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The panorama is part of the view from the house. In the evening the sun looks as though it is rolling down the end of the Akamas Peninsular to set in the sea.
I am back in Polis with Barry & Carolyn, having returned from Gazimagusa (Famagusta) back to Nicosia where I spent 3 nights which gave me the chance to walk around Nicosia (Lefkosia) old town ( in the Republic of Cyprus) and North Nicosia (Lefkosa) across the buffer zone in the Turkish part.
My hotel was very comfortable and conveniently located just off the side of Ledra Street which is the main pedestrian shopping precinct that leads up to the checkpoint. So in 5 minutes I could cross the border. It was called Royiatiko which I thought was a strange, non-Greek sounding name. I should have known better as Royakan is the name for Japanese traditional guest houses, so yes, it is a Japanese hotel which came as a surprise but a pleasant one as it was exceptionally clean & comfortable as you would expect in Japan!
As soon as I had checked in,
Leventis Municipal Museum
Hard to spot from outside, I walked past first timeI left my bag and headed to the Leventis Municipal Museum. After the death of Anastasios G Leventis In 1978, a very wealthy Cypriot business man, the Leventis Foundation was created. The Foundation helped establish the Leventis Municipal Museum as well as the AG Leventis Gallery.
The Museum is a great place to spend half a day getting to grips with the history of Nicosia from the Bronze Age and earlier. I found it fascinating. There are archaeological finds as you would expect but for me it was the day to day lives of the different cultures that had taken control of Cyprus through the ages that held my interest. Clothing, furniture, religious artefacts, crafts etc of all the invaders are displayed with examples of superb workmanship. It also highlights the relationships between different religions and the waxing and waning of influence of the Greek Orthodox Church and Roman Catholic Church as well as displaying their superb sacred items.
I could have easily spent two days there. On display are wonderful traveller’s books going back as far as the 16th Century. I never dreamt such things existed. The excerpts on
Leventis Municipal Museum
Pottery from 14th & 15th Centuries looks very modern to me because of drawings & colours show provide intriguing insights into the bravery and uncertainty of travel in earlier times.
Then I reached the section describing the British in Cyprus which triggers a range of emotions, especially the role of EOKA, the group who fought for independence and had a very large proportion of students and young people in their ranks and who are revered as Cypriot heroes.
I did find it confusing at times to follow the chronology of displays but that is a petty gripe in such an amazing place. I would have loved to visit the Cyprus Museum too, but as I arrived on Saturday and left on Tuesday (the part of the week when they are closed), I didn’t have chance.
On Sunday morning I went out early to walk around the Old City while it was quiet, viewing the Omerlye Mosque, the beautiful leafy and well spaced area around the Archbishop’s Palace, and the Agios Ioannis Church until I reached the Famagusta gate. This was once the main entrance into the city through the Venetian walls which surround the whole city, north and south and have
a strange snowflake shape when seen on a map. It was a peaceful walk and I heard sermons and singing echoing out of churches. There are very pretty terraces of houses on both sides of the buffer zone where people decorate their houses with flowers to detract from the ugly barbed wire visible to many of them. It looks as though some houses are being renovated but there are still many left empty.
Then I came upon my first view of the Green Line, the boundary between the Republic of Cyprus and the northern part occupied by Turkish Cypriots. Many streets come to an abrupt end, cut off by barbed wire and barricades. Lookout points and signs forbid access or photography. Buildings adjoining the barriers are derelict and collapsing in places. It is depressing to see such an incision across a city.
I had been warned that photography was not allowed but I did take one from a long way away of just the end of a road thinking that was safe. No-one was around. But a little later, further away, I had not realised I was within sight of
the line as I was too busy taking a photograph of a pretty house, when a VERY loud voice shouted ‘NO PHOTOS’. I put the camera down, gave a wave of acknowledgment and backed away quickly!
My last day in Nicosia I crossed the border back into the North so I could have a good walk around. I headed for the Selimiye Mosque, which was previously the Agia Sofia church built during the Lusignan period so it looks very like French cathedrals. Unfortunately the whole building is covered by scaffolding and much of it clothed with tarpaulins! It was such a shame as it was almost invisible. Once the work is completed it should be stunning.
I carried on to the Bedestan, dating back to the 6th Century, when it was built as a Byzantine church. When the Ottomans arrived it was used as a grain store and now is used as a cultural centre. Next came the Buyuk Han, a Turkish caravanserai which has been restored. It was built in 1572 by an Ottoman governor, to provide a secure place where travellers and traders could stop to rest, pray,
Silver buckle for waist
Huge, see size of my hand take care of their horses, carry out commerce and prepare to move on. Han means inn. This Han has an unusual Islamic prayer chapel, balanced on six pillars over a fountain where devotees could carry out their ablutions before prayers. The entrances are strongly built with double walled stone gates and large wooden doors. A friend of B&C’s reminded me that within the large door, a very small one is inset to allow someone to enter when the main door is closed. This is called, the ‘eye of the needle’. So this explains the advice from Jesus that it is easier for a camel to enter through the eye of a needle (ie impossible) than a rich man to enter the gates of heaven!
Soon I reached the Roccas Bastion on the walls to the west of North Nicosia and here I had a clear view into the buffer zone for the first time. Below the steep walls is a wide, flat space with the Republic up a slope on the other side. In the middle is a high lookout tower with UN stencilled on the sides of the sentry box. I could not see
anyone in it but after my previous day’s experience I decided not to take a photograph. There were signs prohibiting them.
On the way back to the border I passed a very smart shop selling Turkish sweets. I was offered a taste of one and it was delicious. I had thought they mainly produced Turkish Delight, the rose petal jelly-like sweets but not so. There was a whole selection of enticing offerings, each a visual work of art. So I bought some for Barry for his birthday in the hope he might share the odd one. I can report he was very generous!
As I had a couple of hours left on my last day I went to the AG Leventis Gallery. Leventis owned a home in Paris where he kept his art collection but after his death the Gallery received many of his paintings. The Gallery has a Paris collection, and Greek and Cypriot collections. The works are all well displayed in a cool and pleasant building. On reading the literature ( Greek with full English translation) I was puzzled by one comment about how at one period there
Archbishop Makarios
Bust & statues of the first leader of the Republic of Cyprus are common had been a desire to create a recognisable ‘Greek’ style. Much effort was put into this but I don’t know if it was considered a success or not! But it posed the question for me whether other countries can be identified through their art. I know I had difficulty thinking of Greek artists but I know a few now! Do we generally think of art being in national styles? I had never thought about that before. I enjoyed the everyday life portrayed in much of the work, less formal subject matter than often found in work of the 18th and 19th Centuries.
The next day I had to return to Polis but there were still many sights to see in Nicosia if I had had more time. Perhaps that is a good reason to return.
The return journey to Polis via Paphos went very smoothly and I was soon back with B&C who had had a busy social time in my absence, but had enough energy left to take me to see some local sights the next day. First we went to visit Scarfos Bridge which sounds as if it
has escaped from the Lake District, rather than being located in Cyprus. It is an old stone bridge over a small stream ( the stream has recently been redirected as it had changed its course and stopped flowing under the bridge), which provides a haven for insects, birds and butterflies. Next we went to a gorge at Peristerona where the lookout provides a good spot to look for raptors although we only spotted members of the crow family. There was a monument to the people who fought for freedom in the EOKA organisation against the British. Despite it being a very hot day, ( summer has arrived) we went on to Evroutou Dam which was built by the British and provides water to the area. As Cyprus had a wetter than usual winter it is quite full.
Then it was back to socialising again, eating out one night to say farewell to a couple returning home, then two days later seven of us went out to dinner to celebrate Barry’s birthday. The meal was fantastic. Carolyn had selected in advance, starters from the menu as well as main dishes such as chicken kebabs,
Independence day
Crowd welcoming the Archbishop a pork stew cooked in red wine and coriander seeds called Afelia, kefstedes which is similar to meat balls, and more, but all to share, and brought to the table, a few dishes at a time. Another new dish was saganaki, sliced tomatoes layered over feta cheese and heated until the cheese melts - delicious. There was too much to eat but it was an absolute feast and gave me a chance to try new dishes. Barry seemed to have a good birthday which I hope compensates a little for the big celebration that had to be cancelled when Covid arrived!
I recovered enough by the next day to go for a boat trip along the coast to see the scenery with the chance to jump in for a dip. It was not really a snorkelling area but I enjoyed the swim and it was made even more enjoyable when the Polish group sitting at my table insisted on topping up my wine!
On the Friday evening we went to a bar with live music, the Fly Again. A very good guitarist plays. B&C like it because in his second
Monument to ‘Freedom Fighters’
It represents a sheaf of papers, the leaflets against the British, largely distributed by students set he plays music that they can jive too! They know all the moves!
Barry & Carolyn took me to view Afrodite Baths with a warning from Carolyn that I might find the experience underwhelming. But in fact it is a very pretty place with lovely walks around it, and along the coast. We spotted a greenfinch and a Cyprus pied Wheatear. Carolyn and I make a good birdwatching team as she is very good at hearing and recognising bird songs, something I just can’t do, and she also spots movement in the trees. Poor Barry was very patient will our stop/start progression along paths as we tried to track down birds and butterflies. Afrodite is very important in the history of Cyprus as it was believed that the goddess rose from the sea foam and came ashore. The baths are where she went to relax and bathe between lovers. At one time there was a cult like following of her that was almost a religion in itself. It is another example of this blending of myth and reality in Greek & Cypriot culture
Only a couple of nights later
Entrance to Buyuk Han
Strong walls and gates to provide protection we were out for a meal again. A Cypriot friend who had attended Barry’s birthday celebration wanted to return the hospitality by taking us (B, C and I) out to the fish restaurant in Polis. This was a completely different type of meal as we ate meze, small dishes to share again but they consisted mainly of seafood & fish. We started with salad, bread, tzatziki and hummus, which was soon followed by very large chunky chips, prawns, calamari, octopus legs, and small fish, including red mullet. Then we finished with one big fish which had had the flesh eased off the bone. It was all very good although I did leave the octopus legs alone! Years ago I tried calamari and it was horribly chewy but I thought I should give it another try. This time it was very tasty and soft.
We had very good service until about 10 o’clock when the staff started clearing the empty tables and moving tables and chairs inside with great haste. Then we found out that there were two weddings going on in the village and all the staff were going but not until guests went home.
By then there were only two tables still full, ours and a group of Cypriots from Nicosia celebrating a birthday. They brought us some birthday cake which was a nice end to the evening.
On the way home, we stopped at another restaurant to book a table for yet another meal, our last evening in Polis. As we were walking out another couple started talking to us and it was at least half an hour later before we finally left. Polis is a very sociable place!
So now it is time to start packing. However C & I popped out for a walk in the neighbourhood late last evening and had four brief viewings of an owl, or two. Not sure if it was the same one we kept seeing. They have been seen in the area previous years when B&C were bewildered by the sound of snoring near some trees. On looking it up they found out that young owls in particular ‘snore’ when waiting for parents to bring them food. You learn something new every day!
I have had a fascinating time here
Prayer room inside Han
Space for people to sleep inside, look after their animals, pray, & buy and sell. Gates locked at night for security in Cyprus, finding much more to see and do than I had expected. I am grateful to B&C not only for inviting me along, but also for encouraging me to go and visit places on my own. It has helped rebuild my confidence about travelling solo which will have a big impact on future plans.
My immediate plans involve a trip to Egypt to snorkel so next blog will hopefully be from there. Enjoy the Platinum Jubilee celebrations everyone!
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