T-20

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Grey, steely, still, eerie day. Cloud cover near 100% but cloudbase is high so circuit around and including Cadair Idris completed.

A bit too busy for my liking on the way up and on the summit of Cadair Idris itself. Had to politely inform the couple who were about to follow me on my "extend the trek" circuit of the lake (Llyn) that they were going the wrong way if they were heading for the summit (which they were). Circuit of lake was wonderfully peaceful as nobody else was bothering with it. Very temped to escape up the gully track to the col from the far side of the llyn but decided it might cut the walk short so left it for another day. Completed circuit with a pause to wave back to the frantically waving couple I had redirected who were now on the ridge above and were obviously feeling grateful or something.

The climb up was good - I do like the approach to Cadair Idris. Lots of people struggling their way up perhaps a bit like I did when I first completed this ascent all those moons ago. There's a semi-serious drop into a col before the final ascent to the summit and my right knee began to hurt (the old pattelar tendonitis back again unfortunately) but manageable. Then the final ascent to the summit. Got a mild case of summit fever and forgot I was supposed to side-track myself to the wee summit of Cyfrwy. Summit was packed with people photographing their group achievement so I by-passed them and marched on to the ridge and towards the quieter summit of Mynydd Moel. Most people turn off down the hill before the summit so things get more pleasant here. Having said that, it was very, very cold up there today. A slight kit digression here - I very rarely bother to apply a mid-layer. I am testing out a small set of long-sleeve base layers (purchased for Nepal) on these treks but I always have a mid-layer in my pack too. Today, when I stopped for a lunch break on the summit of Mynydd Moel, I actually put it on. That and the warm Thinsulate(c) hat and the gloves. Pretty much everything. I guess it must've been cold.

The clouds were dropping lower and now stroking the summits of Idris as I marched down to the next col and back up to the humble summit of Gau Graig. The summit is nearly a nothing-ness in terms of hardship when one approaches from this side but it was the first part of the day where I was truly alone. In fact, the wind had gone, the clouds had stalled, and the light seemed to be invisible. There was complete tranquillity all around - it was as if the people, the weather, the planet had taken a break and it was just me now. Walking along the desolate peaty mush of the approach, I could think, I could breathe, there was nothing happening. It is so rare for nothing to be happening around one that it is starkly noticeable when it does happen. There wasn't even a single bird in the sky. Nothing anywhere. Stunningly sobering.

By the time I made my way back to the col, humans were around again and the crows were cackling. The clouds had hit the summits of Idris and there was a touch of playful moisture in the air. I ducked through the gap in the crags made by a wee stream and followed a crumbling drystone wall until I rejoined the path down and, sadly, the teenagers abusing it.

Stopped to sit by the mountain brook for a while. Drank some water to make me think I had stopped for a reason but really I just wanted to sit. Back at the car park, into the car, down to the coast and stillness had taken over here too. The steely sea merged with the steely clouds - no horizonal boundaries required today.

Beautiful day. Glasgwm tomorrow I hope. -4 tonight so maybe even some ice in the morning.

Having (temporarily) got cold at the second summit today, I've just checked the weather at Everest Base Camp. Tonight it's -53 degrees Celcius. Tomorrow afternoon it warms up to a clement -26C. Tomorrow night it drops back to -50C. Pause for thought.

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