Coast to Coast: Keld to Danby Wiske

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After breaking camp from our riverside site, we headed uphill for breakfast. Breakfast at Keld Green Cafe was a very sociable affair. Quinn, one of the owners set the smart speaker on Christy Moore. A pleasant surprise. As we ate there was a lovely conversation too. I think we were both equally reluctant to move on, but we both knew we had to. Big Cheerios from Quinn and Sall. It was 1045! If you're ever in Keld, it's definitely the spot for tea.

The first half of the day we walked along the river bank. I was delighted to get a brief view of a pied flycatcher. Now a tick for me, but lovely to see.

The village of Gunnersdale was bedecked in bunting fit for a coronation. A large union jack with a portrait of Charles on it fluttered by the tiny village green. It was as good a spot as any for lunch.

Our guide books differed here. Brendan took us uphill away from river and onto the moors for five miles before we arrived at The Orchard Campsite in Reeth. After pitching the tents we retired to The Black Bull for ac couple of much appreciated pints.

Next morning we set off early, shortly after eight o'clock. There was rain forecast and we wanted to try and stay ahead of it for as long as possible. There were only a few short climbs and the walking was pleasant. The rain just about held off. We were tempted to spend the night in Richmond, but decided to press on. In Bompton-on-Swale we checked into the Bunk Barn. It was a fatastic treat to get a proper pot of tea and some penguin buiscuits carried out to us on a tray before I pitched my tent near the trampolin in the little garden out back and Brendan settled into his dorm.

We had discovered that our arrival in Danby Wiske would coincide with the beer festival. Needless to say the thought of experimenting with a range of local brews put a spring in our step. The walking was not difficult. We were crossing the agricultural plain between the Pennines and the Yorkshire Moors. The public paths were diificult to find in some places. Many signs were tiny and some in hard to spot places. This is where Outdoor Active came into its own. It feels a little bit like cheating, but it definitely helps keep you on the path and saves a lot of wandering around trying to work out where you are. We even crossed a plouged field, but it was the correct path. Boots clabbered in mud.



We arrived at the campsite relatively early, we could hear the music from the festival in the nearby community hall. It was't long before we were in the thick of it. A friend of Brendan's from Darlington joined us for the early part of the evening. The craic was good, the beer delicious and tasty burgers. Later myself and Brendan found a good spot in front of the stage and got into the festival spirit. The duo playing traditional tunes were great and the headline act, No Direction, were real crowd pleasers. The night flew by as we worked our way through the various beers on offer.

One by one the taps ran dry, but fortunately there was just enough beer to keep everyone happy. Fortunately for us the campsite was only a few hundred metres away.

I've learned since that Wainwright was not particularly impressed by Danby Wiske. I would definitely disagree with him. The people were fantastically friendly and I can only imagine that there mus tbe a really nice atmosphere in the local pubs on a weekend night.

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