Blogs from Shiraz, South, Iran, Middle East - page 4

Advertisement

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz April 28th 2009

Dzis od rana wcielalysmy sie w muzulmanki. Poszlismy do najwietszego meczetu, gdzie aby wejsc potrzebowalysmy zawinac sie w wygladajace jak przescieradla czadory od stop do glow. Bylo osbne wejscie meskie i osobne damskie, w okienku dostawalo sie przescieradlo i w pelnym rynsztunku dopiero mozna bylo wejsc do srodka - a tam wielki dziedziniec, fontanna, rodzaj parku polaczonego z domem kultury. Po placu chodzily strazniczki cale na czarno z takimi naelektryzowanymi szczoteczkami do kyrzu, ktorymi smyraly sie po twarzy. Nie wiem, czy faktycznie mialy za zadanie wycierac jakies kurze, czy tylko te szczoteczki dzierzyly niczym berla - znak kobiecego miejsca. Raz sie prtzydaly, zwrocily mamie uwage, ze za duzo wlosow wystaje jej spod przescieradla. W srodku poszczegolnych meczetow troche klimat bazaru czy poczekalni - dziewczyny pisza smsy (nam nie pozwolono wniesc aparatu), dzieci biegaja, ... read more
Tu kazano nam sie zawinac w przescieradla.
I tak sie prezentowalysmy.
Szkolne dziewczynki.

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz April 26th 2009

W niedziele rano polecielismy do Shiraz. Jakies 500 km na poludnie w linii prostej. No i od razu bardziej goraco, okolo pewnie 25 stopni w miescie, bardzo przyjemnie, gdyby nie te chustki na glowach, dlugie spodnie i dlugie rekawy. I zakryte buty. Mowi sie, ze Shiraz to miasto poetow. Jezeli tak, to ich romantyczne dusze z pewnoscia objawiaja sie w fakcie, ze tu przynajmniej zatrzymuja sie, zeby przepuscic pieszych na ulicy. W Teheranie kazde przejscie przez ulice moglo byc ostatnim. Stad tez wywodzi sie nazwa wina Shiraz. My jednak musimy sie tylko raczyc whisky, ktora M&A udalo sie przemycic w walizce. Po nocy wiec rozpijamy ja z kolka w szklankach do mycia zebow. Na trawienie. A propos trawienia, mam nadzieje, ze dzis uda mi sie sie zaciagnac towarzystwo do libanskiej knajpy, bo iranska kuchnia zdecydowanie nie ... read more
Twierdza w Shiraz.
Pod meczetem sprzedaja ksiezke Arnolda Schwarzeneggera.
Kolorowe kafle w meczecie - part 1.

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz April 24th 2009

Pierwsze moje spotkanie z Iranem, a wlasciwie z jego polska emanacja pod postacia ambasady mialo miejsce, gdy w koncu doczekalismy sie na pozwolenie z teheranskiego ministerstwa, zeby nam widali wize. Do dzis nie wiem, jakie to wlasciwie bylo ministerstwo, ale wyglada na to, ze juz samo slowo na "M" otwiera wiele drzwi. Zanim przyszlo nasze pozwolenie, probowalam sie do ambasady / wydzialu konsularnego przez kilka dni bezskutecznie dodzwonic. Ambasada miesci sie na cichej uliczce Saskiej Kepy, w jej srodku panuje rozgardiasz, ktory ukrywany jest pod pozorami remontu. Moj zolty plaszcz i glosny smiech (nerwowy) kolidowaly z zakurzona atmosfera biurowosci. Osoba odpowiedzialna za wydawanie wiz byla akurat na urloie, wiec formularze i zdjecia przyjela od nas jej kolezanka - w przepisowej chustce na glowie i tunice z dlugim rekawem zapietej pod szyje. Zeby tylko przypadkiem jakiegos bezbron ... read more

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz March 16th 2009

There was a real adrenaline rush when I entered here. The joy, the fist pumps - all built up from the anxiety of whether I was going to get in or not, even though I had my VISA but not a flight out. With an open mind, no pre-conceptions I agreed that I will be as trusting as I have ever been. I wanted this to be the most open I have been in any country. I arrived in Shiraz (central Iran) with a bloated bladder and a toilet on the other side of customs. I got through customs without a problem and exchanged money. Iran has a confusing thing with money. They have Tomans and Rials. Rials are the official currency but everyone talks in Tomans. Tomans is a 0 less than Rials and now ... read more
Friday at teh Shrine
Local kids at Sa'id Tomb
Shiraz

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz November 29th 2008

Just getting to Iran has been the biggest challenge of this little sojourn. With visas required for the four of the countries I intended to visit this time round the visa chase before departure was a little insane. As soon as the passport came back it was off to another consulate. All in a set sequence as some of the visas were valid for three months from the time they were issued. Add to this was the last minute decision to go to Iran due to Dubai looking way too expensive for a week (even if the Rugby Sevens were on) and there being a cheap airfare to Shiraz. So one month out my passport headed off to the Iranian Embassy in Canberra with the hope that it would make it back before I left. Two ... read more
Carpet shop for all your Persian Rugs needs
One of the many Mosques around town
The Regent's (or Vakil) Mosque.

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz October 16th 2008

The overnight bus trip from Kerman to Shiraz was awful. Buses are not my preferred place for sleeping, I prefer a bed. Sitting next to me was Iman, a top bloke and Chris De Burgh fan (of course). On arrival at Shiraz bus terminal I was besieged by taxi drivers, and being tired and grumpy, started telling them to f*ck off. Eventually I gave in, and was dropped at the guest house which was owned and run by the Sepah militia aka the fanatical religious police. Shiraz is a beautiful city, and I manage to check out a few sights on the first day, including the Arg-e Karim Khan. Later in the evening I am sitting outside the Arg, contemplating my next move, when I am approached by Abbas, who asks me if I want him ... read more

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz July 1st 2008

Here in Shiraz, the city of the poet Hafez, wine, grapes and poetry, nightingales and roses; the people are even friendlier and more relaxed than elsewhere in Iran. They pride themselves on their liberal attitudes and sophisticated way of living. Shiraz is most famous for the ancient site of Persepolis which is nearby. Someone who will remain nameless, and should know better, said ‘Oh you saw the film in Iran, I wouldn’t have thought they would show it there!’ They have shown the film a few times in Tehran apparently, so that is a small victory. But no, I saw the ancient Achaemenid site, one of the most complete sites from this area of the world. It was started by Darius the Great in 518BC as a summer palace for ritual purposes, where the many peoples ... read more
Me at Persepolis
Persepolis
Persepolis

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz May 14th 2008

Border Crossing After the previous day’s disappointment and a poor night’s sleep we were up early; 7.30am saw us at a modern bus office, awaiting our bus to Oromiyhe. Come 9.00am and three different bus offices later (each one progressively more dingy) we finally boarded the bus. The journey through south east Turkey and into Iran was a joy; winding through stunningly beautiful mountains and over high, snow covered passes. It’s a Kurdish area and whilst we felt safe, apparently local people will not use the route other than during the day, thus explaining the number of military checkpoints we had to pass through for the tourists’ protection. Later we heard that there had been some trouble in the area sadly resulting in deaths on both sides but every effort is made to keep tourists ... read more
Oromihye – In Mohamed’s Garden
Tehran’s Traffic
Soltan Amir Ahmad’s Bathouse

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz September 11th 2007

In Iran, there is a governmental firewall. Our blog was blocked in some places, but not in others. That's why we couldn't post this blog entry from Shiraz and we do it now from Yazd. Iran's South West As we began to tell you in our last blog entry, our first ten days in Iran were literally an immersion in Iranian culture and society. After Tabriz, we haven't seen any tourists until Shiraz, except one Spanish guy in Zanjan. This experience was both exciting and exhausting. Curious and interested in meeting people and discovering small places off the beaten tracks, we progressively realized that it also takes a lot of energy and that we could not go on like this for weeks! Language problems will be less of an issue in a few years however... (Very) ... read more
Sanandaj - The two of us in a old restorated bath
Vintage 60's Mercedes bus
Shush - Men in typical Arabic cloths

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz August 23rd 2007

The 14th century poet Hafez, gave me a sign to me before I left to Iran. Randomly turning to his page of poems, I had concluded through his words that it was right for me to go back to his land to find out more about Iran. he was right. When i sat at the base of his tomb's gazebo, i felt a distinct connection as i sat there with his anthology. Although i'm far from being Iranian (ie. being Jap-Aussie) there was a certain quality I felt when i stared upon his tombstone. Shiraz is a marvellous city indeed, full of mystical elements. This time, friends didnt shower me with 'Why are you going to Iran out of all places?' questions, but 'why bloody hell NOW in August???'. Simple. Iranian night life comes into ... read more
Karim Khan citadel
karim Khan citadel
Shopping




Tot: 2.883s; Tpl: 0.037s; cc: 7; qc: 96; dbt: 0.0768s; 1; m:saturn w:www (104.131.125.221); sld: 1; ; mem: 1.6mb