WE ARE OFF AGAIN - OUR TRAVEL MEMORIES SO FAR........

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Most of our subscribers are aware that we left the UK in 2010 after retiring to travel ‘around the world’ for a year! Well we are still living 'out of suitcases' and enjoying a variety of adventures in an ‘ever expanding’ number of countries. We have just had a delightful few weeks in the UK where the weather just amazed us with ‘wall to wall’ sunshine! We were able to visit some of our family and friends around the country and a big thank you once again to those of you who gave us a bed and to Bob and Elaine who gave us a house......





It was shame that we did not get to meet our new grandniece, Madeline Mason who was born just before we flew but wonderful to have both our daughters (Sharon & Kerry) and granddaughter (Maisie) together for the first time in two years and we will treasure this memory until the next time we are all in the same country at the same time....... we also go to see Cliff and it was a shame that Geoff could not be there as well - one day we will all be together again I am sure.........We also got to see our brothers and sisters, Malcolm, Frances, Gillian and Sue which was also a first for a while. For those of you we missed, hopefully we will be able to catch up some time next year.





Before leaving the country for Dubai to stay with the family we spent a relaxing few weeks in Brixham, Devon (see photos) where again the weather was great and we spent many days walking along the coastal paths and even got to see dolphins and seals close to shore. We travelled around the area by boat, ferry, bus and even a local steam train and are still keen to explore the possibility of living there when we do settle down. The UK, particularly with the sun shining is such a beautiful country and will always be home but our feet are still itching to see more before we put down a few roots in one place..........





So the Silvernomads are on the road again and our next adventure takes us into Africa visiting, South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Malawi and Mozambique. We fly from Dubai into Cape Town on Sunday 15 September and we hope that you continue to enjoy our blogs over the next few months.





We often get asked what is our ‘favourite’ country but we cannot choose - it’s rather about our experiences in those countries that come to mind. If you are interested we have named a few of our most memorable highlights in the following paragraphs otherwise skip to final paragraph:



In Auckland, New Zealand we walked up ‘One Tree Hill’ and had magnificent views over the city and towards the islands of Rangitoto and Waiheke and on the latter we were later to sample some delightful local wines - New Zealand white wine is definitely the best... Walking to the summit of Mount Maunganui and building our own thermal pool at Hot Water Beach was bizarre. The thermal plateau which covers most of the central region of North Island with volcanoes, lava plateaus, and crater lakes was like stepping out on to Mars. The best highlight here though was trekking the Tongarrio Alpine Crossing which took us seven hours and was quite daunting in parts as it passed over spectacular volcanic terrain, wading through drifted snow fields and up sheer scree slopes......... To get to the end was such an achievement and I was so glad that the base camp guide persuaded me to tackle the walk with Paul. The Interislander Strait ferry from Wellington delivered us to the scenic sister island after a rough crossing.





On the South Island we undertook several walks around Mount Cook where we saw lakes filled with massive ice platforms and after crossing over two precarious swing bridges, swaying in the strong wind, we were rewarded with our first glimpse of the Tasman Glacier. Trekking right up to both Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers on the South Island was awesome and later taking a helicopter flight stopping for a short time to walk on the glacier itself. Not forgetting the wonderful peace and serenity as we sailed down both Milford and Doubtful Sounds and awaking on the latter to the sound of silence as our boat bobbed beneath the gorge walls. Later with David and Janine we balanced off the boat and collected fresh water as it dripped down the gorge into the boat from above. A helicopter ride over the gorges skimming the tops of huge waterfalls before landing and walking on a frozen lake isolated in the middle of a deep ravine left us breathless. We met Natalie and Allan on a walk by the Pelorus River in the Abel Tasman National Park and several weeks later we visited them in the beautiful city of Christchurch - such friendly locals. Such a beautiful city and it was devastating to be there when one of the earthquakes shook the city and a couple of months later our delightful B&B, where Glenda our host had kept us well fed over the Christmas period was destroyed - luckily all her family came through. We saw our very first sperm whale in Kaikoura and also were surrounded by a pod of about 500 dolphins who proceeded to do a ‘starburst’ across the waves in very rough seas - the crew said we were lucky to see this as it was rare and I even managed to get it on film, we were lucky. Paul will always remember reeling in a giant wild salmon off a deserted beach that had missed the river entrance and I will remember our encounters with the blue, yellow-eyed and fiordland crested penguins encountered all around the coastline, as well as a variety of bird life although we did not spot the illusive Kiwi.







We will never forget our first glimpse of the iconic Bridge and Opera House as we flew into New South Wales in Australia and celebrating New Year in Sydney amid thousands of other revellers. The mist rising over the Blue Mountains and the sun setting over Uluru (Ayers Rock), the stunning Olgas as well as the mighty Kings Canyon in the heart of Australia was perfect. We will also never get our first glimpse of the elusive Cassowary - such a bizarre creature like something out of the dinosaur age...........





Our adventure on the Gibb River Road in the Northern Territories was unforgettable, collecting fire wood and camping in the vast Outback and watching the sun go down over the Bungle Bungles in the Kimberleys with our driver Ron and Len and Gaye from Sydney and no one else for miles will always stay with us. The vast wilderness, massive gorges, waterholes and mountain ranges scattered throughout the area with wonderful vistas as far as the eye could see changing colours throughout the day. The vast flowing rivers we had to cross - luckily our transport made it most of the way although we did breakdown near the end of this journey and needed a little help to get it back on the rough road.........On our return to Australia the following year we stayed with Len and Gaye in Sydney and they took us on a scenic tour of New South Wales visiting some wonderful countryside close to the city - a big thank you to them. We had some refreshing swims in many freshwater pools throughout the area and will always remember alighting from one to be told by a ranger that it had only just been opened after the wet season and them checking that there were no crocodiles! On asking how they did this they said they set a few traps and also went out at night and shone a light which would light up their eyes - it took us a while before we had any more swims in the area..........







Driving for hundreds of miles and seeing no sign of life in Western Australia and then swimming with massive whalesharks off Ningaloo Reef as well as other sharks, giant rays and turtles - magic. Coral Bay was delightful and we returned there a couple of time to swim in beautiful waters where small stingrays would come in really close to shore and it was here we met our good friends and fellow travellers from the UK, Sue and Jim who are similar nomads to ourselves - we later spent some time with them in Lanzarote and also met up with them in Winchester on our last visit. Driving for miles and then stopping at a deserted beach for a picnic became the norm - we remember sitting alone on a pure white beach known as Shell Beach because it is made up of countless tiny cockle shells, layered up to ten metres deep in places and stretching for over 120 kilometres - it blinded ones eyes.





The scary experience of breaking down in a storm on the Outer Barrier Reef in Queensland on board the Coral Princess only to successfully try again the following year. This time we were able to visit many paradise islands and snorkelled over the most amazingly colourful corals some looking like giant gemstones. On the first trip arising early in the morning and making it to the top of Cooks Lookout on Lizard Island, with the help of our friends Ken and Judy, and looking out over the reef where Captain Cook himself had stood to try and see a safe passage over the reef for the Endeavor. The ’wow’ factor of our close encounters with huge humpback whales which surrounded our boat off Fraser Island, breaching before our eyes and making the boat rock.





Being foot loose and fancy free whilst travelling around this huge country in a motorhome and encountering our first wild kangaroo, wallaby, koala, dingo, possum, echidna and numerous other animals and hundreds of colourful birds was very special. The delightful nights we spent in at Granite Gorge in the Atherton Tablelands with only rock wallabies for company, who joined us every night around our camp fire as soon as the sun went down will be with us for ever. Paddling down the river in the Daintree we saw brilliant coloured kingfishers swooping by and crocodiles floating like dead logs inches from our feet.........





Touring around Tasmania where the weather was wild but we manage to have a few days of sunshine on the lovely Bay of Fires and got to see plenty of tasmanian devils as well as pure white wallabies. It was disappointing though that we did not get to see Cradle Mountain as it was snowing so hard and the visibility was zero.





We will never forget the many friends we met and stayed with all over Australia including, Ros and her delightful family in Victoria who we still miss and of course Bronwyn and Alan who handed over their house and car keys to us whilst they set off on their own adventure. This is a lovely area of Australia and we were able to spend time in the Grampian Mountains and learn Aboriginal stories through rock art as well as explore the Great Ocean Road to see the 12 Apostles and numerous other scenic coastal resorts. We also spent time in the Mornington Penninsula as well as Wilson's Promontory. We particularly enjoyed Bright in all its breathtaking autumnal glory, with its close proximity to the Victorian Alps and delightful national parks it is a walking paradise. In South Australia we indulged in the delights of the Barossa Valley to yet again sample some delightful Australian wines as well as meandering down the flooded Murray River.





We will never forget having to ‘forage’ for basic food supplies on a scooter on Aitutaki in the Cook Islands balancing our purchases on the front whilst negotiating the pot holed roads. Doing our bit for conservation by kayaking out to the reef and spearing two large Crown of Thorn jellyfish which feed on coral and eventually destroy the coral reefs. Visiting paradise local islands including Honeymoon, Maina, Moturakau and One Foot, the latter boasting the smallest Post Office in the world. Two of the smaller islands were nesting sites for the stunning red and white tailed tropicbirds which we were lucky to see sitting on their nests. Akaiami Island with its vast lagoon, once a stopover for teal short solent flying boats travelling the renowned ‘Coral Route’ where the well-to-do of the ‘fifties’ like John Wayne and Cary Grant waited whilst planes were refuelled or for clear weather to continue their journey. Snorkelled over the famous Karoro shipwreck of the Alexandra which sunk on the reef, you could make out the skeleton of the boat in the clear visibility but did not particularly enjoy watching two large moray eels fighting just inches below our feet......Far below you could see giant clams the size of a large dog We later enjoyed visiting the Marine Research Station where they are reintroducing clams back into the ocean as well as other coral species. Meeting Piri Maao who was once Chief of a local tribe as well as a principal at the school who told us many stories about the islands and islanders. Keen to show us around he asked us to follow him on his scooter - he was 76 years old and still driving - us two in our 60s just managed to keep up with him as we followed him around the island visiting his local school as well as taking us into his home.





On the larger of the Cook Islands, Rarotonga (Raro) we were invited by a local minister to attend their Gospel Day Celebrations commemorating the arrival of Christianity to the islands with each of the six cook island churches taking to the stage in their colourful dress finalising in the whole congregation up on their feet. We watched colourful floats parade through the main town and joined in the fun of the Te Maeva Nui (Independence Day) listening to the beautiful gospel singing which echoes all around the islands with our new friends Jenny & Ray from New Zealand and Arab and Andrea from Perth.





Watching an elephant try to cross a busy road in Sri Lanka as well as a day later watching a tiny indian star tortoise doing the same thing - they both made it....... Seeing hundreds of elephants congregate in the tall grasses of the national parks and our safari vehicle breaking down in the middle of a large group crossing the track - while we waited for rescue we saw many mothers and young feeding all around us. Getting a glimpse of a leopard sunbathing on a rock overlooking our hotel - after searching all day for such a glimpse on a safari! Searching all morning to spot a blue whale on rough seas and then spotting one just before returning to shore - these really are the giants of the deep. In contrast the amazing architecture of the huge Buddhist temples, monasteries, stupas, and pagodas dotted all over the country and the small shrines around the coast dedicated to those who lost their lives in the horrific Tsunami which reached this country - these are all vivid memories.







In Costa Rica we walked up close to Arenal Volcano which only stopped erupting in 2010 but still emits the odd puff of smoke - this lovely country has the most consistently active volcanoes on Earth. Seeing a vast array of wildlife including sloth, howler and spider monkeys, coati, agouti, brocket deer, tayra and even the odd coyote as well as many crocodile (one with its young), cayman, lizard and snake. Some we have never seen before and many came up close to our cabin high up in the rainforest even eating off our picnic table. Walking in the cloud forests and watching an ‘Arribada’ on the Pacific coast where thousands of olive ridley turtles arrived on the beach all at the same time to lay their eggs and again a few days later watching hundreds of newly hatched green turtles emerging from their nest and darting for the sea on the Caribbean coast, this for me was the best.... ‘Oh’ may be not, as our first glimpse of a resplendent quetzal in the deep valley of San Gerardo de Dota was unforgettable. As well seeing over 200 other birds including macaw, toucan, trogan, mot mot, tanager, frigatebird, flycatcher, heron, jabiru, oriole, euphonia, honeycreeper, kiskadee, sparrow, woodpeckers, salators, parrot and colourful hummingbirds in this very small country - this is one place I would love to return to one day and as there are about 900 species of birds, I guess we have only just skimmed the surface!





We will remember our Indochina trip for the chaotic sights, sounds and smells that greeted you around every corner. In Vietnam we travelled through the heart of the country passing huge rice paddies and stopping in the delightful town of Hoi An, an architectural delight where the whole town is almost entirely made of wood, combining traditional Vietnamese designs with those from China and Japan, whose citizens settled to trade and built homes and shops. In one of these I managed to have a dress designed, made and delivered to our hotel within 24 hours and the workmanship was superb. We cruised on the mystic Halong Bay with its thousands of limestone karst before taking the sleeper train up into the mountains of Sapa where several ethnic minority groups such as H’mong, Dao (Yao), Giay, Pho Lu, and Tay live - here we enjoyed visiting schools and being invited into the modest homes of friendly local villagers - for us Vietnam will remain a cultural highlight.





Journeying into Laos, the saffron robed monks in Luang Prabang leaving their monasteries early in the morning and walking down the streets carrying their alms bowls in front of them was humbling. We will never forget the spirituality and friendliness of the people, particularly the children who gathered around us in the thatched mountain villages of the Lao countryside just happy to see you.





The charm of the old town of Siem Reap in Cambodia with Pub Street, where every tourist ends up at night, full of pubs, inexpensive restaurants, night markets, massage places, and even places where you can have fish eat the dead skin off the bottom of your feet! Contrasting with magnificent temples like the mighty Angkor Wat, the most famous one, Ta Prohm the romantic atmospheric one and the Bayon, there is something about those huge faces carved into the temple walls looking at you from every angle which is quite surreal. I particularly enjoyed going out on location within Angkor Archaeological Park with a local professional photographer who later arranged a private photographic session with some local monks at an isolated temple ruin. The mad chaotic streets and our many tuk tuk rides will stay with us for along time and even the memorable sadness surrounding Phnom Penh left its mark. A few days in Thailand before a delightful rest in the Maldives where all we did was eat, drink (got merry), read and even got to swim with whalesharks again finishing off our journey to Asia perfectly.





We are very lucky and have seen so much in the last three years and still have so much to see but overall our most treasured memories have been of meeting and making friends with some wonderful people all around the globe. We hope that you have all enjoyed our previous blogs and will continue to do so as we move into our fourth year of travel............see you in Africa...........



Happy travelling to you all


?Paul & Sheila

Silvernomads

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