St Kilda (work party 3) June 2006 Day 16

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Day 16
It was all hands to the pumps after breakfast to make sure everything was in order for the new work-party.With the rubbish emptied and bags packed we had our last morning coffee,then it was down to the jetty to await the Orca, brief hellos to the incommers and farewells to our new friends who remained on the island, it was out to the boat which had come to return us to "civilisation".
It was a dull and heavy day with low cloud hanging over the island,Angus the skipper explained that our route from Hirta would take us under the cliffs of Osiaval and Connacher before heading over to Boreray.There was a gentle swell as we left village bay but the Orca took it in her stride,the cliffs were impressive, disappearing up into the mist that shrouded the isle.
Angus opened the throttle of the Orca and we were on our way to Boreray. As we approached we had to pass Stac Li on our left, a huge chunk of rock, thrusting itself out of the sea,its face criss-crossed with white lines,which on closer inspection were found to be Gannets and their guano.Here Angus slowed the boat down and Terry launched his "mailboat",alas never to be seen again (as far as I know).With the boat's engine now just ticking over we were guided along the face of the cliffs of Boreray,what started as just a few Gannets, rapidly became thousand upon thousand, taking to the sky as the boat approached their roosts.There was an erie silence, both on the Orca, as we took in this truely awesome sight and overhead, as the multitude of birds gliding with no sound, just the chug-chug of the engine was to be heard.Even as the Bonxies chased the Gannets to make them disgorge their catch or driving them into the sea to make a kill, I don't recall any calls of desperation.
After drifting by Boreray and its Stacs it was hard to imagine that the St Kildans actually rowed over from Hirta in an open boat, then they had to find a landing place on these inhospitable rocks,before they could hunt the birds or tend the sheep...a tough life.
All too soon we were out in the open sea once more and it was full speed ahead for Leverburgh.Seats were taken and we began to nod off,catching up with sleep from the late nights and reflecting on our island encounter.Back in Leverburgh we were met with transport that took us to a hostel in Drinishider, afterwhich we went into Tarbert for a drink and an evening meal.A wonderful day to end our stay on St Kilda, the spectacular journey back to Harris that will live in the memory for ever,was probably made more enchanting by the shrouds of mist that surrounded the isles focusing the mind to the dramatic scenes of nature in the raw.

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