Portraits of turbanned Ayatollah Khomeini are everywhere, whether it be on a huge billboard in Tehran or a postcard pasted on a goat-shed in Kurdistan. Eventually, it came to the point that he felt like a friendly smoking buddy on my trip, and I was no longer intimidated by his signature 'angry Sean Connery' look. Anywhere, I'd light up a cig, feel his stare, and nod in acknowledgement. Yo, long day man. The national icon has become the visitor's local mate. In all urban areas, local hot spots happen to be located on either Imam Khomeini street or square, so it's a dead giveaway when you're new in town. Can't read Arabic numerals on your Iranian rial bills? Not to worry, the street vendor will tell you how many 'Khomeinis' he wants. Can't read street
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