Walking in England - Exmoor – Watersmeet , Tuesday 1998 August 4


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August 4th 1998
Published: May 31st 2021
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Wild Exmoor ponyWild Exmoor ponyWild Exmoor pony

Indifferent to passers-by
We drove up to Exmoor, which is wide and almost flat. The ground cover is short with patches of low bracken and wild flowers, mostly heather and cowslip – purple and yellow again. There is also Cross-leaf Heath, with very small, very pink flowers.

The ground is boggy from all the rain yesterday, but this is apparently unusual. We have to watch our feet, which is difficult while taking in the beauty of the scene. The hills covered with bracken surrounded the heath, showing lovely contours and shades of green.

We were lucky enough to see wild Exmoor ponies. They were amongst the sheep that graze the moor. The ponies are stocky with particularly thick necks and distinctive green muzzles. Their coats are warm brown or dappled. One was grey-white. Their manes flounce in the wind. They don’t seem bothered by our walking by at a respectful distance.

At the eastern end of the moor, the land drops into the Doone Valley. Historians think this is where the real Doone family lived. Andrew did a credible job of extensively telling the story of Lorna Doone to Barbara, who hadn’t read it. I heard enough to remind me – each time when
Valley of the Doones Valley of the Doones Valley of the Doones

Fictional place turned real
I caught up after taking pictures.

The Doone Valley has a warm, sheltered, microclimate, so beeches and bushes grow near the stream. A popular bridle and walking path led us out, through woodland, to a farm house tea room. For the first time we encountered lots of other walkers, all entering from the more popular end, where we arrived for lunch.

After lunch we visited Oare Church, which claims to be the location of the fictional wedding during which Lorna Doone was shot. After visiting a pair of donkeys, we strolled through more wooded pathways and across a sheep farm. All the sheep ran away from Andrew and Barbara, which had them running toward me while I filmed. This field decanted us into a Lorna Doone shop where souvenirs could be bought – as if I don’t have enough with all my photography!

Jane picked up the guiding to lead us along the East Lyn River. This is a very civilized path from which no one could stray, but it was pretty. This led to the end of our walk! We took celebratory photos and headed back to the hotel for a much-needed shower. Andrew and Jane joined us for
East Lyn River East Lyn River East Lyn River

Dappled shade
dinner, after which we watched my video of the day.



View map of tour to date.


Additional photos below
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Brendan Common Brendan Common
Brendan Common

The colours of Exmoor
Wild Exmoor poniesWild Exmoor ponies
Wild Exmoor ponies

Free to roam on the moor
Crossed Leaf HeathCrossed Leaf Heath
Crossed Leaf Heath

Tiny glimmers of pinky-mauve
Badgeworthy WaterBadgeworthy Water
Badgeworthy Water

A stream that begs to be explored
Brach fungus Brach fungus
Brach fungus

Perfectly adapted, odd to the eye
Herd of sheepHerd of sheep
Herd of sheep

Tricked to face the photographer
Black lambBlack lamb
Black lamb

Naturally posed with a Scotch thistle
Oare ChurchOare Church
Oare Church

Lorna Doone shot at her wedding
Memorial plaques in Oare ChurchMemorial plaques in Oare Church
Memorial plaques in Oare Church

History and fiction co-habiting
Horses near Oare ChurchHorses near Oare Church
Horses near Oare Church

Beautiful pastoral scene
Watersmeet signWatersmeet sign
Watersmeet sign

Convergence of paths
East Lyn RiverEast Lyn River
East Lyn River

Gurgling water


31st May 2021

Lorna Doone...
One of my favorite books. I named my cat Lorna Doone. I visited Doone Valley and Oare church with my family in the 1990's.
2nd June 2021

Lorna Doone
Glad to revive good memories. Hmmmm, a cat named Lorna Doone!
31st May 2021

Shorn, sure
Been watching too much "Still Game" - I'm starting to pick up their local idiom-isms. Those sheep are cute, unlike the ones I saw on Shetland in early June - big masses of icky wool. And the brach fungus is odd, indeed. When you say "the end of our walk" do you mean The End of this tour?
2nd June 2021

Endings
Well ... the end of walking in Dorset, but not the end of this walking holiday.

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