Pennine Way 4. Oops and well done Ella (again).


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Europe » United Kingdom » England » West Yorkshire » Haworth
August 21st 2019
Published: August 21st 2019
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A couple of house keeping issues. We are in or near Stanbury and Ponden but they don’t rally register on many maps let alone travel websites.

And I don’t have a proof reader and Julie has pointed out a few errors post publication. Sorry. Anything that does make sense just make up yourself.

And great job Ella. Two people on the planet know that the ‘glorious twelfth’ is the official opening of the grouse season. Ella continues a rich tradition of taking out quiz questions and has continued where she left off. I think I dismissed her comment without sort of knowing so if it doesn’t post sorry. I’ve been chastened by Julie so I’ll never do it again.

On that note. We walked past a hidden direction marker this morning and overshot the path a bit. Obviously we went back and found the track and because all morning I was thinking ‘turn right, turn right at the Pennine Way post’ we obviously turned right. But right was wrong as we were walking back to where we already had been. It took about a km to realize we were on the right track but heading the wrong way. But that 1km turns into 2km before we back to square one. You can imagine who wasn’t happy.

Otherwise day 4 was all good. A range of walking environments. A little in the town, a little along the stream, too much through the fields (don’t mention that) and then on the moors and around the reservoirs. All have their pleasures and pains. The fields are soft and easy on the feet but the grass is wet and tests my boots. So far they’ve passed but it plays havoc with Julie’s boots. The treks around reservoirs are always flat and easy but the surf is hard and rocky. For me the ’heather highways’ are winners.

I mentioned on day 1 that not everyone completes this walk. It’s not easy, not terribly difficult either but it is long. Today we meet a 72 year old who looked a little weary but she has walked everyday and covered the same distance as us. Her partner who was significantly younger however lasted a day. We have heard of others who have resorted to bus or taxi service. Walkers here come in all shapes and sizes. I have encountered ill prepared families out of an hour or so right through to veteran walkers who look like they could and they have walked the moors night and day for ages. We met women walking from John O’Grots to Lands End, admittedly in stages but that a big effort then last night a chatted to a guy walking from Gibraltar to John O’Grots! That’s not a big effort, that’s crazy! All come with different attitudes too. It may depend on how much weight they carry in their packs. Some camp out so their packs must weigh quite a bit but when I think about it some of the fell runners who carry very little seem the most unfriendly. Usually they simply nod as they jog past.

Some random jottings to accompany/explain/justify some of the photos that were uploaded.

The skinny trail between stone fences were somewhat of a surprise. Less than a metre wide and really unkept they are a nightmare to walk. They were so overgrown that traversing them meant you got wet and worse still you couldn’t see your feet and on an uneven surface that means trouble. Fortunately we only came across 2 of about 50 m each. Unfortunately we had to go back through them as well. I can’t work out why they were built that way. It takes twice as many rocks, twice as much labour and twice the time yet you get a channel that can’t be maintained and one that’s tough to navigate.

No trig points today either. Most unusual. There were still significant landmarks along the way like Top Withins but I miss the trig points. There are a couple of shots of the ‘Bronte Cottage’ which is not the Bronte Cottage. Certainly we are in Bronte country and some see a certain bleakness in the moors that evokes the dark spirit of Heathcliff and Wuthering Heights although I don’t. The house draws Japanese tourists up from a nearby town on a pilgrimage despite the fact there’s a sign here saying that Bronte had nothing to do with the place. There’s even signage in Japanese.

We are well and truely in Yorkshire now and the accents are getting thicker although they are at least understandable still. Yorkshire puddings feature on all menus the only difference being some are described as giant which is rather a frightening thought. I did though this evening have a slow cooked lamb shank. Lamb in the UK has sort of been off limits but this meal was really good. Yes it came with peas but thankfully as a side along with some other veggies. Not great veggies, bit over cooked and steamed which alters their colour a bit I always think but the lamb and mash was surprisingly good. We eat well each evening and breakfast is usually good or better although fresh fruit and yoghurt has not come to Yorkshire yet. Even I have resorted to an English breakfast tomorrow. That coupled with a packed lunch sees us through the day quite comfortably.



Both ascent and descent figures are a bit lower tomorrow and that coupled with the fact that the distance should be in the low 20’s indicate another good day. If the forecast matches what’s delivered we should be all good.



Jumbled blog due to internet foibles.

See you tomorrow.


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22nd August 2019

Second comment
Robert, we're you referring to Alla when you wrote Ella? I knew you'd miss me! You definitely need an editor!!!! My advice-write your blog THEN drink cider!!!

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