shop beside the viewing platform (selling wares to tourists) calls itself Temptation Delight!



Back in the bus, we headed for Bethlehem. Tucked into the valley in the centre of town is the church on the site of the Inn Keepers’ cave. Unlike others we’d viewed, it is a modern church and the cave easily accessible.

Day 4 - the icons; Sea of Galilee and Nazereth

Back in the bus, we headed for Magdela (home of Mary of) then Capernaum - home of St Peter. Here, we had lunch of St Peter’s fish - a local freshwater ‘delicacy’. After lunch we headed to Tabgha where Christ performed the Multiplication miracle. Tabgha is also where Christ appeared for the third time (after the resurrection) and tested Peter. It was here also that Christ purportedly commissioned Peter to head the movement. The remains of another disciples’ house is also preserved here.



Mid afternoon we boarded a boat on the Sea of Galilee at about where Christ is said to have calmed the water. We found the water still calm. But, the songs being sung by fellow travellers was far from calm. As we headed out the pier, another boat arrived full of Carribean Pentacostals. What a sing up they were having! Not far from shore, the operators of our boat started the music and several of our group gave voice to ‘the miracle’.



Back on land we headed for Nazereth, where we visited the site of the Annunciation. Again, Judy was able to kneel and pray on the site Mary was liturgically said to have been visited by the Archangel Gabriel.

Day 5: Acre, Ceaserea, Tel Aviv

Leaving Nazereth, we headed for Acre - on the coast in the northern part of the Israel. We learnt that with a deep access port, ACRE became the ‘go to’ site for those wanting to travel (relatively) comfortably from Egypt (or Greece) to Palestine, Transjordan and Syria. The alternative was both difficult and hostile!



For our trip, the site is where Crusaders entered Palestine. Here is the (reasonably intact) fortress of the Knights of St John Hospitallier. As we learned in Portugal, these folk (and the Knights of Templar) welcomed European Christians and did a little deal; pay moneys to the Knights before one departed Europe and exchange the issued ‘ticket’ for local coin. They became quite wealthy and powerful. But, their fate came to an end when (Sultan) Suleyman came knocking (and crunching all in his path!). The site became settled by Jews around the time of WW2 and was used to advocate for their nation state.



Standing on the outermost part (at the lighthouse) our guide explained how the Muslims entrapped Napoleon. They’d built an outer wall into the ocean and with an obvious weak part, Napoleon breached the weakness and sailed in only to find his boats bombarded by canon with no way to retreat!



At the same spot we remembered that G’dad had been at Acre; his unit’s book explained how they’d run a signal cable from the lighthouse (and G’dad’s job was to run the cable).



Nearby we were shown a recently discovered tunnel used by smugglers to evade the taxes imposed by Muslim rulers on inwards cargo. We’d loved to have spent more time in Acre as it appears so interesting. But, not to be, the bus rolled on!



Back in the bus we headed south to Haifa and the Ba’Hai Gardens. Our guide explained the background of the Ba’Hai faith, that the instigators (Bab and Baha’u’llah) sought to liberalise Islam and embrace all other faiths . Having been to a Ba’Hai Temple in Sydney (with BhaktiMurti), each side of the octagonal building reflects one faith.



Moving on, our next stop was nearby along rural type backroads to a farmhouse occupied by a Druze family. Druze are an Islamic sect, but with beliefs expanding beyond the Islamic core. This was our lunch stop and what a great experience. Clearly, the family was offering tour groups lunch as their business. But what we experienced was the whole adult family serving us food they had prepared. And, it was delicious. For example, flavoured rice in a cabbage leaf roll, but the Druze version outshone anything we’d previously enjoyed.





Next stop was Ceaserea - the site of a large Roman era complex aside the Mediterranean Ocean. Of interest (for us on the biblical route) was that our archeologist had been employed by the UN to decipher some stones near an important persons’ dwelling (with an ocean swimming pool). It turns out that a large administration building was co-opted for personal use by Pontius Pilate. He even had a stone tablet engraved with detail about his position and desire to convey to others how great he was. Our guide advised that even if sceptics doubted the veracity of the Pontius Pilate in the Bible, Ceaserea confirms that he DID exist!



A short drive onwards had us at our Tel Aviv accommodation and the end of the tour.

Reflection

Both the Jordan and Israeli trips were the first ‘long’ journeys we’d done with a tour group. Partly because Bruce had committed to helping Jeremy & Lorenna complete their extension so had minimal time to undertake trip research, but also because of the language issues and geopolitical tensions, a tour group seemed a better option. Using Peregrine with their small group approach also appealed.



Overall, we spent 2 weeks doing what would likely have taken us over a month (using occasional day tours). On reflection, the other side of the ‘efficiency’ was that the tour was physically taxing. That said, it was nice to have someone else do the organising.



It was the Israel leg that initiated our use of a tour. We were uncomfortable with the idea of travelling to a nation that incurred so many cultural, religious and (geo)political tensions. Before leaving, we recognised one is either a supporter of the Palestinians (they lost their land and have since been suppressed) or Israel (going back a long way, it WAS their land). We’ve come away realising that status, land use (ownership) and persecution in the name of religion has been at the core for millenia. And, it doesn’t appear likely to end anytime soon.



We could see how the Israeli get so frustrated at the Palestinians. No doubt the latter have a chip on their shoulder, but at the same time they adhere to a religious culture that disrespects all but immediate family and good friends, and treats ‘others’ with disdain (at best) or contempt (mostly). Thus, they appear unwilling to search for peace. We failed to comprehend how Jordanians - led by their King - took every opportunity to resolve conflict and pursue peace. We noted that Jordan lost much of its land to Israel in the 187 (6 Day) war. While we could experience the difference, it was not possible for us to understand how and why two similar peoples can be so different.



To us, the Israeli’s appear equally irresponsible. They spend vast sums on infrastructure for Jewish settlements and SFA on the Palestinians (whose land they control and administer). On the ‘wrong’ side of the wall, they let huge multistorey housing apartment blocks be built within metres of each other knowing that the buildings lie on a major earthquake fault line. As our guide pointed out, should another earthquake of a similar magnitude of (about) 1903 re-occur, the loss of life will be horrendous.

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Photos

Jordan River
Purported to be where Christ was baptised by John.

Jerusalem
Diagram showing (current) old town

Jerusalem
Relief map showing old town at time of Christ

Jerusalem
Garden purported to be where Mary's parents had a dwelling

Jerusalem
Excavated 'Pool of Bethesda'

Jerusalem
Station on Via Dolorosa

Jerusalem
Church of Holy Sepulchre

Jerusalem
Purported site (within the Church of Holy Sepulchre) where Christ was laid on the Cross.

Q'umran
Site of the caves (found containing) the Dead Sea Scrolls

Dead Sea
Lowest bar in the world - is that a statement of altitude or customers?

Jerusalem
Garden of Gesthemene

Nazareth
Basilica of the Annunciation - at night

Nazareth
Entry to the Basilica of the Annunciation

Jerusalem
Via Dolorosa

Jerusalem
Purported site within Church of the Holy Sepulchre where the Cross was erected.

Jerusalem
Taken from Mount of Olives