Scotland - Inverness and Loch Ness


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Published: August 9th 2021
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Me, Loch NessMe, Loch NessMe, Loch Ness

Fort Augustus
Dear All

Greetings from Loch Ness! Yay!! This is probably Scotland’s most famous lake, and also one of the most famous lakes in the world. This is actually my second time here, as it was also in Inverness a couple of days ago. I believe I mentioned in my first blog entry for this trip, that 20 years ago, I made one of my first backpacking trips to this part of the world for three nights, to get a feel for this business of travelling – and I liked it so much, I’ve pretty much spent the rest of my life doing it! These last few days have very much brought back memories for me, some very good memories of my first taste of travelling freedom, and this beautiful part of the world. I loved Inverness and Loch Ness when I first visited them, and I still do now!

I last wrote from a rather hectic caravan park in Thurso, and although I absolutely loved Thurso and around, and the caravan itself, its setting, and its very friendly owner were all wonderful, I was happy to be leaving. The hectic place was not helped by the fact that one of my caravan neighbours was a loud South African family, who left their door open all the time, from 6.30 in the morning until well after I’d gone to bed. I could hear the three kids running around both inside and outside their caravan, the conversations of the father on his mobile phone outside his caravan, his smoking times, and an argument between the parents (I must admit though, that was actually quite interesting…). Fortunately I still slept well at night, they were quiet between the hours of 10pm and 7am, but outside of those times they were loud and completely inconsiderate of anyone around them - I did not find the experience very nice, particularly as I enjoy peace in my lodgings and surroundings. I was glad to be leaving the noise, and soooooo grateful to arrive at my next accommodation on the outskirts of Inverness – a calm, quiet, very tranquil place, with similarly calm and quiet owners, and no need for earplugs at night – it was a welcome relief I must admit.

So I spent two nights in Inverness, in peaceful tranquil bliss. My first day I arrived in my lodgings around 6pm, after enjoying
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Culloden Battlefield
again the spectacular four-hour train journey back from Thurso. Because it was a bit late in the day, I only had time to head to the nearest Co-Op and back for supplies – this place has a lovely little cupboard, with a fridge, microwave, kettle and toaster – wonderful!

My full day in Inverness I really packed a lot in, and I enjoyed it very much. I caught a bus not far from my accommodation which took me all the way through the city of Inverness, and six miles out the other side, onto the sombre and thought-provoking Culloden Battlefield. With its fascinating Visitor Centre and battlefield itself, I ended up spending four hours there, much longer than I’d anticipated. I started out with the Visitor Centre, to learn much more about the background to the second Jacobite uprising of 1745, the one led by the Young Pretender, Prince Charles Edward Stuart, better known as Bonnie Prince Charlie. I found the Visitor Centre very refreshing, as although many who speak about the battle do so with much resentment towards the English, I felt the Visitor Centre gave very balanced information from both sides of the story. I didn’t realise how complicated the events leading up to the infamous battle were. As mentioned in a previous blog, when Queen Anne died without a successor, and King George I of Hanover, Germany, took the British throne, people known as the Jacobites clubbed together, both in Scotland and in England, to call for the descendants of Stuart King James II to restore the Stuart line to the throne. Bonnie Prince Charlie was James II’s grandson, and many rallied around him to lead them in their plight, after his father’s attempts in 1715 failed. It seems the Hanoverian government were taken by surprise by the advances of the Jacobites, who quickly took control of Edinburgh and marched south through Manchester and as far as Derby. Apparently, the people, businesses and banks of London were very worried by the fact that the Jacobite army were only four days’ march away from the doorsteps of London. The government were busy with various skirmishes around the world and in Europe, with their arch-enemy the French. The French saw the advantage of allying with the Jacobite cause, and sent much weaponry and monetary funds to aid them. This could be seen as the Scots and the French
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Viewed from my accommodation
teaming together to gang up on the English, and it is understandable to my mind that the government sought to defeat the Jacobite threat. It was also understandable to my mind to see it from the Jacobite perspective, to continue with the Stuart royal line, rather than begin the German House of Hanover royal line, as this would seem to continue the peace between both England and Scotland. I can see both perspectives, and the Visitor Centre presented this well.

After quite a big build-up, the two opposing forces, the Hanoverian redcoats and the Jacobites, including both Scotsmen and Englishmen, as well as Irish and French soldiers, met at Culloden Moor on the fateful morning of 16th April 1746. The Jacobites had just spent the previous night in an ill-organised march intending to surprise the redcoats who had just finished celebrating their leader’s birthday, the Duke of Cumberland. However, the march proceeded through thick forests and heavy rainfall, and the army became separated and disordered. They marched back again to their original position by the following morning, tired and exhausted. Some of the Jacobite leaders wanted to return their forces to Inverness to recuperate, but apparently Bonnie Prince Charlie was so intent on meeting with the Hanoverians, having won the previous two battles with them, that they entered into conflict despite their fatigue. It was a poor decision it seems, and the redcoats who met them were far superior in their readiness, military supplies, and battle commands. The Battle of Culloden only lasted 68 minutes, and victory was swift for the redcoats – losses were 300 for the redcoats, compared with 1200 for the Jacobites. Bonnie Prince Charlie later fled to the Isle of Skye disguised as a maid called Betty Burke, an event which is immortalised in the song “Skye Boat Song”, before seeing out the rest of his days in France and Italy.

After Culloden, the Duke of Cumberland was later nicknamed the “Butcher” for his subsequent treatment of the Jacobites in routing out their threat completely in the Highlands. Whilst captured Irish and French soldiers were treated as prisoners of war, Jacobite Scots and Englishmen were considered traitors and were killed and executed. I can understand the reasoning for this, as I believe the Duke saw the Jacobites as a minor issue to be dealt with swiftly and completely, so that greater power struggles could be attended to in mainland Europe and the rest of the world. But the inhumanity of the brutal treatment of the Jacobites reverberates in history here, and many clan leaders to this day feel the tragedy of their forefathers lost. Many come to the battlefield to remember their ancestors, and the field has numerous memorials to the various clansfolk who were killed there. The Battle of Culloden is remembered as the last pitched battle ever fought on British soil, and its aftermath changed the whole structure of Scotland. No longer was the country to be ruled by various clan leaders, sometimes at peace, sometimes at war with each other – power and control became much more centralised, and land clearances of the clansfolk completely changed the landscape of Scotland. Many dispossessed Scotsfolk travelled to America to escape the hardship, others stayed behind and benefited from the restructuring. The Visitor Centre is a remarkable place, and I learnt much about this important moment in the history of my country.

One of the key features of the Centre is a 360 degree video room, which places you right in the heart of the battle, as redcoat and Jacobite reenactors play out the conflict all around you, with quite graphic scenes – it is an emotional experience. Following this, I headed out onto the battlefield itself, evocative to walk around, and consider the horrors that this now-peaceful place once experienced.

As I left Culloden, I couldn’t quite believe the time, seeing that I had spent four hours there! It is certainly a place to spend time in. I headed off to my next two destinations in the area. Firstly, a visit to the Clava Cairns, made famous apparently by the TV series “Outlander” which I thought might interest me, but I’m not too sure now, particularly as it seems to be more of a love story than a historical drama – I’m willing to have my mind changed on that one. The Clava Cairns were also very interesting. These are three large Bronze Age burial chambers built 4000 years ago, surrounded by stone circles, and set in the position so that the setting Winter solstice sun would light up the inner chambers of two of the circles through a narrow passageway leading inwards. The third circle did not have this passageway, just a hollow centre with no entrance. The site was
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Government Propaganda, showing the Duke of Cumberland as a hero and Bonnie Prince Charlie as a coward
also filled with large trees and beautiful green undergrowth, making for rather an ethereal atmosphere.

After having lunch sat on one of the many sheltered stones under the tree canopy, the heavens having once again opened on this rather rainy day, I headed off for my final destination in the area. This was a nearby viewpoint with excellent views towards the Culloden, or Nairn, Viaduct, a magnificent structure of 29 arches carrying the Highland Main Line railway linking Inverness with Aviemore and beyond over the wide valley of the River Nairn 40 metres below. At 549 metres in length, it is the longest masonry viaduct in Scotland, and was a Victorian wonder when it was completed in 1898, and still is today. It was a beauty to behold.

From here, I headed back to the Culloden Battlefield to take my bus back to Inverness at 4.50pm, a bit later than I had planned. Still, I was able to do what I had planned when I returned to the city, which was a walk through the city centre past Inverness Castle and St Andrew’s Cathedral, southwards up the River Ness to the beautiful Ness Islands, and their magnificent collection of huge Scots pine trees, along to the Caledonian canal a few hundred metres to the west, and northwards again along this towards the Inverness suburb of Scorguie, where my accommodation is. It had been a wonderful day, evocative and emotional, sobering and educational. I was also so pleased to be in the city of Inverness once again, my favourite city so far in Scotland I think. It is such a cute little city of only 47,000 people, but it is so perfectly formed and situated, and also of great regional importance, considered the “Capital of the Highlands”. The houses and buildings are grand and grey, suiting the grand and grey climate and landscape perfectly. It sits on the mouth of the River Ness as it enters the spectacular Moray Firth, along with the Caledonian Canal, both carrying the dark, black waters from Loch Ness to the sea. And it is surrounded by forested and mist-clad hills and mountains. It is just gorgeous to my mind.

Nevertheless, my time there was short, and on the Sunday, I took a bus along the whole of the north shore of the hugely famous Loch Ness, to the lake’s southern end at Fort Augustus, for two further nights in this part of Scotland. On the journey, I passed the Loch Ness Youth Hostel, where I spent my night on the lake 20 years ago, and the brief glimpse of the place out of the bus window brought back some lovely memories. I arrived in Fort Augustus, and headed for my more upmarket lodgings, a step-up from youth hostels – the lovely Sonas Bed and Breakfast. Fort Augustus was a bit like Aviemore when I tried to book my accommodation here a couple of months ago – it was pretty much fully booked, and what was left was out of my price range. I found this place on Google Maps, and did the old-fashioned method of phoning them up and booking over the phone. And what a delight the place is – my favourite type of accommodation I think. It is a lovely old-fashioned BnB, run by a lovely mature lady, with tartan carpets, a reading room with books and magazines, and a cooked breakfast each morning. I am also the only guest staying here, so along with my place in Inverness, I have enjoyed two more peaceful nights here on Loch Ness.
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Culloden Battlefield


After settling in to my room, I headed into the village of Fort Augustus. This is a small place, with only 646 inhabitants, but it is awash with tourists, mainly of the day-tripping variety, seemingly stopping here for a short while on their way to other places. It became an important place during the mid-18th century Jacobite uprising, as General Wade built a fort in the area, at the junction of four connecting military roads, and was named after the Duke of Cumberland, who won the Battle of Culloden for the redcoats. The Duke of Cumberland’s actual name was Prince William Augustus, third and youngest son of King George II. Today it is a centre for tourism on Loch Ness, and is also known for its series of five canal locks linking the Caledonian Canal with the lake. In fact, just as I arrived at the locks, they were about to start the complex system of getting four boats up and out of Loch Ness, to continue southwards along the canal.

The Caledonian Canal is a wonder of early 19th century engineering, when Scottish engineer Thomas Telford realised the idea that many had had for a while, of
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Culloden Battlefield
linking the North Sea with the Atlantic Ocean for boats, without the need to go around the northern tip of Britain and braving the turbulent waters of the Pentland Firth. The whole area between Inverness and Fort William is a great long, natural chasm of a valley called the Great Glen, separating the northern tip of Britain which was apparently once connected to North America, with the rest of the island, once connected to Europe. The great rift between the Moray Firth and Loch Linnhe contains the three glacier-carved lakes of Loch Ness, Loch Oich and Loch Lochy, whose 40 miles in total length was added to by another 20 miles of man-made canal, to create a navigable route from north-east to south-west. It is quite impressive. At Fort Augustus, boats are raised 13 metres over a series of five locks. As I observed the start of this feat in action, it took 20 minutes for the boats to pass through just the first lock, so I imagine the whole section would take 1 hour and 40 minutes to get through. The locksmen working there certainly seemed busy!

After enjoying the first part of the lock spectacle, I headed through the highly exclusive £500 a night Highland Club, as a cricket match was going on, through two sheep-filled fields, and onto a lovely path which would take me a mile out of the village to a dramatic and solitary viewpoint over Loch Ness. Ah, this was just what I was looking for, and I enjoyed a picnic late-lunch taking in the amazing scenery below me – the vast, dark and mysterious waters of Loch Ness.

I loved this lake the first time I saw it, and I still love it now. Aside from the mysteries of what the waters may contain, it is also simply a very beautiful lake. The waters are black, the sides on both edges of it rise steeply up to 400 metres above the water, and it is so big, it just takes one’s breath away. At 23 miles long, with an average width of a mile and average depth of 132 metres, with its deepest point being 230 metres, it apparently contains more water than all the lakes of England and Wales put together! The blackness of the water is caused by peaty sediment being washed into it from its incoming rivers and
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Culloden Battlefield
streams, and all these statistics combine to suggest that there may be many creatures lurking below which may lay claim to providing the basis for monster stories over the centuries.

Before the 1933 media frenzy which has drawn the world’s attention ever since to the potential existence of a prehistoric beast in the waters of the lake, the creature has also existed in Scottish folklore for centuries. Even Saint Columba, as far back as 565 AD, reported having witnessed the burial of a man who was said by the local Pict tribe to have been attacked and killed by a “water beast”. St Columba subsequently sent one of his followers to swim across the lake, and out came the monster, but when St Columba made the sign of the cross and said “Go no further”, the creature apparently stopped as if it had been “pulled back with ropes”, and fled. I find this story incredible!

Today, many believe that the lake contains very large water creatures, such as giant catfish, eel or lamprey, which could grow to considerable lengths, and could be mistaken for a monster. Apparently the local Loch Ness Cruises enterprise does regular sonar readings of
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Culloden Battlefield
the lake on its tourist outings, and has detected living beings up to ten metres long below the surface – wow!

In fact, on the morning of my full day in Fort Augustus, I took a RIB boat cruise with this company, for a highly enjoyable 90 minute speedy journey to Urquhart Castle and back. On the way, the guide showed us the sonar reading which showed such a creature below the surface. I found it quite believable that something strange lives down there, and I certainly wouldn’t want to go swimming on the water!

The RIB journey was amazing! It went at 30 mph across the water, as far as Drumnadrochit, two thirds of the way up the lake. I visited this highly-touristy village 20 years ago, and its attached Urquhart Castle, so rather than doing this again, I thought I’d book this speedboat tour to see it from a different angle, from the lake. It really is a stunningly sited castle, perched on a rock promontory overlooking the mighty Loch Ness. It is apparently one of three castles, along with Stirling and Edinburgh, which were considered the keys to Scotland – if an invading force were
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Culloden Battlefield
to take any of these castles, they would have had a good chance of taking Scotland. The dramatic 13th century castle is today in ruins, and was apparently blown up in 1692 by those opposing the Jacobite cause, to avoid its potential occupation by Jacobite forces. It still stands proudly on its spot today, and is often pictured in images of Loch Ness.

After returning to Fort Augustus, again at 30 mph over the lake, I went back to my BnB for a short rest, and actually a nap, as the great blasts of wind and occasional rain of the RIB journey had really tired me out! It was a lovely nap, to prepare myself for a walk I was planning in the afternoon.

The walk was enjoyable, although a bit disappointing and rather sad as well. I had planned to take an Old Military Road out of Fort Augustus, through the nearby Inchnacardoch Forest, and along a high ridge, hoping for some nice views over Fort Augustus and Loch Ness below. I really liked walking the Old Military Road part, I’ve enjoyed exploring these paths during my time in the Highlands, imagining the times when they connected
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Culloden Battlefield
military garrisons all across the country. I was very saddened, though, to see that a great swathe of the Inchnacardoch Forest that I walked through had recently been felled by logging activities. Now I do understand that we need wood, and wood comes from forests, and forests have to be cut down in order to get wood. But the amount of destruction and devastation that I walked through was so sad to see, and I really did feel the loss of the trees as I walked through it. Trees that had stood there for years and years, and the destruction of wildlife habitats, and I’m sure the death of many animals as well, weighed heavy on my mind, and I sensed a great difference between the natural energy of the forest and the lack of it there. There was a single timber-related vehicle in the area piling up logs together, making the occasional crashing noise, but aside from that there was silence. It was spooky. Re-entering the forested area again, the sounds of birds and babbling brooks filled my ears once more, and it felt more normal again. It was sad to see this I thought.

My walk then
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Culloden
took me along a ridge and to a viewpoint marked on my map that I was looking forward to, but when I got there it had become overgrown with ferns and trees, and you couldn’t see anything – no Fort Augustus or Loch Ness below. With the trees there, it must have been years since this was actually a viewpoint, but the maps still show it. Ah well, the walk overall was enjoyable, and not having met a single other walker for its three hours, it was a lovely chance to be alone and away from the tourist hubbub of Fort Augustus.

Fortunately my BnB is just outside the village, so it is also very peaceful here. After buying a cold drink from the local shop, I returned back to Sonas for a wonderful hot shower and some downtime for the rest of my time here in Fort Augustus.

Tomorrow I head further south along the Great Glen, as I take another bus onto Fort William for three nights. I plan to write up my next blog entry from there, in a few days’ time.

So, until then, all the best for now, and thanks again for
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Culloden
reading 😊

Alex


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Clava Cairns

Culloden


13th August 2021

Travel memories and more
Once bitten by the travel bug there is not a cure. ... fortunately. Loving Loch Ness now and then- great memories. You've had a masters level history course while here. I'm glad you've enjoyed the places you stayed and got some peace.
13th August 2021

Travel Memories
Indeed, I could say Loch Ness is where it all began for me. They say travel is a great educator - I would agree with that. I have appreciated the peaceful places.
13th August 2021
Ness Islands

Beautiful
Thanks for taking us along.
13th August 2021
Ness Islands

Thank you
Aw, thanks for reading Merry ?
18th August 2021

Very Interesting History
Very interesting history at Culloden, Alex. It must be quite moving to visit the battlefield and see the memorial clan cairns. Scotland looks beautiful - definitely want to visit one day!
19th August 2021

History
Thanks Lori. Yes, I agree, Scotland has some very interesting history, which I had not known much about before my trip. It was certainly moving to be at the Culloden Battlefield. I do recommend a trip to Scotland if you're interested in visiting. Thank you for reading my blog ?
29th August 2021
Female Grouses

Grouses
I think these are female grouses
30th August 2021
Female Grouses

Grouses
Oh fantastic, thanks Alan ? I'm not very good at naming birds!
29th August 2021

Scenery
What beautiful scenery and I feel your photos have captured and reflected this well
30th August 2021

Scenery
Thanks so much Alan, I really appreciate your encouraging comment ?
30th October 2021
Clava Cairns

I visited Inverness in the 90-ies
When I studied at the university in the 90-ies a friend and I went to Scotland for a few days. We then visited Inverness just because we wanted to see Loch Ness. As I've always known, you've now shown that there is more to see in that region than the famous lake. CC look interesting. /Ake
30th October 2021
Clava Cairns

Inverness
Ah, indeed, Inverness and Loch Ness are on many itineraries to Scotland. They are super attractions, but indeed, there is much more to see when you scratch beneath the tourist surface.
30th October 2021
Culloden, or Nairn, Viaduct

I love the masonry bridges, aqueducts and viaducts
I absolutely love the British masonry bridges, aqueducts and viaducts. One of the finest of them all, the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, I have actually steered a boat across. /Ake
30th October 2021
Culloden, or Nairn, Viaduct

Aqueducts
Wow, that doesn't happen every day! I imagine steering a boat across an aqueduct is no easy task. Pronouncing its name seems even more difficult!!

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