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Published: August 17th 2007
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Must... stop... procrastinating...
So, on a day that seems like a really long time ago, I explored Edinburgh. I started by getting on a bus that took me to Prince Street, next to the gardens that are below Edinburgh Castle. The castle is built on an extinct volcano and has had human habitation on it for millennia. I hiked what felt like straight up and got there at 9 am, just as the castle gates were opening.
The first order of business was to take a guided tour, led by the lovely Fiona with the lovely Scottish burr. She led us through the multiple gates that form an impenetrable defense. Our walk took us past the St. Margaret Chapel, which was built in the early 12th century and is the oldest building in all of Edinburgh. Below the chapel is a pet cemetery and a gun battery that looks really impressive. However, Fiona told us that the guns were put in place on the orders of Queen Victoria, who loved the romanticism of Scotland and thought the castle should look more fortress-like. The guns are actually naval guns and aren't fired. The other two famous guns are Mons Meg,
and massive cannon, and the One O'Clock gun, which is fired every day (at 1:00!) so that ships in the Firth of Forth below can set their clocks. It's fired at 1:00 instead of the traditional noon because that way, the thrifty Scots only have to pay for one round a day.
Speaking of the Firth of Forth, the castle has beautiful views where you can see the Firth and across into the rest of Scotland. There are a few islands (one of which used to be the equivalent of Alcatrez) and a ferry that runs to St. Andrews, Scotland. It was originally established by Queen Margaret WAY back when to aid pilgrims in their worship. This is one of the major reasons she was made a saint.
Another highlight of the castle are the Scottish royal jewels, which, unfortunately, I was not allowed to take pictures of. Included in the collection is the Stone of Scone (pronounced "skoon"), also known as the Stone of Destiny, which was the rock that Scottish kings were crowned on. Edward I of England stole it in 1296 and had it installed in Westminster Abbey, where it was incorporated into the throne
Inscription over Edinburgh Castle entrance
Flanked by statues of Robert the Bruce and William Wallace, the inscription roughly translates as, "Hit us, and we'll hit you back harder." Don't mess with the Scottish. that English monarchs sat on to be crowned. Finally, in 1996, 800 years later, Elizabeth II let it go back to Scotland, with the understanding that it would be temporarily returned back to Westminster Abbey for every future coronation.
In the same building as the shiny stuff is the room where James VI of Scotland (also crowned James I of England) was born to Mary, Queen of Scots. The royals didn't spend that many nights in the castle - being on the top of a hill, it's really drafty. They preferred Holyrood Palace at the bottom of the Royal Mile, which I visited later the same day.
Nearby is the Scottish War memorial, which keeps records of all the Scots ever killed in war, the lists of which are still growing, thanks to Iraq and Afghanistan. It was built after WWI, and the books that contain the names from that war are in a box that sits indoors, but right on the exposed volcanic rock at the highest part of Castle Hill.
I also explored the tunnels below the rock - which they have set up to show how prisoners lived there. They exhibit things made by
The ubiquitous British phone booths... within Edinburgh Castle walls
You think Mary, Queen of Scots, used them to call down to Holyrood Palace? the prisoners and doors carved with prisoner graffiti - including several ships and a primitive version an early design of the American flag.
After a quick lunch, I headed out of the castle. Edinburgh Castle sits at the top of the Royal Mile, which runs all the way downhill to Holyrood Palace about a mile away. The whole thing is lined with historic sights, gift shops, tourist traps, pubs, cafes, whiskey shops, and people in full kilt playing the bagpipes for money. I ended up in a factory/museum/tourist attraction/shop almost immediately - where they weave the fabric to make tartan plaids. Watching the machines was fun, and most of the merchandise was absolutely beautiful. I skipped the part where I could get my picture made in full Highland dress. 😊
I did some shopping and got a few souvenirs and presents, then headed past the statue of Greyfriar's Bobby (which I hadn't heard of, but he was a dog who sat on his owner's grave for 14 years after the owner died - and then Disney made a movie about him). My immediate goal was the Museum of Scotland, which was the most random collection of stuff under
St. Margaret
This stained glass window is in St. Margaret's chapel, which is the oldest building in Edinburgh, dating from the early 12th century. one roof. I made a beeline for the Lewis chessmen, which were found on the Isle of Lewis in 1831. They are made of walrus tusk and are thought to have been carved in Norway in the 12th century. (The 12th century is our theme today!) There are dozens of pieces, split among various museums, including the British Museum. Anyway, I just love the way they look. I've included a picture of them, but for better closeups of them, go to the
wikipedia entry. And if you know you've never heard of them yet still think they look familiar? Try the first Harry Potter movie. The giants wizards' chess game at the end is fought against Lewis chess pieces. (And no, I swear I'm not Harry Potter obsessed, multiple blog entries to the contrary.)
There were a couple other highlights for me in the Museum of Scotland for me. One was Dolly, the first ever cloned sheep. Yep, she's in the museum. Stuffed. And rotating in a glass box. I also liked the Bonnie Prince Charlie artifacts, which include bits of tartan worn by him and his silverware. (More about Bonnie Prince Charlie in the blog for the next day.
Cannon pointing over the city
Queen Victoria wanted the castle to look more fortress-like, so she had these guns installed... unfortunately, they're naval guns and belong on a ship. But might impressive looking! Much more.) I also had a lovely time making fishy faces at the curious goldfish in the atrium. It was so calming to take a minute out and get down to eye level and watch them. I've included a video at the beginning of this blog so that you can see for yourself. They stick their faces out of the water. 😊
My next stop was St. Giles' Cathedral on the Royal Mile. It's been around for roughly 900 years and is the center of Scottish Presbyterianism. It was here that John Knox, the leader of the Scottish Calvinish reformation, preached, and there is a statue of him inside. He's also buried out back... under a parking space. Tucked in the back is the Thistle Chapel, which is where The Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle is awarded. It's tiny and carved to within an inch of its life.
And now I'm tired of writing, but nearly as tired as I was at this point in my explorations of Edinburgh. But there are miles to go before I sleep, so I'll have to finish them in the next entry.
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