Rosh Pina area Day 3: Alma Cave and catching up with friends

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After breakfast Don planned to investigate Alma Cave. This is north of Safed, about 20km from the spa. He expected to be gone for several hours. Meanwhile Lesley was free to lounge around the hotel, read her book, enjoy a facial treatment in the spa, to do whatever she fancied.



Don describes his experience:

Despite the hot weather (33C and above) I dressed in classic denim bluejeans and a long-sleeve thick cotton shirt. I also removed my sandals and put on hiking boots over thick socks. From what I had read, the terrain around and within the cave warranted reasonable skin protection and climbing leverage. I drove along a winding mountain road and passed Safed toward Rehaniya, following directions in an article I had read about caves in Israel. As directed, I turned onto an unpaved road and drove another 2km until I reached what was obviously the last place to park an ordinary vehicle.

From this point the path presented a very rocky descent, sometimes mild and sometimes steep, for a couple of hundred meters. My choice of footwear was already proven correct. Then I reached a pair of signs announcing the Alma Cave area. One panel was in English (the others Arabic and Hebrew) which mainly cautioned about the risks of the terrain and warned not to disturb bats in the cave. Unfortunately I could not see any clear trail markers from the sign to the cave itself. The article had mentioned dirt paths with red trail markers, but there were none. I noticed a few posts with screw-holes which might have held further signs (now missing) but they were sparsely spread and not in any obvious sequence. Instead there were scattered bits of litter (naughty!) which seemed to indicate the route that previous (careless) people had taken, so I followed these occasional empty bottles and food wrappers.

When I spotted some people ahead of me, I clambered over the rocky path in that direction. This led me to a tree under which a few people sat or stood, but it was clear from their clothing that they were not dressed properly for caving. Indeed they were simply eyeing a large deep hole which probably was part of the cave. I looked around for an entrance but none was visible. I walked all the way around the area, sometimes following litter and sometimes what appeared to be worn pathways. Large stinging nettles comprised most of the foliage, so I was glad to be wearing my thick jeans.



The weather was heating significantly, and I was getting more frustrated. Alma Cave is 500 meters inside, with many chambers and interior corridors. It has extensive stalactites and is one of the largest and most impressive caves in Israel. But all I could find was a steep hole that I would have to jump down (20 feet?) with no apparent means to get back up. If this was the true cave entrance, then I was simply stuck. Supposedly there was a pole situated to help climbers down and up again, and maybe I saw this unlabelled pole but did not bring my own rope. Honestly I did not intend to explore the cave all on my own, since that seems as unsafe as swimming alone. I had hoped to meet some other spelunkers who at least knew the basics of Alma Cave and ask them to allow me to tag along. Lacking other companions, I was at least hoping to enter the front of the cave so see and photograph whatever I could without venturing beyond the cave mouth. No dice!

Oh well at least I got exercise trekking around the long winding rocky paths through the scrub in that area … and it gave Lesley a break from me for several hours. Next time we are in the area, ideally our daughter and I can book an experienced guide in advance and really explore Alma Cave along with other interesting spots nearby.



On the drive back to the spa I passed the town of Dalton. Three years ago my older brother and his wife visited us and toured around Israel. We spent a couple of days with them in Safed and together went for a tasting at the Dalton winery. While it was nice being with family then, in comparison, yesterday at the Ramot Naftaly Winery was much more interesting.



In Safed I stopped for fuel at a petrol station and checked in with Lesley. She was not a happy camper. The garden room I had booked was plaguing her with biting bugs. She had complained and the hotel management sent staff to eliminate ants in the sink and flying bugs around the room. Lesley said she wanted to change rooms and that I should return to the hotel asap.



At the hotel we inspected our room and it seemed better. Besides whatever treatment they applied, there was also a plug-in bug chemical dispenser (like the ones we have at home) in the wall socket near the bed. The manager said we could change rooms if we were still unhappy. We discussed it and agreed to stay for the remaining two nights. Generally the bugs were less intrusive, although Lesley really attracts them and got lots of bites during our stay at Mitzpe Hayamim.



Now it was time for Lesley to have a facial in the spa. Luckily it was the nicest such treatment she had received, so that improved her mood substantially.



Meanwhile Don decided on a relatively light workout in the gym. He did all the stretches before and after that our personal trainer directs with him. Then he exercised for about half the duration and using half the hand-weights as his trainer sessions at home. He relaxed and read on the deck outside the pool area, and Lesley joined him there. The day kept improving as we proceeded to shower and dress (informally!) for dinner.



We have a pair of friends who live in Safed, and whom we haven't seen for years. Our original plan was to meet them for dinner at our favourite Rosh Pina restaurant called Meatbalim but that popular place was fully booked for a private function. In response our friends booked another restaurant in Safed called Ha'Ari-8 where coincidentally we had eaten a very nice meal with my brother years before; but then the restaurant called to say they had lost power and were closing before dinner. A third option was nixed because of fires along the road north of Safed. Oy!

Ultimately things worked out for the best. Our friends said just come over to their house and they will order food in. They live on a hillside and have magnificent views of the valley and Mount Meron with its pretty lights in the distance. The food was very good and it was wonderful to sit and catch up in an informal setting. There was no competing muzak nor other noisy diners. Furthermore after 1.5 years of seeing most people only virtually (Zoom) it was great to spend time with real live humans.



Thus our third day seemed to end on a good note despite some things not going as originally planned.

Then as we returned to our room, Don was complaining about cramped muscles in both legs. Normally he tries to ignore pain despite frequently bumping and bruising himself. This time apparently the combination of ambling around the rocky area of Alma Cave combined with a light gym workout triggered his painful situation. He could not get comfortable and took a couple of Tylenol during the night when he was having trouble sleeping.



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