Siracusa and Ragusa - walking hot but then super food

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After a late start (busy people-watching from the balcony) we were on the road using the Garmin as our guide. Everything was going great except the roads were getting narrower and narrower and signs were showing places we'd never heard of. Ross and I have come to rely on Garmin's wisdom but not so for our driver. He was facing major S curves, potholes, asphalt breaking away to the right on the cliffs - the rest of us were enamoured of the great scenery and I was continually snapping pics. After we passed a cow within inches I tried locating us on the Google Earth map. There we were a little dot way up in the mountains not on the 116 but actually heading towards it. Our goal was Randazzo for lunch but we were out by an hour with our estimation. When we finally arrived we walked up to a cafe and there were the Brits just finishing coffee and cakes. Seems they were out by an hour as well because of some country fair and they were stuck in stop and go traffic - hmm - potholes and narrow versus good road but stop and go in 30 degree heat. Found out the one open restaurant was full until 4 pm so we sat down for coffee and pastry. No one had a pastry they particularly liked but that was lunch. Took the requisite photos and then on to Siracusa with good roads and no recalculating. Drove up to an ultra modern hotel just outside the old town. Sauntered through town until we agreed on a restaurant in a lovely town square with the buildings underlit in gold light, an accordion player (luckily further up the square) and a marionette show going on close by. I only remember that one course was very, very good and the other average. A little black and white cat was alert to every bite we took of our fish. Slow walk back to the hotel - many photos.

Walk day. J&D decided to scour the old town on foot so we went out to the national park area and promptly got lost. We ended up at a different entrance to the park but decided to start from there anyway. Thank goodness. We saw the main highlights of the park by climbing down and up the gorge only twice and we had a great lunch spot by the cold pool at the base. I'm happy we had stopped to pick up bread, ham and cheese (seems to be the national food here if it's not pasta) and drinks. The heat was withering but beside the pool was refreshing. Managed photos of the bat cave, many necropoli, gorge views and the pool. Now this hike took us about 3 hours instead of the 5 hours if we'd gone by the written directions provided. Lucky me!!!

Back to the hotel for a nice soaking bath in our loft bathroom - quite unique but a bit of a scramble in the middle of the night when time is of the essence! Dinner was a bit tricky to find but worth the walk. J had to get her order corrected twice but loved the resulting dish. I loved the shrimp appetizer with chick pea sauce. We had a cockroach visit the table and Ross made one of his great baseball motions to the waiter to get it removed from the table. I asked why he hadn't just asked the waiter but he said he was trying to be discreet - well a man in the middle of the tables wildly doing windmill motions with full arms extended doesn't seem to me to be discreet. It was removed.

Next morning we took a boat ride around the peninsula. Great way to see the city with just the 4 of us and the driver(?). He sat back after extending some fishing lines and leaned back using his feet to steer the boat. We were up and down taking photos. Entered some of the caves along the shoreline and just generally revelled in the beautiful weather and setting. The driver did catch a swordfish - good size but just as it got boatside, it broke off the hook. I hope my other camera got the shot of the fish. Packed and off to Ragusa.

Normal driving until we hit Modica. Was gobsmacked by the homes and apartments that went up the side of the hill and looked like they were built on top of one another. So busy gawking that we didn't give D any instructions for driving and we were once again getting into one of those narrow street mazes where you can only turn one way and it was always going up and getting narrower. Eventually managed to find a turning around spot and retraced our route. Now to Ragusa. Another tiny town and after another maze we passed within 30 feet of the hotel but it was one-way the wrong way. Parked the car and the guys went back to get directions. Turns out we park on a main street 6 floors down. Drag the suitcases a bit, then up a nice smooth and cool tunnel to an elevator up 4 floors to reception. Great service and rooms were very modern. Went walking for lunch but we were too late (4 pm) so found a taverna and more bread things and a salad. Later out for dinner at a great place and all courses were very good. Prices good too. Next day walk day. J&D decided to go to the beaches while we walked yet another gorge in 29 degrees. Down 500 stairs to reach the walk then ford a stream. The first 45 minutes were painful - heat out in the open and UP. Then down in shade with some interesting woods and panoramas. Of course we crossed the stream at the bottom of the gorge 6 times in total. Now that means 3 times up to the top of the gorge to see the view and then 3 times down again. HIGHLIGHT - At one point we came to a hermitage and there were some workers there but I was watching my footsteps not them. I thought Ross was right behind me and I turned to ask him directions. I turned right into a beautiful, muscled, bronzed chest with amazing abs - did not see the face. He extended his Michelangelo's David's arm but instead of embracing me in a full body press his arm pointed the direction I needed to go. Ross then came up right behind him. Mmm. It took us a total of 5 hours to do 11 km but with all the terrain I guess that was pretty good (photos and lunch stop too of course).

While we were walking J&D met the Brits and plans were made to dine together that evening. Em was fluent in Italian which made menu ordering the easiest yet. A large group of twenty plus were sitting beside us celebrating Freddy's 80th birthday. We joked with them a bit and they offered champagne and apologized for the noise. It hadn't bothered us at all as we were quite vocal ourselves. D. eloquently relived his dousing in the gorge when he tried to cross the stream in Pantalico Ranch Park the day before. I'm sure there are quite a few court attendees who would have loved to see this. Another great day and then off to Agrigento next.

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Photos

stairs to the bathroom
I know it's blurry but that's what it would look like without my glasses

so many of these throughout the gorge
Not sure if I would want to be buried here

driving in Modica
this was the easy part before it narrowed

see I really am here
actually just after the pee break