Ireland 2019 Day 3

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Up at 6:45. Another terrific buffet breakfast at the hotel. The hotel breakfasts are mostly in line with similar offerings around the world, but there are a few different things. "Black and white pudding" consists of hard salty cakes, some black, some white; not a favourite. "Scuffins" are a cross between scones and muffins, and they are delicious. The bread is fabulous. At the porridge station proudly stands a bottle of Bushmill's for garnishing your cereal. How civilized.

We board the coach for a city tour of Belfast and meet our new driver, David. (Darius was assigned to another tour.) Our first stop is Belfast City Hall. This turns out to be the grandest, most opulent city hall I have ever seen. Built in 1906 to celebrate the city's new prosperity stemming from the industrial revolution, the building features white Portland stone, Italian marble, and fantastic stained-glass windows everywhere. The grand staircase of carved marble is most impressive.

The municipal structure common in Northern Ireland is interesting. City councillors are elected in the usual fashion. Every year they elect one of their number to serve as mayor for one year. This position is mostly ceremonial. The incumbent is expected to put aside party politics and personal convictions in favour of representing the city. The one-year term up, the person reverts to being a councillor and another mayor is appointed by council.

Our guide, Chris, takes us from room to room. Portraits of past mayor fill the walls of the adjoining corridors. Many of these portraits have subtle messages cunningly incorporated into them. For instance, one mayor who was an expert on the Titanic disaster has a folded kerchief in his breast pocket that looks like an iceberg.

We visit several rooms: the room where the trappings of power are stored (mace, gowns, chain of office); council chambers, where we get to pretend to be a councillor or the mayor; and the ball room, which is an enormous room with a stage for concerts. The ball room and other facilities are available to the general public for free for appropriate occasions.

Belfast City Hall was damaged extensively in World War II and by IRA bombs, but it has now been restored to its full glory. Quite the building.

Violet and I then embark with two other couples on a pre-planned tour in a "black cab" focusing on "the troubles." Our driver, Jake, takes us through the unionist (protestant) areas centred around Shankill Road, and the republican (catholic) areas, centred around nearby Falls Road. Particularly in the former areas, Jake is very closed-mouth and intimates that conversations may be monitored, although he doesn't explain how. He explains to us the meaning and history behind the myriad murals that decorate the walls. The tales he eventually tells are chilling and will not be repeated here. Suffice it to say that, despite being aware of this sordid period of Irish history, we had no idea how deep the hatred and discrimination flowed and how sensitive the topics remain. We hope that the tempered optimism that Tony expressed earlier will prove to be correct. Unfortunately, both men agree that Brexit, whether it occurs with an agreement with the EU or without, risks opening half-healed wounds and stirring up buried hatreds.

Jake finishes up the tour by showing us a block where anyone with a point of view or beef to put forward can apply to put up a poster for an assigned time. The topics cover issues from all over the world; Ireland or course, but also the Middle East, Sudan, Syria, China and more. So many problems in the world.

We rejoin our group at the "Titanic Experience," a relatively new museum covering every aspect of the birth, life and death of the largest moving object built by man. (Well, unless some of those new cruise ships have broken that record.) Belfast, with a centuries-old tradition of ship-building, was where the Titanic was built and launched. A must-see experience well worth the time.

Back to the hotel and a chance for me to try to catch up with the accused blog. For supper, we head across the street to Robinson's Pub and Bistro, recommended by Tony. We order potato-leek soup, lamb bangers with mash, and steak Guinness pie with mushy vegetables. Really good and relatively good prices. The highlight for me is a glass of 10-year-old Bushmill's single malt. Sweet and peppery with a long, lingering honey finish. Robinson's sits right next to Belfast's famous Crown Saloon, so we pop in there to check it out. It's dark, crowded and noisy with numerous divided rooms or "snugs". The exterior is decorated with ceramic tiles. OMG, time for bed.

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Photos

Belfast City Hall
Belfast, Northern Ireland

Looking down the grand staircase
Belfast City Hall, Belfast, Northern Ireland

Stained-glass window
Belfast City Hall, Belfast, Northern Ireland

Mayor for a day!
Belfast City Hall, Belfast, Northern Ireland

Murals on Shandhill Rd.
Belfast, Northern Ireland

Gates between unionist and republican areas
Belfast, Northern Ireland

Murals on various political issues
Belfast, Northern Ireland

Entrance to Titanic Experience
Belfast, Northern Ireland