D27 - 29: Off to Wales and Pembrokeshire

---

(Ok for the life of me I can't find what I wrote for July 15th when I left London to come to Cardiff... but uh, basically I was on a bus for a few hours and then I bummed around Cardiff because I've been here enough times I just like to bum around and yes. Exciting. Woot.)

July 16 + 17: Pembrokeshire

Story of my life, of course when I land in rural Wales the wifi doesn't work... creates an adventure alright. Also creates one very long travel journal 😉

So, Wednesday I headed down to Pembrokeshire by train via Carmarthean. Two things I love about train travel here: one is the chug-a-lug is much louder in a good way and two is all the Welsh names haha. I mean you have to love a language where Llanelli is pronounced something like Klanethli and Tenby becomes Dinbych-y-pysgod in Welsh. What a language.

Of course you have to appreciate the landscape as you lug along as well - all the cute small towns and the horses and sheep that stay right up against the tracks... they give not a care that we are crossing their path. On that note, the train's whistle sounded almost like a donkey - a weird hee-haw-bee-bong horn. Intriguing haha.

I got off in Lamphey where I originally thought I'd have a 35min walk to the BnB I was staying at but then I realized there was a bus in 10min. Beautiful. Not that I mind the walk but they're one-lane-two-way-traffic roads and just aren't ideal for walking.

While waiting this lady arrived and we got to chatting - she moved here about a decade ago and we were talking about how beautiful the area is but "oh the winters" hahaha. She asked where I was from and nodded, "yes I thought you sounded more northern". Well, that's a first..? Anyway, she had a friend visit TO last winter and she commented on our own brutal winters. Ah, snow.

(I'd like to point out that last time I was in Wales pretty much everyone I spoke with wanted to talk weather. I swear, the Welsh and Canadians are the same people.)

We also talked about tourism in the area, how I timed my visit well because schools in the UK get out next week and then it gets insanely busy. Ah yes, there's a method to my planning madness. I asked if ot was mostly UK visitors though - apparently so which surprised me somewhat... but I guess if you ask a lot of North Americans about holiday plans, Wales doesn't usually jump to mind. Whatever, their loss because Wales is a little piece of heaven.

I arrived at my BnB a little early, so I sat in the dining room and drank a cup of tea while I waited for my room to be ready. I made a new friend during this time - their kitty came to say hello. What a little sweetheart he was - rubbing between my legs and purring and just demanding that I keep petting him under his chin. Not that he had to be very insistent - I miss my Homie so he was a good fill in haha.

Once I got settled in I headed out for Freshwater East in the attempt to head east on the coastal path towards Manobier. Alas, the weather gods had different plans.

The walk started off well - I found the path no problem which wad a feat in itself. I walked thru the forest for a bit, saw an old tire swing and the old city well before the path veered steeply downwards towards the beach. Off we go!

It's a nice enough beach. I mean beautiful but by Wales standards not the most amazing. I did like the massive boulders and the puddles that were created along the cliffs and rocks. Made for some interesting shots. I also got nice views up and down both sides of the coast. I walked maybe an hour along the beach before I decided to head back on to the coastal path and get going.

And of course this is when it started to rain. But it was a light rain so I didn't pay much attention, more of a most really. So up I went. I was just glad it wasn't too high/steep a climb, nothing like it was in Dorset.

Despite the rain I got a few more nice shots, but then about 20min into that part of the walk it started to pour. And it can't just pour now can it - nooooooo sir. The wind was so strong that it was raining sideways. And I'm sure I've said that before of the UK but this was the most horizontal I've ever seen it - literally raining right at me from the waterfront. I wish I could have captured that moment.

I had to put my camera away at this point because it was just too heavy. I kept walking hoping it would let up but then the fog/mist cover rolled in and again all I wanted was a good photo haha. I whipped my camera out to try and get a quick shot before shoving it back under my coat - it was so foggy it wouldn't focus and wouldn't take the shot.

I carried on for another 20min maybe before deciding to call it a day. Not only could I not really see (I ended up taking my glasses off it was so rainy, plus the fog), but I was at the bottom of a stair case and truthful just didn't want to start climbing when I didn't know how long it would go or be able to enjoy a view at the top hahaha. Lazy tourist hiker.

Heading back was difficult enough - I put my glasses back on for awhile not that they did me much good. The rain did let up slightly so I tried to get a few photos and this time it worked.

I'm impressed I found my way back to town truth be told lol. The walk was so damn wet in the forest though... no match for my hiking boots that had managed fine until the soaken grass.

I had a very lazy evening after that spent enjoying having my own room at the BnB - a proper bed and pillow, a real shower with a gloriously fluffy towel (sing alleluia) and a selection of teas and hot chocolate which kept me in a warm beverage coma the rest of the night.

Today was a glorious beach day. Just glorious. Stunning sunshine without being quite too hot - and yes I sunscreened.

First things first though - breakfast at the BnB. Oh it was glorious to have a proper breakfast for the first time in ages - I ate like a pig haha. Full English breakky plus cereal plus oj and tea. Give it to me all. Oh, and an apple for the road. I also had a nice little chat with the lady who runs the place - about languages actually, comparing Welsh and French in terms of trying to teach it in schools and have kids actually enjoy it rather than just having it forced down their throats.

After I checked out, I wandered down towards Freshwater East's beach... except I had no idea where I was going since I was wifi-less. I found it, after going down the hill of all hills. Problem was I had no idea if the bus actually went on this road (there are no bus stops - it's a hail and stop service) so I grudgingly had to climb back up the hill to catch the bus into Pembroke to grab some food before hiking around.

Of course I was then 45 min early for the bus (there are 4 busses a day, 2 each way around the circuit) so I put my raincoat on the ground and plopped myself down to read. I started my last book, "Unsaid". I can't remember how I heard about it but I'm full annoyed because it's about death, love and animals and I'm sitting there tearing up - not a sunny beach read haha.

About 5 min before the bus was due, this nice little old lady walked up. She was adorable ok - her name was Bertie and we're now bffs. She was teasing me about sitting on the ground (there were benches but they were in the sun... the ground was shadey) so of course it then came to light I was a tourist (my accent) which led into a talk about why I was visiting and such. She was all happy that I had chose to come back to Pembrokeshire lol. She teased it's because the people are all so nice, eh? But I'm like YES. Seriously, everyone is so nice here. It's amazing.

Her friend, Daphne, sorry 'Daf', then arrived and joined the convo. They started complaining about getting "decorators"... I still have no idea what they were talking about lol. But they made it clear that there is such thing as "Pembrokeshire time" and that it can involve a lot of waiting haha. The bus was a prime example of that - during the summer it's 4 trips/day like I said, but from Oct-Apr it comes only on Thurs and Sat and only 2-3 trips/day. Now that's unfortunate. So I got to hear about the pain of doing their shopping and making appts. Daf noted it's because hardly anyone uses the bus because it's such a remote area but then July hits. I laughed, then you're stuck with all the tourists like meeeeeee.

The bus arrived and off we went. I grabbed some food for lunch and then went back for the return bus. Guess who was also there - wonderful Bertie haha. She had just come into town to pick up a few things as well. We got to talking again - I told her I was off to St. Davids in a few days so she gave me her itinerary for me haha. Bless.

(When she got off the bus she turned back to me and wished me a great end to my trip. N'aww.)

I took the bus to Stackpole Quay - basically my plan today was to revisit my two fav spots from my last visit. So first stop: Barafundle Bay. So, not only is it a beautiful beach and cove, but one of my fav movies was filmed here and yes. I'm a sap.

I spent two hours just lazing about the beach. I ate my sandwhich, had my drink and then ate entirely too many cherries... like an entire bucket of cherries. They were so good, evidently. While eating I contented myself to people watching.

And by people watching I really mean watching people's dogs lol. So many dogs running about in the water. There was this ine King Charles Spaniel that was so damn excited to get to that water - it was making noises I don't think I've ever heard a dog make. Another good moment is when a kid ran up to a dog only to then realize it wasn't his hahaha. What are the odds - this other family had a dog that looked exactly like his, so of course his parents started laughing and were like "that's not your dog! He's right here!"

(It was that terrier that was on Stuff! if anyone remembers that from TVO kids with Kevin and Julie. Yes.)

ANYWAY. I of course also spent time reading my stupid sad book. It's really good so far though.

I headed back to Stackpole to catch the bus, but first needed an orange and caramel ice cream. Important things. I then met this couple visiting from Australia who were also waiting for the bus; more chatting about our journeys so far.

The second place I wanted to head back to was St. Govan's Head, but really just for their military range lol. It was the first place I properly wandered around in Wales that first time and it has my favorite sign that I have ever some across. I had to return.

First though, I visited the chapel which is built into the cliffside. You have to climb down all these steep steps but totally worth it to see. Last time the other door had been blocked, but this time you could continue down the cliff to get a better view.

I then wandered off towards Castlemec Range, an active MoD military range. I will forever love the fact there are signs warning you that touching any military debris could explode and kill you, but also there are signs about watching out for livestock. Since that fateful day of my visit in May 2011 all I can imagine are exploding cows.

Ahem.

The range was open today - no red flags or red alarm lights - so off I went towards St. Govan's Head and further east. It's easily still one of the most picturesque places I've ever been, the Pembrokeshire coast is fab. Just listening to the waves lap in is worth its weight in gold.

I had a 'seriously?' moment when I got to the tip of the peninsula... they had their red.flag up lol. I'm standing there like... uhm... how do you forget to lower it? At least the light wasn't also on.

I then continued along the path and got to see my glorious sign: "DANGER. Do not touch military debris. It may explode and kill you." I love it because A) why would touch military debris in the first place and B) why are we allowed here hahaha. I mean obv the paths are clearly marked but it all just makes me smile.

As I continued along I just kept laughing to myself.

(Sidenote: I love remote hikes because I literally talk out loud to myself because I can. I mean why not haha. There is no one around.)

Ok, so back to laughing. Looks like the range has got some good use since 2011 - back then all the signs were in pristine condition. Now? A bunch of them were shot to hell with bullet holes and other larger holes ripped thru them.

Well then.

I also had a good laugh when I came upon my asbestos toilet. The same damn portapotty is still closed with a big fat asbestos sticker on it. (I remember it because last time I was in desperate search lol. Thankfully not the case this year.)

And that was my coastline experience. I headed back towards the chapel where I found a rock to sit on and continie to read while I waited for the last bus.

(A cute old couple offered me a lift, but I told them it was ok the bus was coming any minute and I was headed another town further but thank you anyway 😊 People are so cute here. I love it.)

Thankfully the bus actually came not long after... I would have cried otherwise lol. I had 'Stan the Driver' again for the third time today - he does not suffer fools haha. So many of the roads are one-lane for two-way traffic that you have to know how to drive in tight spaces and how to reverse properly. If a car wasn't doing what Stan wanted he would chirp, and boy did he chirp a lot haha. He also got into a bit of a playful row with one passenger which had us all laughing.

(You know what else made me laugh? We scared a goose and instead of flying it waddled so quickly it was running towards its barn... and just you have not lived until you see a goose run.)

Train back to Cardiff was uneventful. For once I didn't fall asleep which must be a record because it was a 3hr journey. To be fair I was having an epic musical moment as I decided to listen to the entire original London cast "Les Miserables" soundtrack (Roger Allam, let me love you) and then the entire "Lion King" musical soundtrack as well.

Final note: cows look rediculous when they run. Rediculous but adorable. Our train scared a herd at one point, poor babies.

---

Comments

[Irene]

Pembrokeshire Bus
Ha ha! Pembrokeshire bus system sounds like OC Transpo....bus comes once every half hour, except after 4pm where it comes only once an hour up to 7pm and then not again until 6am, except when it's on a "holiday schedule" etc etc. And shame on you, chasing goosies and cows. Tsk tsk.