Loch Ness, the Scottish Highlands, castles, history and a memorable birthday

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Last night we walked around a bit after dinner and headed to bed around 10 PM. Oddly it was as bright out as if it were 10 AM. I got up at 4 AM and noticed it was still bright out! Taking a gander at the map, I found the reason: we are considerably north and thus the Scots enjoy very long days. That’s great, but on the flip side, in winter, nights are also very long, so make hay while the sun shines. Speaking of the sun, today the clouds seemed behind us and the blue Scottish skies were overhead.

Our first stop was the Culloden Battlefield Memorial. This was famous in Scotland as the last battle between the Jacobites, rebellious Scottish soldiers fighting to restore King James to the British throne, versus the British. The war between the Jacobites and Brits lasted over 150 years and ended on this battlefield in one hour.

The Scots were decimated not because of poor battle tactics, but because of terrain. You see the Scots would attack in mass directly after the British would line up and fire a volley. As they reloaded, the Scots charged, catching the British off guard. Unfortunately, the Scot’s charge was through a bog, which slowed them down, allowing the British to wipe them out. The Scots could not recover and the civil war ended.

The location of Culloden Battlefield, in fact much of Scotland, has benefitted from the series, Outlander, which is filmed locally and shows a love story that crosses time. If you liked Game of Thrones, you will love Outlander.

Next stop, Loch Ness.

Loch Ness has more fresh water than all of the lakes in Scotland and England combined. Today the Loch was a bit angry as the wind came down the valley and stirred up the waters. The loch is 30 miles long, more than a mile wide and over 700 feet deep. The steep sides are evidence of the glacier formation of the Loch. We looked up and down for Nessie, then suddenly out of the corner of my eye, there she was! I quick threw my cell phone over to Cathy and captured a photo, just me and Nessie. She was there to celebrate my birthday. Such a rare sight to see and all for me. Thank you Nessie and farewell.

Today was to be a long day on the coach. There was much to see and many miles were traveled to see it. So for those who do not like sitting on a coach, getting on and off and riding more, maybe a tour is not for you. If you want to see the highlights, learn a great deal and get the lay of the land for a return trip, take the tour.

Our next photo stop was Eilean Donan Castle. Now, this castle has an amazing history, unfortunately, I know none of it as I was deep asleep during Tom’s narrative. I did, however, get the photo.

We drove a little more to our lunch stop located on the Isle of Skye, which means island of clouds. The weather did close in a bit so the area did live up to its name. Fortunately, it was only cloudy and not raining so we survived.

Now, the Isle of Skye is the entry point to the Outer Hebrides, a chain of islands that was once inhabited by the Danes. The area is a vacation paradise for fishing and water spots. Today it was a bit windy so no boats were on the loch.

I did manage to stay awake to hear the story of Saucy Mary. It seems this lass owned a castle on the narrows from the mainland to the Isle of Skye. Many boats had to pass through her view as they made their way laden with goods of trade on the way to Skye. She got a brilliant idea on how to profit from this.

You see she had a very heavy chain strung across the strait. When ships approached, she had her lads pull the chain tight, blocking the route to the Isle. Now Miss Mary demanded a toll from the captains or she would not let them pass. Although the captains complained, most paid the toll.

As a reward, as the sailors past by her balcony, Mary would lift her blouse to thank the sailors for paying her toll. I guess toll takers from today could learn a lesson. Wait, I have been on US toll roads - never mind.

We enjoyed a very local lunch stop where I dined on haddock and chips. Cathy went with a cheeseburger; she is doing the best she can to avoid foods to which she may be allergic.

Shortly after lunch we were back on the coach and headed to our cruise on the loch.

This was more of a ferry than a cruise. We arrived in plenty of time for our coach to drive onto the ferry. It was windy, a bit chilly, and slightly wet so, of course, I left the coach and headed up two decks to enjoy the view.

Well, the winds were blowing pretty hard, driving the water to 4-foot waves; adding to the experience was the cold and wet. Great fun! The ferry bounced a bit, the wind pushed you around, and standing required holding to the rail. But Alan and I chatted through the entire 45 minute trip and soon it was time to board the coach and continue toward our next stop.

This next stop was a twofer and a surprise. First we are in the land of Harry Potter. Many of the outdoor scenes were filmed in this area, including the iconic shot of the train crossing the bridge on the way to Hogwarts. Ok for the Harry Potter fans; for me, not so much. But I took the photo anyway.

Also here is a statue to Bonnie Prince Charley, commerating his landing at this spot and planning the rebellion of the Jacobites. Now the Prince did have a rightful claim to the throne and he wanted his due. Well, we all know how badly it turned out for the Scots.

Bonnie Prince got his name from the fact he enjoyed the French Court and all it had to offer. Charley dressed in, even in historic terms, flashy dress, enjoyed his drink, and the company of men and women. He powered his face, as was custom of the day and powdered his hair. Today, he would have been called a little more than Bonnie.

The surprise was our tour director Tom, purchased a fine single malt highland whiskey named Cardhu from Morayshire. I drank it neat with a drop of water. Since Tom poured several so all could try, there were many undrunk samples, so being the ever helpful, I had 6 to make sure none went to waste. One more treat: a milk chocolate Tonnocs Sweet Cake, delicious.

Our day is coming to an end as we are heading back to the hotel for dinner and free time, or for me, bed time.

Well the bed time thing did quite work out. We arrived a little back to the hotel so we were in need of hitting the dining room quick. Our dinner time was 7 PM and it was already 7:15 and a new tour was scheduled for dinner at 7:30 so there was no time to dawdle.

Cathy headed to dinner and I ran upstairs to drop off our travel gear and hit the head. I dropped everything on the bed hit the necessary room and went back down to a lovely dinner of Greek salad, ham in a mustard sauce (delectable) and an ice cream dessert.

During the meal Tom and Jeff dropped by the table and gave me a perfect gift box of 3 bottles of Glenlivet 12, 15 and 18 year old Scotch. Could not have been a better gift. We took some photos of Jeff and I for his daughter.

Our Canadian friends Sonya and Leonore bought me a slice of cake to which the staff added a candle and Ice cream. The entire dining room, including staff, sung Happy Birthday. Perfect.

I shared some of the Glenlivet with friends at the table, and Allan who also bought me another round. All this coupled with the scotch earlier from Tom’s treats where I lost count. All I know it was a birthday to remember.

After dinner, we were treated to music from a local accordion performer who played many local tunes and a rousing rendition of Happy Birthday. There was dancing singing, another scotch, and more fun had by all. The evening ended about 10 PM. It was still light outside so people were strolling and enjoying the good life here is beautiful Scotland.

Good night, and to all the Trafalgar family, thank you for a memorable 66th birthday.

POST SCRIPT

I was shutting down my computer while sitting in the front area when a man comes into the hotel. On his way to his room, he stops at the front desk and asks the bell captain, if anyone is staying in room 101A? Well, that's our room so I piped up, "Yes, sir I am. Why?"

He sauntered over and tells me the following story:

In 1936, Cary Grant and Mae West were filming here in Scotland and they stayed in this hotel. In fact Mr. Grant stayed in 101A and Ms. West was in 101 right next door. Mr. Grant and Ms.West began their affair in those rooms! Mr. Grant rented the room from 1936 until some time in 1950! I asked him how he knew that and he said he used to work here and he served them both often. How is that for amazing?

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Comments

[Annie]

Happy Birthday Phil??????
Traveling and celebrating with family and good friends! It doesn’t get any better than that! Love reading your blog and all the great stories that make it so special! Love from all of us on your Birthday and always?